losing torque issue

[z71baja]

What's up fellow crawlers, I need your help!

I am running the following all stock and un-altered equipment:

used Axial AE-2 ESC
Integy 45T brand new (w/ 80 tooth spur and 19 tooth idler
Hi-Tec 645

The problem - with a fresh battery the rig starts off ok, and about 5 min's into the run it starts to loose torque, or balls, but only when the tires are caught up on the ruts or on the rocks, but not to the point where something will break. Also, the engine, which is brand new, gets pretty hot in those 5 minutes. I programmed the ESC for lipo cut-off and left the rest of the specs the same. Any ideas will be greatly appreciated.

thanks

Happy Crawl'n

[SINister]

Sounds like it's geared to high or there's a bind somewhere.

[rangercat23]

Is your gear mesh to tight between the pinon and spur???

You could also pull the motor off and spin the trans and axles and see if you feel drag, or something binding.


.

[Jcplante]

If the motor is brand new it could just be a bad motor or needs to be broken in. I did get one novak 35t that was really weak at first so i hooked it up with no pinion on it and set the throttle trim all the way forward and just let it run for 20 min. Just make sure you monitor the temp. It should be fine with zero load but if its defective you never know. I wouldn't want you to just leave it running and walk away for 20 min then come back to a blob of plastic where ur rig was lol.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk - now Free

[redsawacs]

all good points....check motor mesh, try a different battery and find another motor to swap in so you can identify or eliminate the motor as the potential problem

[envious8420]

cant rule out the esc either. i just had the same esc pull the same tricks only with reverse. it also sounds like you are geared a tad tall too which might explain the heat.

[stevem50]

all good points, but i would suggest that you submerge any brushed motor in clean water when breaking it in. run at 1/2 throttle for 5 min and change the water, then repeat 2 more times.

[hpiguy]

Originally Posted by stevem50

all good points, but i would suggest that you submerge any brushed motor in clean water when breaking it in. run at 1/2 throttle for 5 min and change the water, then repeat 2 more times.

That's really old school, and isn't recommended anymore actually.

[Charlie-III]

I agree, your ~4:1 gearing sounds high causing heat in the motor. Hot motor means low torque (due to the heat).

As mentioned, make sure your pinion/spur mesh is not too tight and maybe look at getting a smaller pinion gear or larger spur.

As to break-in, you've done it already. If it's needed, ~5 minutes @ 5VDC is fine.
Water break-in was done years ago when we ran very hard brushes, not really needed today, especially on crawler motors.

[z71baja]

well, it looks like I have some binding on the drivetrain (drive shafts more than likely) when the wheels are turned to their max. Im running HC knuckles. I am shortening up the front MIP wich looks like a bitch btw and hope this helps with the binding. I am also going to switch the spur to a 87t from the 80t currently on there. So should this lower mi gear ratio?


thanks alot fellas....I really apreciate it

[stevem50]

not trying to thread-jack, but why not wet run brushed motors for cleaning/break in? i have not found a better way to bring a sealed can motor back to life... and if indeed not what to do, than what are other options..?

[Charlie-III]

Originally Posted by stevem50

Not trying to thread-jack, but why not wet run brushed motors for cleaning/break in? I have not found a better way to bring a sealed can motor back to life... and if indeed not what to do, than what are other options..?

It's very abusive to the brushes & comm. Basically, you can "water break-in" a new set of brushes and have nothing left when done. Sorta defeats the purpose.

Sealed can motors usually have brushes that "can't" be replaced, so when the brushes wear out, throw away the motor.

Washing out a dirty motor is one thing, running it at 3+ volts submerged shortens it's life.

Running a motor in (dry) with 3-5 volts with a light load on it (usually a fan on the output shaft) for ~5 minutes is fine.


Water break-in.....
Can you do it? Yes.
Should you do it? No.

PS, years ago I did water break-ins when running light springs and very hard brushes. It was needed do to the limited capacity we had in NiCD/NiMH packs. It was very hard to go fast and still make time.

[EeePee]

I still do wet break in with new brushes. Just check brushes more often for full break in and tear it apart and dry everything, etc.

I do dry break in also.

Whatever!

[Charlie-III]

Originally Posted by EeePee

I still do wet break in with new brushes. Just check brushes more often for full break in and tear it apart and dry everything, etc.

I do dry break in also.

Whatever!

Yes, it can be done, sorta like sculpting with a chainsaw. While it works fast, you can also make junk fast.

I sometimes do a quick/short wet run, but usually just do dry runs. Then I don't have to pay attention.

[jaloos]

What about something like this to pre contour your brushes?

Wouldn't it save allot of time in break in and save the comm from having the brushes broken in under power?

Still would need a small amount of break in but probably less than a minute.

Could use this to change the contour on lay downs to stand us and stand up to lay downs as well.

[Charlie-III]

Originally Posted by jaloos

What about something like this to pre contour your brushes?

Wouldn't it save allot of time in break in and save the comm from having the brushes broken in under power?

Still would need a small amount of break in but probably less than a minute.

Could use this to change the contour on lay downs to stand us and stand up to lay downs as well.

Yes, you could use a brush cutter. Crawler don't work motors like some other applications, stock brushes break-in fine dry with little work.

[jaloos]

Originally Posted by Charlie-III

Yes, you could use a brush cutter. Crawler don't work motors like some other applications, stock brushes break-in fine dry with little work.

Great I'll save the 20 bucks and not bother. I am still used to old school 20+ year ago buggy racing. Been a long long time since I was heavy into the hobby.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk 2

[JohnRobHolmes]

Brush surfacers are great, on select combinations. I use them on all silver brushes, and on all laydown brushes. Standups that are serrated (our normal brush) break in within minutes and don't need surfacing.


I carry Fussy brushes for people that prefer laydown brushes, or people that like to surface a brush for near instant break in.

Holmes Hobbies LLC- Fussy Brush Kit