3s Lipo run time compared to 2s

[WHITE-TRASH]

Upping the sputtering won't require changing the pinion in less you're running a larger pinion than you have available adjustment to clear the motor.

[rngrchad]

Originally Posted by WHITE-TRASH

Drop in a 3s with a 35 turn integy, holmes silver can or whatever you find cheap and then drop your gearing way down to say 12/87. You'll thank me later.



Oh and a 645 hasn't been considered a high torque servo since 1996.

Oh dear God don't buy an integy motor. Anything cheap but not integy. I bought 2 of the pro lathe motors and they are the most POS Motor I've ever ran. The stock axial ones feel like 100 dollar motors after using an integy.

[WHITE-TRASH]

Originally Posted by rngrchad

Oh dear God don't buy an integy motor. Anything cheap but not integy. I bought 2 of the pro lathe motors and they are the most POS Motor I've ever ran. The stock axial ones feel like 100 dollar motors after using an integy.

They aren't great motors but they are good for the money. A quick timing job and break in will keep them alive for a long time. I'm still running my original 55 turn from 2004. Although now ironically enough it's powering my lathe. I picked up a 35 turn integy a couple years ago and it was fine until I shoved 4s down its throat. It was good on 3s.

[rngrchad]

Originally Posted by WHITE-TRASH

They aren't great motors but they are good for the money. A quick timing job and break in will keep them alive for a long time. I'm still running my original 55 turn from 2004. Although now ironically enough it's powering my lathe. I picked up a 35 turn integy a couple years ago and it was fine until I shoved 4s down its throat. It was good on 3s.

Don't know if the batch of two I bought are representative of what's being made today, but if so the pro lathe's being made today are awful. The ones I bought are only a few months old. I gave them to my brother and he told me he went ahead and ordered the stock axial motors because the pro lathes sucked so bad.

And fwiw, on a battery note; my 3600 4s batts seem to last as long as my 5000mah 3s.

[HahnsB2]

Originally Posted by Flim Flam

Thanks everyone. I am used to my 2s 5000mah run times its descent enough for now. If I do not change gearing and I go to say a 3s 3000mah would I gain a little speed and keep about the same run time?

FWIW I've experienced similar run times between 5000mah 2s and 3200mah 3s packs with normal driving.

[Flim Flam]

Originally Posted by WHITE-TRASH

Upping the sputtering won't require changing the pinion in less you're running a larger pinion than you have available adjustment to clear the motor.

Now i'm confused not that I wasn't before. I have know idea which gears to swap out. Where to buy the proper ones. I have super newb powers.






Maybe first start would be get the battery first. Need descent quality without breaking the bank with Deans connectors. Something close in size and similar to run times of my 2s 5000mah. Then from there go motor and gearing at the same time.

[WHITE-TRASH]

Originally Posted by Flim Flam

Now i'm confused not that I wasn't before. I have know idea which gears to swap out. Where to buy the proper ones. I have super newb powers.






Maybe first start would be get the battery first. Need descent quality without breaking the bank with Deans connectors. Something close in size and similar to run times of my 2s 5000mah. Then from there go motor and gearing at the same time.

Apparently my engrish isn't so good some days.

Going with a larger spur doesn't necessitate a smaller pinion unless you're out of room to adjust the motor away from the spur.


As for batteries I've hadn't great luck with zippy labeled batteries from hobbyking.com they are pretty cheap and work very well.

[Flim Flam]

Originally Posted by WHITE-TRASH

Apparently my engrish isn't so good some days.

Going with a larger spur doesn't necessitate a smaller pinion unless you're out of room to adjust the motor away from the spur.


As for batteries I've hadn't great luck with zippy labeled batteries from hobbyking.com they are pretty cheap and work very well.

More like my brain isn't so good at times. So whats the 12/87? The 12 isn't the pinion gear? What's the 87? I just need to know where they are so I can change those out. What they are where to buy them etc..

[WHITE-TRASH]

Robinson Racing 12T 48P Pinion

Robinson Racing Super Spur 48P 87T Axial

Rpp is having a 15% off sale this weekend too.

[Flim Flam]

Originally Posted by WHITE-TRASH

Robinson Racing 12T 48P Pinion

Robinson Racing Super Spur 48P 87T Axial

Rpp is having a 15% off sale this weekend too.

Ha! Cool maybe get my battery while i'm at it.


Or motor battery seems costly there.


Might go with this. I got this in the 55t it seems reliable so far and dirt cheap.RC4WD 540 Crawler Brushed Motor 35T

[Flim Flam]

Not sure this will have enough run time. Not sure about the discharge rate 20c vs. 30c and if it makes a difference in torque. This one has a Deans connector be nice to do it up in one order. I'd like to have hour to hour and half run time. Two would be much better.

Venom 20C 3S 2100mAh 11.1 LiPO Battery with Universal Plug

[hairumuffin]

I've had my integy motor for 3 years with no problem, integy has been making motors well over 10 years with good reason. Not sure what problems you had? Sorry to hear

I get around 60mins on the rocks with my 3300 3s.. My 2s packs are big 6000+ so hard to compare run time. I won't go back to 2s if that's any help

[Flim Flam]

Ordered the gears, and cheap metal can motor. Was gonna opt for a Holmes but after adding in shipping and leads it got to pricey for my budget at the moment. Maybe later I will try something better. This is a nice cheap alternative to see if I like the setup even with stock gearing at first with 2s. Try to find a good battery next. Just don't want one bigger than 2s or it won't fit in my RC. I may run it stock then gear it when I get the 3s battery. So I can get a feel what this has to offer compared to my 55t which is the same brand too.

[Olle P]

Originally Posted by WHITE-TRASH

50% longer run time if driving style remains the same and gearing is adjusted to keep the wheel speed the same.

This is wrong!

With driving style and gearing staying the same you'll get (slightly less than) 50% more run time. The "slightly less" comes from the added weight of the larger battery.
The main difference is that the throttle will be used in the 0-67% interval instead of 0-100%.

If the gearing is changed the motor will run with different efficiency, and thus draw a different amount of power.
Then it's a function of motor and driving style whether the difference will increase or decrease the average power consumption and thus in which way it will deviate from the 50% increase.

[WHITE-TRASH]

Glad you could chime in 5 days later to say that I'm wrong. Nevermind the post after mine from one of the best motor builders in the game agreeing with me. Guess we're both wrong. Meh, whatever.

[EddieO]

I feel like I just got dumber...

If you leave the 2s gearing on a 3s pack, the loss of additional runtime would not just be from the extra weight of the pack....it would also be from the increased amp draw from gearing. If you run a lower ratio with more voltage, its gonna suck more power to make power.

Your own statement contradicts itself...

It was an old urban legend that a 4 cell battery lasted longer than a 6 cell in 1/12 the pan car days....it was weight and gearing that made it appear that way...

Later EddieO

[JohnRobHolmes]

A pack with 50% more watt/ hours of energy can give about 50% more runtime when vehicle speed is unchanged, it is a simple concept that can be used for any size vehicle.

The 1million "what ifs" of execution can result in tedious mental masterbation, the answer best found by simply doing and measuring. Sometimes the motor runs efficiently enough to get better than. Sometimes the rolling resistance is enough to get less than. Sometimes the extra oomph available makes it waaaaay less than. There are a lot of sometimes's out there. Sometimes I like to just go crawl.



No matter what, I still Volt Up and Gear down.

[just a sami guy]

I like to run a 3s in my crawlers but does the c mater alot

I think I'm running 30 or 35c

[Flim Flam]

Should I gear down even if I stick with 2s for now? Need a bunch of other mods done before I get a battery. I'm coming from a 55t so gearing down or not on 2s not sure going to 35t. Basically will it be a little bit faster staying at 2s if so I probably should while i'm putting the motor in then it's done when I get a 3s. If it's crazy slow then i'll just stick with the stock gearing till I get a battery.

[Olle P]

Originally Posted by EddieO

If you leave the 2s gearing on a 3s pack, ... increased amp draw from gearing. If you run a lower ratio with more voltage, its gonna suck more power to make power.

The premise was to run it just like on 2S, remember?
So the motor (as opposed to the ESC) will be fed exactly the same voltage as before (the throttle never passing above 67%) and therefore not change its current consumption one bit.
The current drawn from the battery pack will also be 67% of what it is on 2S.