Crawler still glitches with BEC

[scalecrawler18]

Hello,
This is my first post and first scale crawler and Im in desperate need of some advice!
Ive been trolling this site for a while now and after much frustration with constant glitches with my servos and ESC I have bought the 10amp CC BEC.
To my dismay after installing the CC BEC on my Tamiya HL Hilux I was still getting constant glitches under full throttle, the ESC would cut in and out and the servos were all locked. All controls had to be brought back to neutral before any inputs could be made. I then tried another battery and this full throttle problem went away. So I thought great! It was just a dead battery.
After running the truck for a couple minutes I started to get frequent glitches and stalls from the ESC and servos (even at half throttle) with a different battery pack.

The last battery I ran with the best results was a 1900 nimh 7.2V. Right now my set up is a stock 540 motor, 2 standard hitec servos, and a tp 946r winch with heyok 4amp which controller. I am running a novak xrs ESC, and have a hitec laser 6 transmitter and receiver. I will be upgrading to a hitec 645mg steering servo and will use my current steering servo and another 645mg to power a snowplow I have planned for my high lift. I will also eventually be adding heyok's lighting system with ~16 LEDs.

I was told I might need a battery with a higher C rating, but I cant seem to find any C ratings for nimh batteries. I also haven't read anywhere about a C rating affecting the BEC and electronics, so I'm not sure if that is the source of my problem or not.

Can anyone tell me why I am still getting glitches after I've installed an external BEC? As far as I know I've done everything that has been talked about in this forum to get a nice capable working scale crawler truck, but Im still having problems running the servos and motor I have and I still want to install 2 more high torque servos and LED's.

Thanks for any input as Im at a complete loss and feel waaaaaay over my head with this electronic stuff!

Ryan

[tdevilman2009]

how do u have it wired did u pull the red wire from the esc if not that could b ur glitch as for the c rating that is for lipo i havent seen or heard of a nimh that has one might just b pullin to much of a load for the nimh batts also if ur reciver has a long antae wire keep it away from other components i have done that in the past b for i went to 2.4 setup.i had the glitch in my wraith an it went away when i installed the cc bec ste min to 6.4 or so volts an bam prob solved do u have the castle link to program the bec might just need to program it hope this helps some

[scalecrawler18]

Thanks for the reply! Any help is great as I know very little about this side of the hobby!
I wired it up correctly, its spliced with the esc connecting to my battery and is also plugged into my receiver. Yes the red wire from the esc to the receiver is cut.
I do have a long antena wire and will try keeping it away from the other electronics, but I don't think this is the answer to all my problems.
What are the advantages of 2.4? My lhs said something about it costing ~$200 for a 6 channel.
No I do not have a castle setting program, is this how you set the BEC to higher amp out put? I think the default is 5.1 amp which should still be enough to run the truck the way I have it set up now and in the future with 2 more high torque servos. I really want to try and make it work with what I have before I do any more upgrading.

Is there anything else I should try or check or maybe I'm just not thinking of? Everyone says "hook up a BEC and all glitches are solved", but they are still frequent and far from solved!

Thanks
Ryan

[Ryan87zuk]

You can get the castle link for pc or you can get their field programing card to make adj on the go. Here is some simple things to check. Transmitter batteries fresh? Does the receiver antenna have a good connection, not loose? Try to keep the receiver as far away from the esc and motor as possible. Does the motor have diodes soldered to the tabs? These are a must IMO. Did you try re calibrating the esc? I'm assuming that the radio system is AM? Check for loose cristals in both transmitter and receiver. Sounds like everything is wired correctly. With these suggestions, you should be able to track down that frustrating problem. Good luck.

[Charlie-III]

You don't have anything really outrageous in specs.

Since everything is involved, sounds like either a battery issue or a battery connection issue.

An external BEC can help if you are running servos over ~200inoz, you don't list what HiTec servos you have though.

Does the rig die on throttle, steering, or both?

What connectors connect the battery to the ESC? If Tamiya, get at least Deans.
Can you borrow a 2S LiPO?

Also check to see if you have a LVC set in the ESC, if so, take it off for use with NiMH.

PS, the Castle Link will change the BEC output voltage (factory set to ~5 volts) not the amps.

[ochevys54]

I would check to see if your motor has capacitors, should have 3 total, 1 off each tab going to the motor case and 1 between the positive side going to the negative side, other than that, I would suggest upgrading to a 2.4 system, you can get a hacked gt3 for pretty cheap that should give all the extra channels you are looking for. good luck

[scalecrawler18]

Originally Posted by Ryan87zuk

You can get the castle link for pc or you can get their field programing card to make adj on the go. Here is some simple things to check. Transmitter batteries fresh? Does the receiver antenna have a good connection, not loose? Try to keep the receiver as far away from the esc and motor as possible. Does the motor have diodes soldered to the tabs? These are a must IMO. Did you try re calibrating the esc? I'm assuming that the radio system is AM? Check for loose cristals in both transmitter and receiver. Sounds like everything is wired correctly. With these suggestions, you should be able to track down that frustrating problem. Good luck.

Thanks for the responses! Please keep them coming!
I can order the field programing card (I have a mac and am not too good with computers) is the field programer easy to use for a dummy like me? And is it necessary? Im pretty sure the way it comes set up will work for my application. the transmitter is a rechargeable battery and it holds a charge nicely. I will work on keeping the antenna away from other electronics and my transmitter is located on the other side of the chassis rails on my high lift (receiver on right side and esc on left). They are both in the middle of the truck and the motor is positioned all the way up front. So I feel my spacing is enough and shouldn't be the problem. I have installed all deans type connectors, so I'm good there.
The motor has wires soldered to the end (it's how it came from Tamiya). Idk what diodes are and haven't heard anyone saying the stock 540 motor is set up badly for common rc use, so I can't see that as the problem.
IDK what or how to calibrate my esc (thought that was pretty much plug and play!)
I am using an FM 75.578tf channel 69, all cristals seem secure and receiver antenna seems secure.

Any other suggestions?
Thanks
Ryan

[scalecrawler18]

Originally Posted by Charlie-III

You don't have anything really outrageous in specs.

Since everything is involved, sounds like either a battery issue or a battery connection issue.

An external BEC can help if you are running servos over ~200inoz, you don't list what HiTec servos you have though.

Does the rig die on throttle, steering, or both?

What connectors connect the battery to the ESC? If Tamiya, get at least Deans.
Can you borrow a 2S LiPO?

Also check to see if you have a LVC set in the ESC, if so, take it off for use with NiMH.

PS, the Castle Link will change the BEC output voltage (factory set to ~5 volts) not the amps.

Thanks for the input!
The two servos installed now are hitec hs 322hd, I will be adding 2 more hitec 645mg servos to the rig shortly. I've been told by Al from heyok that everything should work (he's been a great help! I'll recommend him or his products to anyone!)
The truck (from what I can tell) will glitch and dye on throttle, and once it is in a glitch the truck will move forward and back on its own and all servos get thrown into a full lock position and nothing functions until all inputs from the transmitter are returned to neutral.
Everything is deans connected!
I can't just borrow a 2s LiPO (I don't know anyone in the area who is into rc). Why would this be better then my nimh? I've seen other people using nimh and would love to get it running with what I have before I keep throwing money at a problem that isn't going away!
What is an LVC set and why do I need to remove it??? I figured the ESC was plug and play! Im using the same novak xrs in 2 different Tamiya dark impact with the same 540 stock motor and the same battery packs and have no problems. Nothing was set or reset or re-calibrated! Everything just works.

Thanks
Ryan

[TNorton]

Originally Posted by scalecrawler18

is the field programer easy to use for a dummy like me? And is it necessary?

Idk what diodes are


I am using an FM 75.578tf channel 69, all cristals seem secure

1st, yes the fiels programer is stupid simple, trust me i was a lil concerned when i 1st got mine but now its a no brainer. and yes its necessary, w/o it u can never change the programing on the BEC or the ESC, with CC products the feild link is a must. IMO

2nd, this is a pic of a motor with diodes they are the yellow things with the wire comming off them. when useing a am/fm raido they are a MUST, just to much radio interferance produced not to have them.

3rd, althought the cyrstals seem fine, you should pull them out to make sure the ends dont have any corrosion on them, i know it sounds dumb but i ended up replacing and entire radio system b/c i was to dumb to check that, 2 weeks later i figured out that was my problem the whole time.


a LVC is = low votage check (or somthing to that extent) its for use on lipo batterys cause u cant discharge them to far... if its set you need to take unset it cause its not usefull on nimh, and althought most ESC are "plug and play" it may have setting set wrong from the factory, it happens.

[scalecrawler18]

Originally Posted by ochevys54

I would check to see if your motor has capacitors, should have 3 total, 1 off each tab going to the motor case and 1 between the positive side going to the negative side, other than that, I would suggest upgrading to a 2.4 system, you can get a hacked gt3 for pretty cheap that should give all the extra channels you are looking for. good luck

I've never heard to having to have 3 capacitors hooked up to my motor. Again I have the same set up in other RC's and they work flawlessly for years!
Why would I need capacitors and why haven't I read about it before? is it common to do? I just don't see the point and it being the reason for the glitches.
Again before I upgrade to 2.4 or anything else I want to get it working with what I have as i've been told it SHOULD work!

Thanks
Ryan

[lemonhead]

dont listen to your LHS they just wanna seel you big $$$ stuff.
ditch the nimh batt , go lipo and look into a FS GT3B tx. you can get a 6 channel rx and the whole set up will cost you about 50 bucks plus whatever batt you choose. i think your problem lies with your fm TX picking up some interference. i had the same problem your having until i swirched to a 2.4 system.
good luck

[scalecrawler18]

Originally Posted by TNorton

1st, yes the fiels programer is stupid simple, trust me i was a lil concerned when i 1st got mine but now its a no brainer. and yes its necessary, w/o it u can never change the programing on the BEC or the ESC, with CC products the feild link is a must. IMO

2nd, this is a pic of a motor with diodes they are the yellow things with the wire comming off them. when useing a am/fm raido they are a MUST, just to much radio interferance produced not to have them.

3rd, althought the cyrstals seem fine, you should pull them out to make sure the ends dont have any corrosion on them, i know it sounds dumb but i ended up replacing and entire radio system b/c i was to dumb to check that, 2 weeks later i figured out that was my problem the whole time.

Thanks for the pic, its worth 1,000 words!
I guess I will now be looking into getting the field programmer (this again wasn't mentioned in any of the posts I read, or by my LHS, or by castle on their web site page for the BEC.
How and why would I need to reprogram the BEC and ESC though? what am I programing them for? I thought both were plug and play.
The cyrstals are fine, no corrosion. (just checked)

I don't have any diodes or capacitors connected to my motors of any of my RC vehicles and have had no problem before and I run the same ESC, and motors.
If you guys think I should try this next, what size diodes and capacitors do I need?
Pics are very help full! I am a very visual person.

Thanks for the help and responses guys!!!
Ryan

[heyok]

Hi Ryan,
It's good to see that you are reaching out for help.
I just want to caution you that using a diode on a motor as shown in that picture is okay if you are using a forward only ESC. If you are using an ESC that lets you go in reverse, you will have fireworks as the diode will burn up when you try to go in reverse!

[scalecrawler18]

Originally Posted by lemonhead

dont listen to your LHS they just wanna seel you big $$$ stuff.
ditch the nimh batt , go lipo and look into a FS GT3B tx. you can get a 6 channel rx and the whole set up will cost you about 50 bucks plus whatever batt you choose. i think your problem lies with your fm TX picking up some interference. i had the same problem your having until i swirched to a 2.4 system.
good luck

If I do switch over to 2.4 can I still keep the transmitter I have now? but the receiver would change?
Why LiPO? Others use NiMH with no problems, why can't I?

Trust me I don't buy into what the LHS is selling! lol Thats why I posed up here with you guys!
Did you have the same problem as me with glitches even after you installed a BEC?
Again everything I have now should work together and give me a drivable rig, and it's not! I really want to get it working with what I have before I keep buying new stuff and possibly opening up more headaches. But once I have everything working properly and I go to install a 2.4 system and it doesn't work it will me much easier for me to trouble shoot.


Thanks
Ryan

[TNorton]

sorry for the bad pic i guess.... i just grabbed the first on i found on the internet that had diodes to show u want was being talked aobut.

the castle link gives you options to program dozens of things... ony my ESC i am able to change timing, votage cuttoff (i use lipo), drag brake, throttle and brake curves, polartiy, punch control.... lots of stuff. and on the BEC ur able to choose what votage u want it to maintain like 5v, 6v. depending on what your servos can handle and what ur needs may be.

the diodes, hmmm its odd that you've never used them or had them on any vehicle... every fm equiped vehicle i ever bought had them on the motro, the manufacturs know that the motors cause interferance and that is how you solve it. and i mean iv been in this hobby since i was 6, (now 25)

no if u change over to 2.4 u have to change the transmitter as well...
lipo has many benifits over nimh, and to be honest once youve tryed a lipo ull never go back. but it shouldnt be a must. (at least i dont htink its a must)

[scalecrawler18]

Originally Posted by heyok

Hi Ryan,
It's good to see that you are reaching out for help.
I just want to caution you that using a diode on a motor as shown in that picture is okay if you are using a forward only ESC. If you are using an ESC that lets you go in reverse, you will have fireworks as the diode will burn up when you try to go in reverse!

My head is spinning!
Thanks for all your help! You were right, it was about time I reached out to the RC community for some help!

Do I need capacitors or diodes at all in my set up?

Any other ideas I should try, do, or look at? Again everything SHOULD be working at this point and it isn't!
Very frustrating after sinking over $1k into a project and getting an unusable piece of garbage better served as a paper weight on my desk!

Thanks
Ryan

[heyok]

The capacitors are a good idea. The diode won't work for a rig with a reversing ESC.

[scalecrawler18]

Originally Posted by TNorton

the castle link gives you options to program dozens of things... ony my ESC i am able to change timing, votage cuttoff (i use lipo), drag brake, throttle and brake curves, polartiy, punch control.... lots of stuff. and on the BEC ur able to choose what votage u want it to maintain like 5v, 6v. depending on what your servos can handle and what ur needs may be.

the diodes, hmmm its odd that you've never used them or had them on any vehicle... every fm equiped vehicle i ever bought had them on the motro, the manufacturs know that the motors cause interferance and that is how you solve it. and i mean iv been in this hobby since i was 6, (now 25)

no if u change over to 2.4 u have to change the transmitter as well...
lipo has many benifits over nimh, and to be honest once youve tryed a lipo ull never go back. but it shouldnt be a must. (at least i dont htink its a must)

Now im getting conflicting advice. Heyok says Ill just burn up the diode with my reversing and breaking ESC. And your telling me its a must!
If I should connect one, what size? (btw all my stock tamiya motors i'm running dont have any diodes or capacitors and they work flawlessly)

What do I go with? I need to try something as the setup I have now doesn't work and I don't want to upgrade until I know I have a completely functioning truck.
I also shouldn't have to set anything or reset it. The BEC gives off enough power (I think) to power my rig (I would eventually like to run the out put at 6v though).
Does this field programmer need a computer or is it all done on that tinny little USB looking device?

Thanks for the help and suggestions
Ryan

[scalecrawler18]

Originally Posted by heyok

The capacitors are a good idea. The diode won't work for a rig with a reversing ESC.

How big should I go on the capacitor? Is this a common practice among you guys? Should I install one all my rc vehicles (or leave them alone if they are working fine?)

What will the capacitor do for me in-terms of getting rid of the glitches?

[TNorton]

Originally Posted by heyok

The capacitors are a good idea. The diode won't work for a rig with a reversing ESC.

sorry my bad, too early to think i guess. i had it backwards the capacitors are the yellow things, the diode is the big black thing....


again correct me if i mistype lol.... the things that i was taking about are the yellow things linking between the pos/nev , the pos/can , and the neg/can

those are what you SHOULD have to eliminate radio interferance.