using castle link w/axial AE-2

[Gate Crasher]

Using the Castle link, how can I soften the application of drag brake . Testing on the carpet the scx10 dingo w/battery forward does nosewheelies when chopping the throttle. brake set at 50%, drag brake set at 100%, and control reaction set at 1 second.

[ik632]

Only thing I found was to reduce the drag brake percentage lower than 100%. You could try lowering the brake power further. Are you running crawler mode or double pump reverse? If it's crawler mode, you'll pretty much get the brakes slammed when you let off the throttle.

The thing that helped me the most was just to get the hang of letting off the throttle slower and smoother because it feels like it would gradually apply brake as you got closer to neutral.

[Devil Inc]

What turn motor are you running? Typically you can get away with less drag brake on say 55t than 27t. I usually dial the drag brake down to 50% or less, especially if there will be a less experienced driver driving it.

[Gate Crasher]

Originally Posted by ik632

Only thing I found was to reduce the drag brake percentage lower than 100%. You could try lowering the brake power further. Are you running crawler mode or double pump reverse? If it's crawler mode, you'll pretty much get the brakes slammed when you let off the throttle.
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Originally Posted by Devil Inc

What turn motor are you running? Typically you can get away with less drag brake on say 55t than 27t.

Thanks guys... So...ik632: running crawler mode. Devil Inc: running stock axial 27T. Reconnected link and set back to factory default. Made a test ramp on the patio. Still get nose wheelies but truck won't stay put on ramp climbing fwd or rev. I'll keep playing with it. Thanks again.

[TrickyRicky]

Not trying to steal this thread but I have two ae2 and one has instant rev the other double tap rev. Can this setting be changed with out the Castle link?

[ik632]

@Tricky - yeah, those are just settings. Best to connect to programmer and reset to defaults then go from there.

@Dave - it's going to be tough. The 27 doesn't have a lot of drag brake to begin with. The issue is that if you are going to have enough brake to keep it on the inclined board from sliding down you're going to need to keep the brakes set pretty strong. With enough brake to keep it from sliding you're going to get nose wheelies if you let off the throttle too fast. This is where finger control really matters. When I was running a high turn motor in my Wraith with crawler mode, I had to learn how to let off the throttle slower so it wouldn't nose wheelie.

Since you are in crawler mode, the ESC doesn't really do drag brake. When you pull the throttle you get forward, in neutral you get whatever brake setting you did, and reverse is reverse. The brake power (on my sidewinders) is really for when you run double pump reverse. In those cases you may have drag brake set so when you let off the throttle and into neutral it's applying some brake. Then, when you push reverse the first time it gives you brake equivalent to what you had set the power for. Say you set 50% brake power, when you push all the way reverse the first time, you get 50% of the max braking power.

I'm not certain, but I think the drag brake setting may override the brake power setting. I do remember trying different settings for that while in crawl mode and it didn't seem to do much on my truck.

Ideally for me, I'd love to see a crawler mode where centered is 100% brake and as you ease into forward or reverse, you come off the brake and start moving forward/back. That way you can be going fast for example, and then release to about 10% forward throttle and have it actually applying brakes before you get to neutral and it slams the brakes on.

[ik632]

Ok, moral of that long post is, you'll need to find a happy medium between how much brake you want and can live with and finger control to keep from flipping