27T/35T/45T/55T motors

[RootBreaker]

Ok so since im new to this.. i will eventually learn and most likely only by buying all of them...

but when you fine tune after getting a motor... you will only get so much..

so example... when i had a 27t axial motor ($9) i could move my stock ax10 with non weighted stock 2.2's just fine.. had some speed too.. could spin em easily...

then i got panther plowboy tires on jconcepts weighted wheels... and wow.. i lost all movement...
searching high and low people say 35T gives good wheel speed and crawling...
so i went 55T and decided if that is just really too slow I could gear up...

so i went with the 55T, 15T pinion and 87T spur... to a 20T pinion..
motor did not get warm to the touch.. but didnt gain much at all.. and on crawling i think it did worse.... couldnt crawl as good...

so couldnt you do simply just gear up or down with a high turn motor?

so looking at the gear chart...i can see there is not much difference in turns to keep the same gear ratio.... with that...

can you compare turns in motors kind of the same way? i know there are so many variables.... but someone with knowledge could they?

im wondering if i should go with a 45T motor or 35T motor? I want to be geared down for crawling.. but wouldnt mind some speed...

2 speed trans and keep the 55t?

i am all over the place with that bu that just shows you im lost...

mind you the 55t on 3s is slow but can be doable...

since i do want to make a crawler eventually.. i will still need more motors so maybe buy all of them and figure that out?????

[EeePee]

You're definitely all over the place there.

Instead of buying all kinds of motors but one very good 35 turn handwound motor from both Br00d and Holmes. Between the two of them you can get any kind of flavor of 35 turn. They both offer more options than most people can comprehend so talking with them will be advantageous to you.

I've dyno'd a handful of 35 turn motors and no two were alike between the different types. One might have been stronger at low rpm, the other stronger at high rpm. Or in the middle.

[Dostradamas]

I am wondering the same things.
I am running my wraith on a 55t w 19p & 87 spur.
I had tried the axial 27t & the stock 20t.
The 20 was too fast & too low on torque & sadly I overgeared the 27 & it didn't last long enough to really be able to tell.
The 55 on 2s has loads of torque & almost enough speed with the 19/87.
I am looking to go up to 3s & see if that is enough wheel speed.
If not then I will jump to the 35t & hope its the one. I hear almost no talk of the 45's & @ the comp I went to this weekend I got some interesting eyebrowed looks when I said I was running a 55?
I think we will just have to try & see for ourselves, which will take alot of time cause my budget is very limited for toys.
I will wait & see & keep you posted with anything I learn that may help.

[EeePee]

Originally Posted by Dostradamas

I got some interesting eyebrowed looks when I said I was running a 55?

Because 55 turns are from the first few years of crawling, like 2004 to about late 2005. Then Integy offered a 35, 45, and 65 turn motor. I bought one of each. I have a nice collection of about ten 35 turn motors now and one more almost new 55 turn, but just because it was a rare cool one from Fantom. Otherwise, no newer 45, 55, or 65 turn motors.

[Dostradamas]

My hope is to get a 35T Holmes with some extra brushes & springs & get a year or 2 out of it. I can't afford a collection like that.
I got the Novak 55T from my lhs for 15bucks used. If it would have been a 35 or 45 I would have that. If you ever feel like you just have too many motors laying around I would gladly give them a home.

[EeePee]

Originally Posted by Dostradamas

My hope is to get a 35T Holmes with some extra brushes & springs & get a year or 2 out of it.

You're better off not getting extra brushes and springs and sending the motor to John for a periodic comm cut and let him change the brushes then. Like a figurative oil change. It's best for the motor.

[RootBreaker]

Originally Posted by EeePee

You're better off not getting extra brushes and springs and sending the motor to John for a periodic comm cut and let him change the brushes then. Like a figurative oil change. It's best for the motor.

now see this is what confuses me... i do not comp crawl so im that budget crawler..backyard fun guy...

im a redneck that will pull a motor out of the junkyard and drop it in to go to the races... vs a fresh crate motor....

so this confuses me even more...
so you say 35turns are all over the place.. so wow.. buying a 35t motor then burning it out.. you cant buy another to replace it and get the same results....

well i traded some stuff for the 55t so it didnt cost me much... and it isnt a loss as it works and i can run it...

i have to get the $ up for a brushless setup for my foff b4 i worry about a nice 35t then.... 55t runs and is on 3s so cant complain... it is very slow... hah... but works...

more to come i guess

[EeePee]

Originally Posted by RootBreaker

im a redneck that will pull a motor out of the junkyard and drop it in to go to the races... vs a fresh crate motor....

so this confuses me even more...
so you say 35turns are all over the place.. so wow.. buying a 35t motor then burning it out.. you cant buy another to replace it and get the same results...

I bought a junkyard motor for a 94 Honda and went racing with it, I understand. It wasn't the best, but it worked.

35 turn motors that are built with slightly different features will have slightly different characteristics from one another. They're not all over the place, just slightly different. You can buy another of the same construction techniques and numbers or parameters/features and expect nearly identical results.

[Charlie-III]

In general, I would say to go to a 35T brushed motor, gear or volt to expatiations.

Yes, there is a difference between a "crap non-rebuildable" 35T motor to a "machine-wound" 35T motor to a "killer hand-wound" 35T motor.

If you start with a decent motor can (Holmes or Br00d) you can always just swap in a good hand-wound armature.

If you ask nicely, a local may let you try a better motor...hint....hint....!



Come out to a GSRCRC comp or GTG, give us a heads up and I'm sure we can cover you on a motor trial.

[Dostradamas]

Originally Posted by Charlie-III

In general, I would say to go to a 35T brushed motor, gear or volt to expatiations.

Yes, there is a difference between a "crap non-rebuildable" 35T motor to a "machine-wound" 35T motor to a "killer hand-wound" 35T motor.

If you start with a decent motor can (Holmes or Br00d) you can always just swap in a good hand-wound armature.

If you ask nicely, a local may let you try a better motor...hint....hint....!



Come out to a GSRCRC comp or GTG, give us a heads up and I'm sure we can cover you on a motor trial.

Makes sense.
Thanks
Next time I am 3000 miles east with my truck I will look you up.

[RootBreaker]

Originally Posted by Dostradamas

Makes sense.
Thanks
Next time I am 3000 miles east with my truck I will look you up.

ill pick u up on the way..

im in south nJ outside of philly... in williamstown (08094) but work up in Lawrenceville so what is a few more miles!!!!!!!!!!

ill have to definitely go see ya guys.. even to just see some comps.. i have been searching for down here and i cant find anyone...

[RootBreaker]

Originally Posted by Charlie-III

In general, I would say to go to a 35T brushed motor, gear or volt to expatiations.

Yes, there is a difference between a "crap non-rebuildable" 35T motor to a "machine-wound" 35T motor to a "killer hand-wound" 35T motor.

If you start with a decent motor can (Holmes or Br00d) you can always just swap in a good hand-wound armature.

If you ask nicely, a local may let you try a better motor...hint....hint....!



Come out to a GSRCRC comp or GTG, give us a heads up and I'm sure we can cover you on a motor trial.

i just did a looksie... WOW 145 miles to do a motor test!!!! mehhh not bad..

i hear ya.. ill definitely run this 55t for now... as it is fun...
and get my foff done ... then back pedal to a hand wound 35t...

Originally Posted by Dostradamas

Makes sense.
Thanks
Next time I am 3000 miles east with my truck I will look you up.

ill pick u up on the way..

im in south nJ outside of philly... in williamstown (08094) but work up in Lawrenceville so what is a few more miles!!!!!!!!!!

ill have to definitely go see ya guys.. even to just see some comps.. i have been searching for down here and i cant find anyone...

[Charlie-III]

HAHAHAHAHA....LMAO......there are others from GSRCRC closer to you than I am.

If we meet up at a comp or GTG, no problem.

BTW, I was just in the Philly area for work, may be SE of Trenton in the next week or so.....just saying.

Most GSRCRC comps are closer to you than to me.

[RootBreaker]

i went to gsrcrc.com and that site is dead.. i dont see much here for it.. ill have to dig some more.. thanks!

[Olle P]

Originally Posted by RootBreaker

... so couldnt you do simply just gear up or down with a high turn motor?
can you compare turns in motors kind of the same way? i know there are so many variables.... but someone with knowledge could they?

These questions haven't been properly answered.

To start with the motor turns:
You can compare different turns, and it's even quite accurate as long as you stick to the cheap stuff...
- More turns means more torque and efficiency but less power and Kv.
- Hand wound quality motors generally have "more of everything" compared to cheap motors with same number of turns.

That answers the other question: Gearing.
To get (high) wheel speed you need power. High turn motors provide less power and therefore a lower top speed. They should be used with a larger pinion than a low turn motor though, so the vehicle top speed difference is less than the difference in motor Kv rating.
Crawlers more frequently operate at high torque, where the low efficiency of low turn motors make them run hot (and require bigger batteries).