Bell end motors and mud

[dolphenwulf]

I run alot in creeks, silt gets dug up and sucked into my motors and locks them up, I can spray them with electrical cleaner and free them up, but eventualy I have to have them rebuilt ( I know a guy). But Ive noticed that a sealed end motor lasts longer under these conditions and is easier to unlock via electro cleaner or just spraying it out with water. I have a basic Losi 55t bell end motor that I have locked up over 15 times now. I spray it with electrical cleaner or just water and it still runs fine. why is this?

I don't do comps anymore and I just run my truck for fun, I can get my comp motors rebuilt for 10$ or buy some bell ends for 10-15$ and they last way longer underwater.

[EddieO]

Get foam air filters for gas motors...stretch over endbell.(you can carve out foam from the craft store too, you are looking for the thinner stuff though. Air Conditioner filters can be hacked up too). Helps keep the gunk out, but still lets them breathe. Tape up the vents or use a sticker of some sorts.

The sealed units last longer often because there are limited ways for the stuff to get into them and they typically have more space inside the can, where most rebuildables have much tighter tolerances (generic way of describing it)...

Later EddieO

[dolphenwulf]

I like your profile pic, I collect GPK series 1-4.

[meatmonkey]

The short answer is that the "sealed" endbell motor's brush's basically hang off the end of the spring, where as an open endbell motor has the brushes contained withing precisely fitted hoods. If any crud gets into the hood, the brush can't move freely and the motor starts having issues with slow speed resolution and startup. The closed endbell motor can get lots of crud in it without effecting the operation of the brushes.

The other reason is that closed endbell motors tend to use very hard, slow wearing, brushes that are basically used up around the same time the commutator is destroyed, whereas open endbell motors tend to use softer brushes that wear faster, but save wear and tear on the commutator.

I've worn out lots of motors from underwater usage. I now stick to cheapo Integy or Low Buck Racing 55 turns for water play. I can wear through several sets of brushes before the commutators need attention, unlike my usual 35 turns that will munch up the comm almost as fast as the brushes.

Best I can tell the Low Buck Racing 55 turn is identical to the over-priced Tekin 55 turn, and I can find them for about $18 on Ebay.