Honcho motors burning up like crazy???

[Coco_Dont_Know]

Hey guys I have a honcho and it is going threw motors like crazy. Like melting stuff down and smoking like a chimney. I have 20c 2s 4000mAh 7.4 LiPO venom batteries. Last motor I got threw a charge and a half before it lit up and melted down. I've torn the whole thing apart twice replacing bearings and making sure there is no binding. I'm running 1.9 tsl IROK's and metal c-hubs. The rest is pretty much stock. I'm not sure what the problem is. When replacing the new motors I space them using a piece of paper and I've had no problems with slipping or gear stripping. I've ran two 27t axial motors and 2 Novak 35t motors and they are all burned up in just a pack or two. No idea what's going on. Someone please help??

[greenjk]

What gearing are you running.

[Coco_Dont_Know]

Originally Posted by greenjk

What gearing are you running.

All the stock gearing that came on my truck

[Norton]

Sounds like a gearing issue to me.

[Norton]

Going thru a lot of water and mud? Bearings oiled?

[Olle P]

Gear mesh issue?

[Daddy]

Wow motor melting down wtf lol ?? Stock gearing ... Must be a MAJOR problem some ware , is the batt ok ? Maybe esc is messed up ?

Gear mesh: I don't use paper , I push it tight then back off till there is a lil wiggle between pinion spur gear , and make sure u check the whole spur not just one spot !

[tgh117]

Honchos come with 14t and 20t I believe. If your running the 20 t pinion that is probably not helping the situation. Try switching to the 14t pinion and see if that helps you.

[crawl33oh]

They come stock with 20/87. Drop down to a 14 or 16t pinion, and make sure the mesh isn't too tight


Sent using magic

[Dad,Canyoufix?]

I agree, Take your pinion off, loosen the motor, check teeth of spur, if you see abnormal wearing its probably a gear mesh gone wrong. Next, loosen your slipper clutch a little, and just do some test hits on accelerating in both forward and reverse. If your slipper is slipping a lot with just normal flat accel and reverse, you have an internal problem with the axles, check to make sure nothing is binding in your front axles around your cup and ball where the c-hub and knuckles are.

If your slipper doesn't slip excessively and you can crawl over some shoes and couch cushions without much trouble even with a loose slipper, I would try another esc. I run a venom 2s 5000mah 20c lipo on my stock powered honcho and it has never lost a motor.

Another way of telling a gear mesh is too tight is sound, listen to the rig when its moving at about 1/4-1/2 throttle, if its wining and making an audible noise loud enough it echoes through your body, its most likely too tight.

Happy Crawling,

[redsawacs]

the paper method doesn't work at all if you jam the gears together. Its suppose to be a loose fit allowing the spur to wiggle back and forth. Gears need room to mesh or they will be forced into the sides of the teeth just to correctly rotate through one another.

Try this just for poops and grins...

Take your driveshafts loose and see if the wheels rotate freely or stop as soon as you let go. The axles should free wheel smooth. then, back the motor gear out of the spur gear and spin the transmission with your fingers, it should spin a little bit too - with little effort. (you should be able to spin the spur gear using the transmission output shafts and your fingers - if not, your transmission is binding.

If all this shows good and you have fresh motors that are burning up, the only other culprits would be the ESC is faulty or the gear mesh is too tight.

This is about the best video I found on the tube...it covers your paper technique but the important part to remember is the play between the gears.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Dmm5hQBfAyQ


In the past month, I have had 2 new RC guys to my house and BOTH of them had gear mesh that was WAY TOO TIGHT! Both of the rigs acted like it had a drag brake when they released the throttle....neither car was outfitted with an ESC that had a drag brake. Poor performance, sluggish, overheating, and slow speed....all from gear mesh.

[Coco_Dont_Know]

Perfect thank you guys for all the replys and help!! I'll order some parts and I'm going to tear it apart this weekend and check everything out!! Thanks everyone!!

[Coco_Dont_Know]

Any recommendations on what esc to buy if it does come to me buying one??

[Norton]

Holmes Hobbies BR-XL. It will take up to a 6s Lipo. Killer ESC. That's only if you want to run brushed though.

[Daddy]

I run fxr pro ( with brushed motor ) ,it is pretty tiny..de-cased it fits in my axial rx box with de-cased dx4s rx also in same rx box !

[Coco_Dont_Know]

You guys thinks i would be okay with just a new stock axial esc? I don't need anything to fancy

[tgh117]

Stock axial esc is fine for most. I actually think it's pretty decent. They can be had on here for good prices.

[Dad,Canyoufix?]

I run stock Axial esc's and motors in my rigs, I take them hiking and they see some nasty mud/creeks/dry trails with dust/sand/gravel. I don't feel a expensive motor is needed in my rig, Plus, if my motor croaks, $20, Esc fries, $35-45, in some ways you can gain ground by going cheap and staying stock, puts you in a No Fear mind set sometimes. Up to you though, I have heard both castle creations and holmes hobbies are the best value for money.

Or you could buy a BEC and a 3s and enjoy the show. Make sure to put a fan on the axial esc and clean/oil your motor regularly when going 3s. Its a little rough on the stock electrics.

[Daddy]

I run dewalt motor ( in my honcho ) cost like $18 shipped , lasts for LONG time !

[redsawacs]

the other ESC option is the Castle Creations Sidewinder V3...It will do brushed and brushless, Waterproof and its the ESC that Axial modeled the AE-2 off of.