tekin t35 toast.....wth

[MaD222]

ok, so had a brand new tekin setup in my yota, barely broken in.....maybe 2-3 hrs use......everything is waterproofed........lol......

did one fairly mild mud run, 1 lake adventure, 5 creek crossings......everything was fine.......after last creek run, was running around on dry ground.....and pop.....snazzle....poof....smoke......toasted t35......running on 3s, 14/87......

is it just that fast for motors to go when water play is involved, of just a fluke?

my 1st water experience......obvioussly next time im throwing in a cheaper motor.....but for sure thought it would last a little longer.....thoughts?

also where to get a new armature to rebuild this thing?

[EddieO]

Could of been the water, could of been a rock in the mud....could of been lots of things. Without seeing the armature, its tough to tell you exactly what caused it. Curious, did it sit between water runs? If so, did you clean it out before you ran it again? Even just a good blow out with air helps a ton.

I sell new armatures...

Later EddieO

[MaD222]

well the armature exploded.....the pc where the bruches sit is completely gone.....all thats left is the windings.....lol

pm me a price on a armature....nm ill check the site....

[monkeyracing]

Hard to say what happened, but if you're running in water/mud, cheap motors are the way to go.

[crawlhog]

thats the reason i wont use Tekin motors anymore. smoked 2 of them that were mostly used for trails and a little water here and there, not even submerged. now it either a HH or one from eddie o. all are 3+ years old and never an issue. just usuall maint. and a rebuild now and then.

my rigs will never see a tekin motor again.

[wheelhead4x4]

Wow that sucks bud. I run a Tekin 35T HD an haven't had a problem yet. Yea it see water,mud an trail use. But i do clean it out after every run with motor spray an air.

[meatmonkey]

Yeah, mud and water will quickly kill any brushed motor. I end up replacing brushes, cleaning the can out, lubing bearings every three or four hours if I'm lucky. Much less if I stick it in the mud, but I try to stay in clear, running, water.

Things you can do to help are:

avoid WOT while submerged

flush the motor with clean water before leaving your play area, and then again with plastic-safe electonics cleaner when you get home. A drop of oil on the bearings also goes a long ways.

Run higher turn motors, they draw less amps and wear slower. Sure, you lose most your wheelspeed going to that 55 turn, but you also only have to rebuild it half as often as your 35 turn.

Replace your brushes when they are about %50 worn and your commutator will last longer, the shorter the brushes get the more wear they cause on the commutator because they don't align as well in the brush hoods.

Stock up on brushes, they are cheaper in larger quanitities, and lastly get a friend with a commutator lathe. I'm still working on that last one...

[h2recovery]

Hmm I have had good luck with my 35t tekin in my cc. Now my scx10 has a 35t integy and that thing is horrible it was crapping out after two packs and I did water break in on both motors. I will say as someone else mentioned a rock may have gotten inside? I know that on my scx the endbell sets way to darn close to the driveshaft which slings crap up into it all the time. Which might have killed the integy prematurely.

[Charlie-III]

Originally Posted by h2recovery

Hmm I have had good luck with my 35t tekin in my cc. Now my scx10 has a 35t integy and that thing is horrible it was crapping out after two packs and I did water break in on both motors. I will say as someone else mentioned a rock may have gotten inside? I know that on my scx the endbell sets way to darn close to the driveshaft which slings crap up into it all the time. Which might have killed the integy prematurely.

Please stay away from water break-in. Years ago is sorta helped with very hard brushes, now it just toasts motors fast.

[h2recovery]

Really.. I have heard nothing but good things about water break-in.

[Propane]

After any runs where you are in mud and water and dirt, you should tear down and clean your motor. I have seen many motors smoke when used the time after the mud run. I have a few tekins that have a years worth of driving on them. Great motors

[EddieO]

Please show me where you are hearing nothing about good things about water break in?

Water break in was how sealed can motors were broken in long ago because of the inability to cut the comm and super hard brushes. Its never been recommended for rebuildable rc motors....and even the sealed can guys don't use it anymore.

Later EddieO

[MaD222]

I am leaning towards a rock getting in, seems to make most sense, i did clean and oil the motor after every water/mud run, so when i get it rebuilt, im goin to put on a nylon toe off my ol ladys stockings.....lol.....hopefully that keeps the little peckers out next time.....

as far as break in.......i ALWAYS run at 3 volts for 15 min, then 5 volts for 15, then giver......seems to have been working great on all my other motors.....

[kramerrc2]

Check and see if your capacitor came loose or broke a lead. It happened to me on 3s


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[JokersWild]

Originally Posted by EddieO

Please show me where you are hearing nothing about good things about water break in?

Water break in was how sealed can motors were broken in long ago because of the inability to cut the comm and super hard brushes. Its never been recommended for rebuildable rc motors....and even the sealed can guys don't use it anymore.

Later EddieO

We don't do that anymore? Lol in Vintage Trans Am we still do on silver cans, just not raw water. I put couple other things in it to set the brushes. Also pump braso into bushings... Run for a bit, clean and soak bushings in a teflon lube...... But after all that I test each one on track and mark them. I build 10 at a time and test before each weekend. I over heat the Hell out of em and beat them to death. They are cheap but this is why I like the sportsman class.... Problem is they allow 25.5 t brushless now. I'm still on the silver can side of the class because I like it that way. Won't go to brushless in this class. Defeats the purpose.