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Thread: Fried my ESC with 9.6v

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Old 09-28-2006, 11:39 PM   #1
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Default Fried my ESC with 9.6v

I think I just fried my ESC running 9.6v. I built a Nylint 1/18 with 4 wheel steering, hobby grade elec., 4 link, the whole nine yards. The ESC worked great the first time I used it but after recharging the battery it ran for 30 seconds and just died. It was not warm to the touch but it did melt a piece of plastic on the case. I plug it into a 7.2 and it buzzes at the battery connector and one of the fins gets real hot. I want to run 9.6v because of power and size and am looking for a good ESC that can handle the volts and not brake the bank. Any ideas?
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Old 09-29-2006, 12:12 AM   #2
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What ESC were you running that fried, and was it rated for 9.6V?

Start checking specs, the Super Rooster is good for like 10 cells, I think the EVX might be good for 12.
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Old 09-29-2006, 08:13 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by todd1803
What ESC were you running that fried, and was it rated for 9.6V?

Start checking specs, the Super Rooster is good for like 10 cells, I think the EVX might be good for 12.
Acme B1006- The only info I can find on it does not mention battery size only 13t motor size. Super Rooster might be a little rich for my blood but ya gotta do what ya gotta do.
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Old 09-29-2006, 09:51 AM   #4
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if you cant find any specs... always asume that 7.2 is all it can handel until you find documentation from the MFG that states otherwise...

time to go shopping! Ive seen Duratrax esc's on ebay go for like 10-20 bucks.... its a little cheaper then the novaks, but they are only 7.2 volt.
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Old 09-29-2006, 09:56 AM   #5
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http://www.rcworldwide.com/proddetai..._id=AcmE-B1006

6-7 cells... that's that cheap futaba knock off they sell on ebay all the time...
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Old 09-29-2006, 10:09 AM   #6
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I regularly run 7 cells w/ my "POS" MOPED ESC.
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Old 09-29-2006, 10:29 AM   #7
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Its hard to find an inexpensive ESC that can handle the 9.6v AA packs. It seem like everything's got a limit of 8.4. Whats the limit of the Moped ESC?
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Old 09-29-2006, 11:24 AM   #8
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One thing you could do is go old school with your speed controler, go with a mechanical speed controler. You could run the larger batteries and use a small 6v solid state regulator to your radio. Here is a write up on it.
VOLTAGE REGULATORS
A Voltage Regulator (also called a "regulator") has only three legs and appears to be a comparatively simple device but it is actually a very complex integrated circuit. A regulator converts varying input voltage and produces a constant "regulated" output voltage. Voltage regulators are available in a variety of outputs, typically 5 volts, 9 volts and 12 volts. The last two digits in the name indicate the output voltage.
NameVoltageLM7805+ 5 voltsLM7809+ 9 voltsLM7812+ 12 voltsLM7905- 5 voltsLM7909- 9 voltsLM7912- 12 volts




LM7805 Integrated Circuit Internal Schematic - Fairchild Semiconductors

The "LM78XX" series of voltage regulators are designed for positive input. For applications requiring negative input the "LM79XX" series is used.






Symbol for a Voltage Regulator.







This device looks like a Transistor,







but it is actually a complex




Integrated Circuit.






A LM7805 Regulator






The circuit diagram below represents a typical use of a voltage regulator.



The LM7805 can reliably deliver 1 amp at a constant voltage.





How it Works:


The transformer drops the 240 volt 'mains' voltage to 8.5 volts. The diode 'bridge' rectifies the 8.5 volts AC from the output side of the power transformer into DC. The 2500uF capacitor helps to maintain a constant input into the regulator.
As a general guide this capacitor should be rated at a minimum of 1000uF for each amp of current drawn and at least TWICE the input voltage. The 0.1uF capacitor eliminates any high frequency pulses that could otherwise interfere with the operation of the regulator.
Voltage regulators are very robust. They can withstand over-current draw due to short circuits and also over-heating. In both cases the regulator will shut down before damage occurs. The only way to destroy a regulator is to apply reverse voltage to its input.
Reverse polarity destroys the regulator almost instantly. To avoid this possibility you should always use diode protection of the power supply. This is especially important when using nine volt battery supplies as it is common for people to 'test' the battery by connecting it one way and then the other. Even this short 'test' could destroy the regulator if a protection diode is not used.
All of the interfaces described on this site have protection diodes connected into the power supply circuit to prevent damage due to incorrect polarity. Generally a 1N4004, 1 amp power diode is connected in series with the power supply. If the supply is connected the wrong way around, the regulator will be protected from damage.









A Protection Diode on the power supply input line.




Input Voltage:



As a general rule the input voltage should be limited to 2 to 3 volts above the output voltage. The LM78XX series can handle up to 30 volts input, but the power difference between the input voltage/current ratio and output voltage/current ratio appears as heat. If the input voltage is unnecessarily high the regulator will get very hot. Unless sufficient heat-sinking is provided the regulator will shut down.


The output current of a power supply based on a Voltage Regulator can be increased using a power transistor such as the 2955 series. These transistors can pass several amps quite safely.


It is possible to increase the output voltage of a Regulator circuit using a pair of 'voltage-divider' resistors (R1 and R2 in the diagram below), or a zener diode. It is not possible to obtain a voltage lower than the stated rating. You could not use a 12 volt regulator to make a 5 volt power supply, but you could use a 5 volt regulator to make a 12 volt supply.
If R1 is replaced with a suitable variable resistor ("potentiometer") it is possible to make a simple 'variable' power supply.


Here is a link to regulators








Steve
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Old 09-29-2006, 11:58 AM   #9
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Holy Crap! I'm going to have to pull up a comfortable chair and get to reading on this. Thanks for the info. The regulator you pictured is what's getting hot on my ESC that I fried (LM7805 Regulator).
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Old 09-29-2006, 12:01 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by todd1803
What ESC were you running that fried, and was it rated for 9.6V?

Start checking specs, the Super Rooster is good for like 10 cells, I think the EVX might be good for 12.
The EVX will run 14 cells but I looked them up on Ebay and there going for about $95 to $150
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