mamba max pro problem drives me crazy...

[1979crawler]

Hi guys,
Iam facing a problem with my mamba max pro.I use it in a crawler set up with a brand-new tekin 13.5 turn sensored brushless motor with 12.5mm high torque rotor,brand new lrp 2s 65C li-po battery.So,whenever i try to overcome an obstacle with the brand-new sensor cable plugged in the car tries to overcome the obstacle in a very,very slow pace but the trigger is at almost half throttle.If i continue at the exact same time at full throttle the yellow and green leds are constantly on and the car stops.Having the trigger kept at full throttle if i lift the car on air it starts rolling very progressively in order to reach the full throttle speed (as it does),the yellow light goes off and the green led is know constantly on.If i disconnect the sensor wire and try to overcome an obstacle it is obviously glitcing at the very start of the throttle BUT as i continue pressing the throttle it overcomes the obstacle with extreme ease!!!I changed all the parameters using castle link such as deadband,punch control,max forward power,start power,smartsense brushless and sensor only mode but the problem is the same. Let me assure you that the battery is brand-new fully charged (8.4Volt).I tried some other 2s batteries,the same problem.Could someone tell me what is going on???
Thanks!!!

[sam63]

I have has this same exact problem. It's like it get stuck at a low throttle. I gave up on it and use it with a sensorless motor in a basher.

[Charlie-III]

From the description and this..... Castle Creations | FAQ: 1/10th Scale Products sounds like you're hitting LVC.
Granted, that usually means the ESC dies.

What rig?
What gearing?
Does either the ESC or motor get hot when running?
Are you steering when this happens?
If you're steering, what servo & do you have an external BEC? If you have an external BEC, is it direct to the servo or through the RX?
What connectors between the battery & the ESC?? If it's a Tamiya, that is likely an issue. Same if you're running Tamiya connectors to the motor.

I'm assuming both of you have calibrated the ESC to the radio?????

Just asking questions to rule out some issues.

[The Violator]

Do you have a BEC?

[1979crawler]

i have an external cc BEC programmed with castlelink at 7.4volts.it's connected to the ''B/C'' (battery control) of a futaba R603FS receiver and in the other end the (+),(-) are soldered to a deans connector along with the (+),(-) of the esc.the servo is a hitec HS-7950TH.the rig is a crawler king with 21/90 gearing.none of them get hot,actually they are dead cold all the time.i only use deans.when this happens if i try to steer the servo works perfect,no lack of voltage.the ESC is calibrated to the futaba 3pm-x apart from the fact that when in neutral (yellow led) it keeps flashing.i've tried ALL of the deadband values of the esc with castlelink but no luck.Steering and throttle EPA's are set to maximum.the LVC is set to 3.6volts per cell BUT the battery is fully charged and double checked.let me remind you that with the sensor cable unplugged except for the obvious glitcing at start then it climbs like hell!!!
thank you for your time guys but i desperately need your help!!!!!

[1979crawler]

...and the motor is connected to the ESC with castle 8mm bullet connectors.

[The Violator]

I wonder if it is a voltage issue. I have my esc set to 3 volt cut off. Maybe the load is causing the battery voltage to drop. Do you have a 3s lipo you could drop in and try it that way. Or maybe turn off the voltage cut off and give it a quick run to see if it is the low volt cut off. The only 2s battery I run are 6000mah. What size are your 2s batteries. Another thing with the MMP is I had a few funky issues with the newer firmwares. I rolled the mmp back to the first firmware and that fixed my issues.

[1979crawler]

I've installed the latest 3.52.10 firmware update.i have a turnigy 2s 6000mah.i'll run it without the LVC and see what happens.I don't have a 3s batt to test it.I'll give it a try today and let you know.

[SuperRoo]

The Futaba R603FS is a 6 volt receiver. Either turn down the voltage in your CCBEC or wire the servo directly to the CCBEC and power the receiver with the ESC.

Give it a try and see if the problem goes away.

[The Violator]

Originally Posted by SuperRoo

The Futaba R603FS is a 6 volt receiver. Either turn down the voltage in your CCBEC or wire the servo directly to the CCBEC and power the receiver with the ESC.

Negative. I run 9 volts through mine without issue.

[JeremyH]

Are you SURE that the wires from the ESC are connected to the appropriate tabs on the motor (A-A, B-B and C-C)???

[1979crawler]

At first thank you all for your interest!!!
i read the futaba manual and at the B/C input it simply delivers exactly what it gets as far as voltage is concerned.I checked with a multimeter the servo three pin connection,7.4volts exactly.
Yes Jeremy H, just checked the cables A of motor to A of speedo etc.
I've also e-mailed castle.I clarified them i run it in a crawler set up so the sensor cable is necessary.The continously on green and yellow leds at full throttle doesn't seem to help them understand what's wrong.They suggested to run a higher turns motor e.g. 21.5T.What i've already observed is that even with the existing 13.5T tekin redline without the damn sensor cable it has the torque for even a standing backflip.So what's the point for even more torque?

[tech126]

I had the same problem.

Try and recalibrate your receiver to the esc..

[AsILayDying]

It has nothing to do with the turn of motor. I have run a 10.5t censored 17.5t and 21.5t all censored and ran fine on my MMP. Sounds like a calibration issue.... maybe check your throttle trim and make sure its zero and recalibrate. Good luck

[The Violator]

Originally Posted by AsILayDying

It has nothing to do with the turn of motor. I have run a 10.5t censored 17.5t and 21.5t all censored and ran fine on my MMP. Sounds like a calibration issue.... maybe check your throttle trim and make sure its zero and recalibrate. Good luck

As I understand it the issue goes away once the sensor is unhooked. A calibration issue should stick around with or without the sensor. ( I would still roll the firmware back to the first one available)

It really could be as simple as a bad motor ( bad wind or sensor) or just a bad esc or sensor wire. A second esc or motor would help diagnosing it. Maybe try the motor on a friends esc to see if the sensor issue follows,or find another motor to try on your rig.

[1979crawler]

I tried today the previous version of firmware,no luck.I've also recalibrated esc to radio with throttle trim to zero,set LVC to off for a testrun,the same shit.Iam so frustrated,i just can't believe it's still happening!I'll try to find a 3s batt and later on today d/load the first version of the mmp and run it.

[Twisted Nuts]

Do you have any Expo adjustment on your radio? Any throttle or brake curve in the MMP?
change the sensor harness to a "sheilded" Novak harness. What is your start power set to?
Is the mmp set to "smartsense" or "sensored only"?
Ive personally only had problems from redline motors, I switched to novak silvercan motors and I couldnt be more satisfied! Ive got two scalers and both are smooth as silk.

Sent from my not so Smart S3 LTE smartphone

[hbj069]

Have you tried reversing the throttle in your radio? After reversing set your endpoint a little lower on your radio and be sure to do a recalibration. If this dont help then you have probably lost part of the esc. I just went through this a couple weeks ago because I refused to believe a brand new esc was bad.

[RusT808]

I had a similar problem, start up next to a curb and not enough power to climb it.(Pulling full throttle) Someone suggested using a screwdriver to push the sensor plug. I thought I did but, with the screwdriver, it went in a little bit more. Now it works perfectly.

Had the exact MMP/13.5 set up. Worth a try.

[JohnRobHolmes]

What is the physical timing on the motor? it should be set to zero.