tekin roc 412 mmp issue

[tnt-salvage]

Hey guys I recently lossed a rotor in my roc 412 3100. I bought a new complete motor as the rotor was backordered. I dropped the pinion gear down four teeth was 18/87 now 14/87 now the motor or esc is having an issue. It almost seems like it will cog at low speed or not even work unless your 1/4 throttle. Also after driving around and stop or roll over it will not move. Full throttle and nothing and then all of a sudden it takes off and works. I have a cc bec and no settings have been changed. I was running 3s and 4s with out these issues. The only thing I did this time was I applied dielectric grease around the leads going into the motor to stop water. I have not had it near water with the new motor but I was just being safe. What could have caused these issues? Also I applied some dielectric grease to the sensor wire port on the motor.

[TimSmith]

If it is the same ESC that was hooked up when the other motor died then it most likely is "injured" Loose a FET or something in the sensor portion of the brain board and it will cog all over the place until it just stops working completely.

Why did the old motor stop working?

[tnt-salvage]

The old rotor failed due to dirt. It wore threw the string? Or what ever is wrapped around the magnets and a magnet broke loose. The can and windings inside are in great shape I shut it off as soon as it let go. So I guess I will buy a new mmp then :(

[xCoolHandLukex]

Try to reset all your settings on the MMP then go from there. That's worked a couple times for me on MMPs and SV3s


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[tnt-salvage]

Okay thanks I will try that out

[tnt-salvage]

Thanks xCoolHandLukex it appears the issue is solved ill bring it to work with me tomorrow and test it on my lunch break

[tnt-salvage]

Seems to gotten better? Did get to far as I didnt think right and set the drag break to 213% and now my rear gears in diff are skipping haha

[Ty@Tekin]

213%? That seems odd to me.

Make sure your sensor harness is good and that the plugs on the ESC and motor are clean. It sounds like you aren't getting good sensor connection and it's running in sensorless, which acts exactly how you are describing. Also might be a good idea to open up your motor every so often and clean it out.

[alpine4x4]

Originally Posted by Ty@Tekin

213%? That seems odd to me.

Make sure your sensor harness is good and that the plugs on the ESC and motor are clean. It sounds like you aren't getting good sensor connection and it's running in sensorless, which acts exactly how you are describing. Also might be a good idea to open up your motor every so often and clean it out.

213% is the max drag brake on Castle ESC's. I run my MMP on 213% for the best holding power.

[WAFFLE]

[QUOTE=Ty@Tekin;4730233]213%? That seems odd to me.QUOTE]


Yep 213% is full on drag.

I run 175% drag with my pro4 3300, I like to be able to roll down really steep stuff using steering and truck weight, it still drags but no to the point were it locks and filps your truck down a cliff.

[alpine4x4]

[QUOTE=WAFFLE;4730288]

Originally Posted by Ty@Tekin

213%? That seems odd to me.QUOTE]


Yep 213% is full on drag.

I run 175% drag with my pro4 3300, I like to be able to roll down really steep stuff using steering and truck weight, it still drags but no to the point were it locks and filps your truck down a cliff.

I use very low throttle to go down steep stuff, but once you go you have to commit. The truck will start rolling faster than your throttle input and if you let off, slam, flip, crunch as it front flips down.

[Ty@Tekin]

Ah I see, interesting they went with a scale over 100. I hardly ever run more than 40 in our drag brake with the ROC, it's very harsh and for G6 I rarely need the rig to hold on a hill.

[alpine4x4]

Originally Posted by Ty@Tekin

Ah I see, interesting they went with a scale over 100. I hardly ever run more than 40 in our drag brake with the ROC, it's very harsh and for G6 I rarely need the rig to hold on a hill.

Yeah I'm not quite sure how they get 213% I'm thinking about reducing it a bit and trying it to see if it helps with downhills, but I'm mostly going up so I want a good strong hold.

[Meatwad]

It's been said before but, motor rpm dependent drag break would be nice.

Going fast? Less drag till the rpm comes down, then the drag goes up percentage-wise inversely.

[alpine4x4]

Originally Posted by Meatwad

It's been said before but, motor rpm dependent drag break would be nice.

Going fast? Less drag till the rpm comes down, then the drag goes up percentage-wise inversely.

How about it Ty, something that Tekin can cook up?

[gunder463]

try 198 drag its a good mix i have found, still holds good but will allow the truck to roll down a hill under its own weight.

[Ty@Tekin]

Originally Posted by alpine4x4

How about it Ty, something that Tekin can cook up?

I'll see what we can come up with!

[tnt-salvage]

Hey guys sorry its been so long but I have been busy with work. Well its still doing the same thing. It will drive at a slow pace fine but as soo. As it starts to crawl it will stop and it almost seemes un responsive forward or reverse and then all of a sudden bam it flip up in the air. I will strip it down tomorrow and change the sensor wire to rule it out. And ill open the motor up to make sure its clean but I dont see anything getting in there in only two runs on dry ground.



Also ty from tekin, what would you suggest I use to coat the copper windings inside the motor with? I nicked threw the coating in a few places when I was cleaning the inside of the can. Its not bad but I can see the clean copper color is a few small areas. I bought a new rotor for the old motor in hopes it will still run. I just dont want to wreck it since I can see a few small bare spots of copper. I was thinking of using CA glue? Or epoxy?

Thanks for the help and ideas.. ill post once I have tried the truck again. Been kind of busy playing with the other trucks.