Servo gettin really hot??

[isac]

So I bought me one the savox1230s and im runnin 3s and have my bec set to 6v for the servo like savox requires and not even 15mins of run time and the servo gets pretty darn hot to the touch. Idk wth is goin wrong can somebody help me please. Gettin pretty frustrated

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[Norton]

Check your end points and make sure there is no binding. I run Savox 1230's in both my trucks and have never had them get hot.

[meatmonkey]

While I don't have a Savox 1230, I do have experience with the 1268 in a 1.9 SCX and the 2270 in a Wraith, and the 1258 in a Blitz.

The 1258 is blindingly fast, and has been a flawless performer for two years now. It never gets even close to warm.

The 1268 ran on the warm side, but never got truly hot.

The 2270 however always ran HOT. Like instantly-blister-your-finger hot at the end of a 5000mah pack. Occasionally I would literally smell burning electronics when I'd pick up the truck after a run. It always concerned me, but it turned out the electronics weren't the weak point. After about fifty packs both plastic case sections cracked apart and stripped the gears during a bad landing into an icy snowbank.

I finally got around to getting the Wraith a new servo, which is a Hitec 7980 (which doesn't actually even come close to a direct fit), and while I only have about four packs on it, it too runs warm. Not quite hot enough to blister my callused fingers, but not a comfortable temp either.

Double check your endpoints, and make sure all you steering moves freely with the servo disconnected.

I'd say it's normal for a servo to run "warm" when being pushed hard for extended periods.

[JohnRobHolmes]

I've always found Savox servos to run hot, and need about 1/3 more amperage for the same power as compared to Futaba and Hitec. I suspect they use too much gain in an effort to bump up torque with cheaper motors. For the price they are good servos, but they are cheaper for a reason.

[Dostradamas]

Have you confirmed the output voltage of your BEC with a voltmeter?
I don't believe the voltage on wires till I can read it on my trusty voltmeter.
I run a 2s LiFe for servo power & fully charged it puts out 6.7 V & warms my servo (savox SA1283SG rated for 6V)up till the Voltage drops to 6.4 V or so.

[isac]

Ok thanks for all the help guys but sorry to sound like such a noob with my next question but I still have ALOT to learn. What exactly are my end points. My steering moves freely without any binding so im just wondering if it could be that

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[JokersWild]

Originally Posted by meatmonkey

While I don't have a Savox 1230, I do have experience with the 1268 in a 1.9 SCX and the 2270 in a Wraith, and the 1258 in a Blitz.

The 1258 is blindingly fast, and has been a flawless performer for two years now. It never gets even close to warm.

The 1268 ran on the warm side, but never got truly hot.

The 2270 however always ran HOT. Like instantly-blister-your-finger hot at the end of a 5000mah pack. Occasionally I would literally smell burning electronics when I'd pick up the truck after a run. It always concerned me, but it turned out the electronics weren't the weak point. After about fifty packs both plastic case sections cracked apart and stripped the gears during a bad landing into an icy snowbank.

I finally got around to getting the Wraith a new servo, which is a Hitec 7980 (which doesn't actually even come close to a direct fit), and while I only have about four packs on it, it too runs warm. Not quite hot enough to blister my callused fingers, but not a comfortable temp either.

Double check your endpoints, and make sure all you steering moves freely with the servo disconnected.

I'd say it's normal for a servo to run "warm" when being pushed hard for extended periods.

The 7980 is a plus sized servo. Not standard case.

[Calderwood]

Originally Posted by isac

Ok thanks for all the help guys but sorry to sound like such a noob with my next question but I still have ALOT to learn. What exactly are my end points. My steering moves freely without any binding so im just wondering if it could be that

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It's rare that a servo has exactly the correct amount of throw for the application. When the servo has too much throw for the application you use the end point adjustments on the radio to limit the throw of the servo. If you don't do this the servo is trying to turn further than the steering can move when you are at full lock. This will burn up the servo in short order. Any decent radio will have adjustable end points.

[isac]

Oh ok yeah I get ya I still got stock axial radio so its got some ill have to mess around with em and get it tuned in thanks nigels_world:thumbup:

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