Team Brood Motor Tech Thread

[EddieO]

Starting this thread to not only offer tech support for the motors we produce, but to also show off some of the trick stuff coming out of the brood dungeon.

A few quick rules here, don't ask for pricing and ordering info. Stick to PM or email regarding anything like that. The purpose of this thread is to talk motor tech and show off motor porn!

Up First, a new pair of Stubbys I just built for Almighty Malach

These motors feature

Dual FB9 Magnets
35t HHK-SR Armature, epoxy balanced
Lightweight endbell parts, including new alloy timing ring.
Removed the Brushhood Heatsinks
Ceramic Bearings
Extra Firm Team Springs
729 Standup brushes




Later EddieO

[Trubble]

Originally Posted by EddieO

The purpose of this thread is to .......... show off motor porn!

Mmmmmnokay.

Take it all in, boys.



Hands down, the BEST motor I ever bought!

My Twister Annihilator (9 turn drag motor) had more power, but with absolute zero control. The Apocalypse is butter-smooth and can crawl at a pace that you'd swear was in slow motion. Explosive strength when fed a quick stab of the throttle, though.



Alright, since you seem eager to talk about techy type stuff, what's your thought on double, triple, and quad winds that gained so much popularity 'back in the day'? Think my Slashes'd be better off with 19 turn triples, or just go with the HHK option?



(I'll save the discussion on milled brushes for later, that one could get messy.)

[EddieO]

I've done a few doubles for limited editions, but they are not a regular thing. They are NOT fun to wind....and at this point a big wire is just as effective and in some cases more Circular Mills. A triple or quad wind would make for more CM possibly, but would be even more difficult to wind. Back in the day, the 2/3/4/5 winds would be done on arms with less than 25 winds or so, most would be sub 20. Keeping a nice pattern on a 35t would not be easy with 4 strands of wire. I think the biggest advantage of them would be weight, which would slow down the arm during initial start up, but there are other ways to accomplish that. Cost would be the other big factor.......

So while we could make them, I don't think they would do much more than an HHK already does...so they will stick to LE stuff when I get the urge...

Brush cuts are always fun....I've messed with them some in crawling, but keep going back to full face.

Later EddieO

[EddieO]

Here is another pair of Stubby motors, but based on the conflux can. Not many of these out there, but hopefully soon the conflux will be in full production.

These went to none other than the krawlfreak himself, Jermey Toney.

These motors featured

35t Type HHK-SR Epoxy balanced with VPI epoxy on the windings.
Lightweight Endbell parts including the new Alloy Timing Ring
Brushhood Heatsinks removed
Team EXtra Firm Springs with Spring Insulation
Laydown Team Brushes
Dual FB12 Magnets with custom ground tips for smoother start up
Ceramic Bearings

Weight 127.10 grams and 127.00 grams

A bunch of old school and new school tricks were used in the building of these motors....those remain secret still:P





Later EddieO

[ax10]

I don't know alot about motors, is there some sort of trade-off with a "stubby"? Such as weaker drag brake or anything like that?

[EddieO]

Drag brake stays pretty much the same from my testing as the magnet to arm ratio is the same as before. Reducing the arm length changes the powerband of the motor, while decreasing efficiency. I think they can stall out easier, but its not too bad as they have been run in numerous supers, without issues. They certainly don't lack power, as they have toasted gears and axles before. The biggest issue holding the Stubbys back is cost.....they are not cheap to produce, which has led to not many being sold.

Later EddieO

[dglewis89]

I have a tech question. I got one of your motors, the one with the hot chick on it in a 35t. It let out some smoke the first time I used it, it still worked but I didn't want to mess anything else up. I've not been using, would it be ok to still use? Is that huge of a problem if it smoked a little?

I'm coming from the world of brushless so I'm mostly lost when it comes to brushed stuff.

[EddieO]

It's possible something got on the comm and it burned off quickly....if it was still working normally, I would not worry to much. If it stops working or you see performance loss, then it may need to be looked at. Sounds like an Intensity Machine wound....

Later EddieO

[ROWDY RACING]

Originally Posted by ax10

I don't know alot about motors, is there some sort of trade-off with a "stubby"? Such as weaker drag brake or anything like that?

Originally Posted by EddieO

Drag brake stays pretty much the same from my testing as the magnet to arm ratio is the same as before. Reducing the arm length changes the powerband of the motor, while decreasing efficiency. I think they can stall out easier, but its not too bad as they have been run in numerous supers, without issues. They certainly don't lack power, as they have toasted gears and axles before. The biggest issue holding the Stubbys back is cost.....they are not cheap to produce, which has led to not many being sold.

Later EddieO

The drag break on my Conflux Stubby's is great, I went up from the 30t arms I was running to 35t with the Stubby's to get some of the torque back that may have been lost with the shorter arms (even though I don't think they lost a measurable amount regaurding stalling them out). These motors are great and I don't know if I will ever run a standard length motor again!

[Trubble]

Originally Posted by EddieO

Do I spy lay-down brushes?

I've only ever used stand-ups, never had lay-downs. Is there a noticeable difference in feel between two identical motors? (one w/ each style of brush)

[EddieO]

Laydowns will make more power, but are a tad less efficient. The additional power comes in the form of RPM with a slight loss in torque. On most motors I prefer them, just depends on lots of the other variables. They are standard on the Creep and Apocalypse motors....there is a bit of debate about how they effect drag brake, but I don't believe one has any advantage over the other really.

One big advantage is there is a LOT more compounds still around to work with in a laydown. Standups were only used on mods really, so a lot less compounds were made and still around.

Later EddieO

[TedBull]

The Stubby's are Awesome Eddie. I spy insulated springs, Thats a trick from your slot car days right?

[EddieO]

Big Jim actually showed me it long ago, as all old Checkpoints had it. I'll admit didn't see the point in it, but after some testing it does help. It prevents the spring from moving current through it, which generates heat, which can fatigue the springs, causing the tension to change.......wish I would of used it in the racing days.

Later EddieO

[dglewis89]

Originally Posted by EddieO

It's possible something got on the comm and it burned off quickly....if it was still working normally, I would not worry to much. If it stops working or you see performance loss, then it may need to be looked at. Sounds like an Intensity Machine wound....

Later EddieO

So I fired it up on the bench and the instant I gave it throttle it smoked. I figured what the hell and kept going, inside the can got glowing orange for a second and then it shot out some burned crap.

After that it smoothed out a bit and didn't smoke or glow orange, but it sounds kinda rough, like something is rubbing or catching. I put a tiny drop of oil on the bearing and it helped a bit, but it's not as smooth as the first time I drove with it. I'll throw it in my rig and just run it I guess, see what happens

And thanks for the reply

[TedBull]

Sounds like it had some kind of debris in it.

[igbandy]

Originally Posted by EddieO

Big Jim actually showed me it long ago, as all old Checkpoints had it. I'll admit didn't see the point in it, but after some testing it does help. It prevents the spring from moving current through it, which generates heat, which can fatigue the springs, causing the tension to change.......wish I would of used it in the racing days.

Later EddieO

I will try that out next time when I rebuild a motor for myself. What did you use for the insulation, Eddie?

[EddieO]

You can just use small shrink tubing to do it....

Later EddieO

[TrickyRicky]

This thread is awesome I build all my own and my buddies motors and love the tech. Like the insulation on the spring It's all the small stuff that adds up to make a great motor Any thoughts on using p94 brushes? I am using some now on a 35 and 55 turn. Seemed to make a bigger difference on the 35 turn. Gave it more punch and rpm. Dug through four box's of motors from back in the day to find those brushes Don't think I have anymore.

[EddieO]

P94 brushes work and work good. Problem is, retrofitting them onto current endbells is not easy...and they weigh more. I've got tons of p94 brushes in all types of compounds, so I can do some trick stuff with them. When the Conflux hits, p94 brushes will be an option until I run out of hoods.

Later EddieO

[tbacon38]

Hey Eddie i have been looking at your motors alot, but im not to good at picking all the different options, im running a moa bully that is going to weigh around 5 pounds when im done with it, right now im running 35t integy motors that I had laying around on 4s, they do good but i want more wheel speed and still be able to crawl i know its very hard to get the best of both worlds but could you suggest a motor for my application, i was running some 19t motors and loved the wheel speed but not the heat they produce, any help would be greatly appreciated.