Tekin 35t Issues

[tlakose11]

So I got a scx10 G6 with the tekin fxr system with the 35t HD motor. I've drove the truck 3 times, 1st time was awesome 2nd time it just stopped moving and motor smelled like it was burning, took it apart and found the motor full of brush material. Cleaned it out all was good. 3rd time did the exact same thing took it apart and this is what I found. Unsure of why to do about this. Any suggestions would be great
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Anyone ever experiance this with a tekin 35T HD? Tekin is requesting the motor be sent back hopefully they fix it or give me a new one.

[EddieO]

Motor clearly got wet at some point, wore the crap out of the brushes....toasted the comm.....possibly was overgeared on top of that.

From the looks of it, needs a new arm, brushes, and a good cleaning.

Later EddieO

[tlakose11]

it got wet I was out playing in the snow it's has the stock gear ratio in it. should I gear it down? pinion is a 20t idk on the spur gear

[jh1985]

Originally Posted by tlakose11

it got wet I was out playing in the snow it's has the stock gear ratio in it. should I gear it down? pinion is a 20t idk on the spur gear

Is it brand new or and older motor? they usually hold up to water better that 3 runs.

[Ty@Tekin]

They require regular maintenance, just like anything else. Those brushes look toasted, as does the comm surface. You might be able to throw it on a lathe and cut the comm, put in some new brushes and breath some life back into it. Definitely looks like it's been stressed.

[EddieO]

17/18 pinion 87t spur is where I suggest to start on 35t on most trucks.

Holding up in water really has two factors...A. Brush Type B. Water Content...........the stock sagami brush is a great brush, which is what is on the tekin, but when they get wet with water they can wear really fast, especially if overgeared.

A comm cut may fix your issue, but it probably won't from the looks of the comm in the pics.

Later EddieO

[tlakose11]

Thanks for the input everyone. I sent the motor back to tekin and they replaced it. After the new motor showed up I could tell a difference right off the bat! I think there was a issue with the old motor. I've ran it a lot an it's still quite and smooth. Tekin is the best for a reason and I'm grateful they replaced my motor. I run there motors in my race sct and e buggy and there awesome. Customer service was great I'd recommend tekin to anyone!!

[johnfm3]

Originally Posted by tlakose11

Thanks for the input everyone. I sent the motor back to tekin and they replaced it. After the new motor showed up I could tell a difference right off the bat! I think there was a issue with the old motor. I've ran it a lot an it's still quite and smooth. Tekin is the best for a reason and I'm grateful they replaced my motor. I run there motors in my race sct and e buggy and there awesome. Customer service was great I'd recommend tekin to anyone!!

I have a question for you. Did you install the new motor out of the box an run it? Or did you follow any kind of "break-in" procedure? I have 2 new Tekin 35T's like yours which are going in my SCX10. An I am not sure if I need to break them in, or just install an run.

John

[Randy P]

Nothing wrong with breaking them in. The issue here was the water. Water in this case is an abrasive and will accelerate brush/comm wear 10x over.

[johnfm3]

Originally Posted by Randy P

Nothing wrong with breaking them in. The issue here was the water. Water in this case is an abrasive and will accelerate brush/comm wear 10x over.

I understand what the original issue was. The OP stated he got NEW motor, an I asked a question based on how he handled using the new motor. I looked at the brushes of the new motors, an they seem like they are pre shaped to match the COM suggesting to me that I don't need to break them in.

John

[EddieO]

All brushes need to be broken in. If you don't the comm and brushes will just wear out faster.

Later EddieO

[tlakose11]

I got the new motor in the truck and have had it out on trails and rock mud and water and it's performing awesome!!!!! clean it after every use when there's water or mud haven't had any issues and tw brushes and com look great. it hasn't been under water just a few shallow holes.

[johnfm3]

TLAKOSE11, thanks for your input. I am just going to install the motors an run them as is from Tekin. I have checked Tekin's web site, an there is no official documentation stating to break-in the motors before use. Nor is there anything in the doc which came with the motor.

Thanks again for your input.
John

[dna4engr]

Originally Posted by johnfm3

TLAKOSE11, thanks for your input. I am just going to install the motors an run them as is from Tekin. I have checked Tekin's web site, an there is no official documentation stating to break-in the motors before use. Nor is there anything in the doc which came with the motor.

Thanks again for your input.
John

Wouldn't recommend that, especially with a Tekin HD motor. I've run them without breakin and burnt through a set of brushes in a couple days. It was stated from Eddie at brood that all brushed motors need break-in, it's sad but true. The cut of the brushes is set to start with a radius close to the com radius. However they are not "seated" on the com. The break-in process seats the brushes so they are in as tight of contact to the com as possible.
I know holmes hobbies motors are "ready to run" as they do the breakin before shipping. However, the Tekin's are not.

Dna

[tlakose11]

there's no information from tekin saying you need to break it in. if there was a specific way they wanted you to do so than they should put it in the instructions stating so. I've had my jeep out now and went through 2 packs today pulled the brushes and they still look brand new! they are wearing awesome. all I did was install the motor and took it out on the trail. So I guess everyone has a opinion this is what I did and it's working for me. Tekin never mentioned to me when I got my motor back I needed to break it in. Tekin makes awesome stuff I'd recommend they to everyone.

[johnfm3]

TLAKOSE11: Thanks for the reply. You confirmed what I kind of gathered. Glad to hear its working out for you. Post pictures of your rig. If your interested, I will share of mine as well.

John

[tlakose11]

Here's a shot from today playing on some broken concrete

Originally Posted by johnfm3

TLAKOSE11: Thanks for the reply. You confirmed what I kind of gathered. Glad to hear its working out for you. Post pictures of your rig. If your interested, I will share of mine as well.

John

Make sure to don't run just a one speed or rpm. Move up and down on your speeds this will help with the seating of the brushes. That's what I did and you do that on the trails ne way. Good luck too ya

[EddieO]

You actually want a constant low speed....moving it up and down the range will just increase the wear during break in. If you are gonna break it in the truck, its best to pull the wheels off the ground and run it at like 15-25% throttle or so until it breaks in to minimize the load on the motor....

Later EddieO

[johnfm3]

Originally Posted by tlakose11

Make sure to don't run just a one speed or rpm. Move up and down on your speeds this will help with the seating of the brushes. That's what I did and you do that on the trails ne way. Good luck too ya

Originally Posted by EddieO

You actually want a constant low speed....moving it up and down the range will just increase the wear during break in. If you are gonna break it in the truck, its best to pull the wheels off the ground and run it at like 15-25% throttle or so until it breaks in to minimize the load on the motor....

Later EddieO

This is one of those Chevy vs Ford debates. I found all kinds of info on this topic on youtube as well as other forums. If you care to know what I found, read on.... Its like pizza. Every ones opinions are different.

After a lot of reading, an watching, an taking in others opinions an comments, I have decided to just install the motors an run them. If they die in short order, I will never buy them again. An like TLAKOSE11 said, because of the very nature of how the crawlers run, these motors will see a variety of speeds. Probably the most important thing I need to do is not load them down very much. An with 2 of them running a 15/87 gear setup, shouldn't have to worry to much on that.

Thanks everyone, TLAKOSE11: Sorry to hijack your thread. I will have pictures to share soon of my SCX10 (2012 Jeep Unlimited).
John

[johnfm3]

TLAKOSE11, as promised. A few pictures of of my 2012 Jeep SCX 10. I saved the original body an installed the Cherokee body as a mini version of the 88 XJ I had to scrap. I now own a lifted 97 XJ (Cherokee) an 92 YJ (Wrangler), so it was just fitting that would get the RC versions.

http://1drv.ms/NEZjJS

The dual battery really helps with balancing the rig when crawling. An the dual motors is really nice. Currently I am geared 15/87 (5.8:1). An with the 35T motors, I kind of thinking I may jump down to a 17/87 (5.1:1) or a 15/80 (5.3:1).

John