br-mini moa smash/stack, how did you wire yours?

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br-mini moa smash/stack, how did you wire yours?


Mine are wired the same way guys wire a Castle Creation Sidewinder smash using 18gauge wire.
I have both red wires from br-minis going to receiver to power it, bec set @ 7.4v wired straight to steering servo. This seem to work fine runs warm 130°-140° however I want to know if there's a better way.

Who's running the BEC (6.1v) to the receiver to power servo, br-minis & receiver what are your temps?

Are you running the ZD mod? If so what are your temps?

Have you removed the internal bec from your br-minis? How is this working out what are your temps?

basically post up how you wired your br-minis and temps... if there's a better way to wire I'd like to see it.

[ittybitty]

I've always removed 1 red wire...that way the internal BEC's aren't fighting over which one supplies the power.

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Originally Posted by ittybitty

I've always removed 1 red wire...that way the internal BEC's aren't fighting over which one supplies the power.

Other then the 1 red wire, your esc's are wired same as mine? Have you pulled temps from the esc's?

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Looking to find someone who removed the internal bec chip.. like to know how that's working out. After removing bec chip how did you wire the br-minis?

[sourdojack]

On my buddies truck I ran the BEC straight to the BATT port of the receiver. Then pulled both red wires from the ESC's. Plugged the servo directly into the receiver. (this is also how you would wire the truck if removing the chips off the ESC's. Or run a second external BEC to the servo)

With this set-up the BR mini's have stayed very cool. Not even 120*. The only thing people worry about is the amperage of the servo going through the reciever. He is running a Futaba R2106GF for his 4PL and Hitec 9380TH servo. After 3 packs in a row, everything worked great and temps were very low.

Hope this helps...

TOM

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Originally Posted by sourdojack

On my buddies truck I ran the BEC straight to the BATT port of the receiver. Then pulled both red wires from the ESC's. Plugged the servo directly into the receiver. (this is also how you would wire the truck if removing the chips off the ESC's. Or run a second external BEC to the servo)

With this set-up the BR mini's have stayed very cool. Not even 120*. The only thing people worry about is the amperage of the servo going through the reciever. He is running a Futaba R2106GF for his 4PL and Hitec 9380TH servo. After 3 packs in a row, everything worked great and temps were very low.

Hope this helps...

TOM

Thanks Tom...
It's an option I might try and that's what I'm looking for.
Last night tweakin/working on my br-minis after reading post #2 about only using 1 red wire from the esc's.
I pulled the red wire from the rear ESC (bottom of my smash) tested to see how hot the BEC chip would get in 1minute (with wheels off the ground very SLOW forward motion) .
Without the red wire little over a 1minute BEC chip reached 113°
With red wire in the receiver @ 1minute BEC chip reached 123°
Esc's do cool down some when wheel speed picks up.

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So I looked up specs on my receiver (below) 4pl it's ok with 8.4v. I run my servo @ 7.4v so wiring like Tom posted post #5 should be safe.....
Can any one think of reason not pull both esc's red wires and run 7.4v to receiver & power the servo from the receiver?



INCLUDES: Futaba R2104GF 2.4GHz FHSS 4-Channel Receiver with instruction sheet REQUIRES: Installing in model and connecting battery and servos Linking to transmitter SPECS: Power Requirement: 3.5V - 8.4V shared with servos Voltage: 3.5V - 8.4V Dimensions: 1.54 x 1.02 x 0.39" (39 x 26 x 10mm) Weight: 0.28oz (8g)