HH BR-XL and Torque Expert 45t Stalling out

[meinthe73]

Hello,

I am in need of advice. I have a 9lb Wraith with a hitec 7955 running off HH BR-XL the with no bec , Torquemaster Expert 45t 87/14 gearing, tsl/ mayhem monsters 2.2, stock trans and drive shafts running on a Venom 3s. Keep in mind the electronics are like new only 6 hours run time. I noticed on my second trip my rig would stall out when it was in a bind and get really hot. So i took apart the motor cleaned it and went out a thrid time and the same thing happend.

Some off my crawler buddies were saying the interal bec didnt have enough juice to power the motor and servo under binding situations and suggested buying a BEC.

I just would like some insite on what i can change, I dont mind buying a bec, infact i had one but it bunt up couple months ago on my ae-2.

I do realize that motors have limits and can only produce so much torque, So I went ahead and bought a Torquemaster pro 45t hand wound thinking It would help out. And this is not a bash against HH obviously I purchases 3 products from them, I just want to see if there is anything else I am missing.

Thanks

Sorry for the long story, I just wanted to give the best info so I have recieve the best Advise.

[Charlie-III]

The 7955 is pushing the limits on a lot of internal ESC BEC's, you should be fine with the BR-XL though.

The internal ESC BEC does NOT power the motor, only the RX and maybe the servo.
If the whole rig shuts down (no throttle & no steering), check the battery, battery connections, etc.

If just throttle shuts down, what battery settings is the ESC set for??

If you're running a low mah pack, you NEED an high "C" rating, if you're running a 3000mah+ pack, you can get away with a lower "C" rating as the capacity (mah) makes up for it.

Any 45T motor is hard to overgear, but it's always possible.

[meinthe73]

Originally Posted by Charlie-III

The 7955 is pushing the limits on a lot of internal ESC BEC's, you should be fine with the BR-XL though.

The internal ESC BEC does NOT power the motor, only the RX and maybe the servo.
If the whole rig shuts down (no throttle & no steering), check the battery, battery connections, etc.

If just throttle shuts down, what battery settings is the ESC set for??

If you're running a low mah pack, you NEED an high "C" rating, if you're running a 3000mah+ pack, you can get away with a lower "C" rating as the capacity (mah) makes up for it.

Any 45T motor is hard to overgear, but it's always possible.

Thank You for getting the BEC out the way.

Its just the trottle, it will stall out. Ill hear it recieve power but it wont do anything when its in a bind.

My battery is a venom 3s 5000 35c

Thanks

[Charlie-III]

You may be hitting the LVC (low voltage cutoff) on the ESC...thus the RX/steering still work, but the ESC shuts down.

A bad connection (like running a Tamiya pack connector) or low power packs (low mah & low "C") can drop out the ESC.

A 3500mah with 35C should be very good for your application. What is your LVC (in the ESC) set to?
What pack to ESC connectors are you running?

[meinthe73]

Is the lvc something that will turn on and off instantly, example I'm going forward toward a obstacle and get in a bind and it stalls out, i reverse and it back right out like its fine. I try it again and same thing

I'm running dean plugs on the 3s lipo 5000 mah 35c. My lvc is on auto cut off

[Charlie-III]

Originally Posted by meinthe73

Is the LVC something that will turn on and off instantly, example I'm going forward toward a obstacle and get in a bind and it stalls out, I reverse and it backs right out like its fine. I try it again and same thing.

I'm running Deans plugs on the 3S LiPO 5000 mah 35c. My LVC is on auto cut off

Yes, when you hit the programmed LVC, it shuts down the ESC (the biggest power draw).
There may be a slight delay for the ESC to reboot, sorta depends on the ESC.

[Jus]

How bad of a bind are we talking?

You've got a 45T handwound motor on 3s geared 87/14 that is a recipe for awesome torque right there. That thing should flip itself inside out and rip the tire off the rim in a bind.

The motor gets hot? What about the battery and esc?

[meinthe73]

Originally Posted by Charlie-III

Yes, when you hit the programmed LVC, it shuts down the ESC (the biggest power draw).
There may be a slight delay for the ESC to reboot, sorta depends on the ESC.

Should I tak the LVC off?

Originally Posted by Jus

How bad of a bind are we talking?

You've got a 45T handwound motor on 3s geared 87/14 that is a recipe for awesome torque right there. That thing should flip itself inside out and rip the tire off the rim in a bind.

The motor gets hot? What about the battery and esc?

Just situations when your crawling like nothing extreme

The 45t that is stalling is the expert which is machine wound and I ordered the 45t pro that is hand wound.

Only the motor gets hott

[Erbing]

I was running almost the same setup in my wraith, brxl,hh 35t, 7955 without a bec for over a year and nothing ever happened. no brownout or stalling when in a bind....must be my luck.

[SilmarilS]

There's something wrong here if your batt heats-up!

I use a couple of 5000mAh 25C and 30C in my crawler (5lb modded LNC) without any problem.
I also use the same packs in a HPI Savage XS flux that eats the batteries in 20 minutes with an Amp draw of 56 Amps (measured)
The batts stay cool even when the cables got hot!

In my LNC, I got a 35T TorqueMaster Pro and it's impossible to stall. I just stripped a plastic wheel hex in a hard bind!
And this combo won't pull more than 15-16 Amps with a big pinion.

[meinthe73]

Originally Posted by SilmarilS

There's something wrong here if your batt heats-up!

I use a couple of 5000mAh 25C and 30C in my crawler (5lb modded LNC) without any problem.
I also use the same packs in a HPI Savage XS flux that eats the batteries in 20 minutes with an Amp draw of 56 Amps (measured)
The batts stay cool even when the cables got hot!

In my LNC, I got a 35T TorqueMaster Pro and it's impossible to stall. I just stripped a plastic wheel hex in a hard bind!
And this combo won't pull more than 15-16 Amps with a big pinion.

Sorry that was a typo, I meant the motor. I just edited it.

[tedo]

I would also look into the motor.

Your brushes may be worn, and comm may be scuffed up. I had the same problem with my HH 21T. It would stall out for a couple seconds (usually in a bind), then start working again. Put my 27T back in and worked perfectly. Turned out my brushes and comm were in need of a refresh.

I don't know just take a look.

[tedo]

I would also look into the motor.

Your brushes may be worn, and comm may be scuffed up. I had the same problem with my HH 21T. It would stall out for a couple seconds (usually in a bind), then start working again. Put my 27T back in and worked perfectly. Turned out my brushes and comm were in need of a refresh.

I don't know just take a look.

[Charlie-III]

Originally Posted by tedo

I would also look into the motor.

Your brushes may be worn, and comm may be scuffed up. I had the same problem with my HH 21T. It would stall out for a couple seconds (usually in a bind), then start working again. Put my 27T back in and worked perfectly. Turned out my brushes and comm were in need of a refresh.

I don't know just take a look.

+1, a quick look at the brushes (do they move freely in the brush hood, is there spring slot room or is the spring bottomed out?) to see if they are OK.
Unless you run in sand/dust or lots of water, you should get many packs through before needing new brushes.
Also check the pinion/spur gear mesh, too tight can heat up the motor.

I run 3S LiPO and 35T motors and run the risk of breaking things before the motor wants to give up.