Hobbywing Quicrun Waterproof 1080 Brushed Crawling ESC

[UGLY]

Originally Posted by NielsVV

My lvc is set to medium on the esc and after 100min of continues running (2s 4600mah lipo with Rc4wd Beast II) it went in failsafe mode. My lipo was then 3.25V/cell. Which seems low to me.

3.2 is the standard LV cutoff, anything lower you risk over discharging your lipo.

Originally Posted by rustneversleeps

ya that what happening to me no matter what the LVC is set at, be it Low. Medium, Or high it still cuts off at 3.83-3.79 and that only about 10 to 15 mins of driving hard or slow and the esc or motor are not even warm...I am running 14 lights but they are not the high powered ones either...Maybe it could be that.
I'm going to disable LVC this time with the Low beeper buzzer tool for non cut off esc..
Maybe i got one of those, what do you call Lemons...

Do not disable LVC unless you are running a volt meter on the lipo.

[rustneversleeps]

Originally Posted by UGLY

3.2 is the standard LV cutoff, anything lower you risk over discharging your lipo.




Do not disable LVC unless you are running a volt meter on the lipo. Over discharging lipos causes fires.

I'm going to disable LVC this time with the Low beeper buzzer tool for non cut off esc..

[UGLY]

Originally Posted by rustneversleeps

I'm going to disable LVC this time with the Low beeper buzzer tool for non cut off esc..

10-4, better to be safe

[Hardcoretam]

I take back my comment i made earlier about the programme wire being loose on my ESC. It was just really tight to go on all the way so it was only on a little. It's perfect now.

Took it out for a proper test yesterday
5 miles roughly of deep mud and steep rocks up and over 1200ft of hill
Heavy truck (all metal, 3s hardcase 5000mah lipo)
21t 540 motor
87/13 gearing

Was out for about 4 hours driving roughly and the ESC didn't even get warm where as the motor was starting to get really toasty

This was some of the easier areas where the mud wasn't as deep

[Hardcoretam]

Also, checked the LVC on "medium" setting with 3s pack

9.93v cut off kicked in

Cells read 3.35, 3.3 and 3.27

[JatoTheRipper]

I typically set my LVC high. I don't want my LiPos going below 3.4V per cell. I will have to keep a close eye on my battery to make sure the LVC isn't letting the battery get too low, but last time I checked it wasn't.

[rustneversleeps]

Originally Posted by Hardcoretam

Also, checked the LVC on "medium" setting with 3s pack

9.93v cut off kicked in

Cells read 3.35, 3.3 and 3.27

do you remember how long you drove around before it cut off at med.

I had mine at Med and 2s 5000mah read 3.83-379 and i also tried it at Low and it still cut off at 3.80-3.78..and that about 10 -15 mins
I should get a longer run time then 10 mins

[UGLY]

Originally Posted by Hardcoretam

Also, checked the LVC on "medium" setting with 3s pack

9.93v cut off kicked in

Cells read 3.35, 3.3 and 3.27

Sounds like a perfect run.

Originally Posted by JatoTheRipper

I typically set my LVC high. I don't want my LiPos going below 3.4V per cell. I will have to keep a close eye on my battery to make sure the LVC isn't letting the battery get too low, but last time I checked it wasn't.

I set my heli's to 3.4v since I cant immediately stop flying it gives me enough power to get the heli down without over discharging the lipo. In my crawler LVC is 3.2v since I can stop at anytime it kicks on.

[UGLY]

Originally Posted by rustneversleeps

do you remember how long you drove around before it cut off at med.

I had mine at Med and 2s 5000mah read 3.83-379 and i also tried it at Low and it still cut off at 3.80-3.78..and that about 10 -15 mins
I should get a longer run time then 10 mins

What is the C rating on your lipo and what is your punch level set to on the esc?

[rustneversleeps]

the c rating is only 25c "old school" lol, but just maybe the the punch is set to high..I just checked and it was set at 5 which is default but reading the manual and seeing i have only 25C maybe that why i only get 10-15 mins run time and then it goes really slow so i change it to 3..
the high light explain exactly what going on with mine ..
Time for a test run and hope i get at least a 1/2 hr

[UGLY]

Originally Posted by rustneversleeps

the c rating is only 25c "old school" lol, but just maybe the the punch is set to high..I just checked and it was set at 5 which is default but reading the manual and seeing i have only 25C maybe that why i only get 10-15 mins run time and then it goes really slow so i change it to 3..
the high light explain exactly what going on with mine ..
Time for a test run and hope i get at least a 1/2 hr

That was my thought exactly, let me know if it changes anything. Maybe its time for a "new school" 3s 60c+ lipo

[rustneversleeps]

took a while you might be able read it better here..

“level 4” and “level 5” have strict requirement on battery’s discharge capability. It may affect the starting-up if the battery discharges poorly and cannot provide large current in a short time. The car stutters or suddenly loses power in the starting-up process indicating the battery’s discharge capability is not good, and then you need to reduce the punch or increase the FDR (Final Drive Ratio).
so went with 3..

[UGLY]

Anyone considered running 4s? The wp1080 is rated for 3s but it can handle more power then the quicrun 860 that is rated for 4s.

https://www.hobbywingdirect.com/coll...brushed-system

[Hardcoretam]

Originally Posted by rustneversleeps

do you remember how long you drove around before it cut off at med.

I had mine at Med and 2s 5000mah read 3.83-379 and i also tried it at Low and it still cut off at 3.80-3.78..and that about 10 -15 mins
I should get a longer run time then 10 mins

Yeah so it was all uphill, with mostly mud and a lot of rocks and a 21t motor and heavy truck so a lot of current draw right?

We were out for about 5 and a half hours all in and done 5 miles roughly and i'd say about 3 and a half to 4 hours driving time from my 1 5000mah pack...

[rustneversleeps]

Originally Posted by UGLY

That was my thought exactly, let me know if it changes anything. Maybe its time for a "new school" 3s 60c+ lipo

I could only imagine 3S on 27T motor in a TF2. Seems 2S is plenty fast with the 2 speed..But I do have some 30C 2200 Mah i may try that just for fun and see how that pans out.....

[rustneversleeps]

Originally Posted by Hardcoretam

Yeah so it was all uphill, with mostly mud and a lot of rocks and a 21t motor and heavy truck so a lot of current draw right?

We were out for about 5 and a half hours all in and done 5 miles roughly and i'd say about 3 and a half to 4 hours driving time from my 1 5000mah pack...

3 to 4 hrs on 1 battery...Really...What's the C rating..

[Hardcoretam]

Just thought i'd share my settings and what i've found with them

Running mode: Forward / reverse
Battery Type: Lipo
Cutoff Voltage: Auto Medium
Initial Start Force: 0% - Can someome please explain what this does exactly? The instructions don't make it very clear.
Max Forward Force: 100%
Max Reverse Force: 75%
Max Brake Force: 37.5%
Initial Brake Force: 0%
Drag Brake: 50%
Drag Brake Rate: Level 2 - If you have a bit of wheel speed, i found it allows the drag brake to come in a lot more progressively and smoothly almost like ABS where as the 1060, you'd often lift the back wheels it was so aggressive.
Neutral Range: 0.05ms - No idea what this does either. Bad translation in the instructions.
Start Mode / Punch: Level 2 - It allows me to get about 1/2 turn of the wheels when i peg it from standstill before it applies full power. I've a heavy truck and stock WB shafts so it's very forgiving to the trans parts when i get trigger happy.
PWM Drive Frequency: 8k - Has anyone tried 8k to 16k to see if it's any smoother?
BEC Voltage: 6v. My servo is rated for 6.6v. I wonder if 7.2v will be ok with it since i never get them in binds or anything...
Freewheeling: Enabled

Originally Posted by UGLY

Anyone considered running 4s? The wp1080 is rated for 3s but it can handle more power then the quicrun 860 that is rated for 4s.

https://www.hobbywingdirect.com/coll...brushed-system

I was wondering the same thing. I wouldn't be surprised if it could with a BEC.
On 3s i imagine it can run virtually any motor, so something like a 45t on 4s should be fine as long as it's not stalling constantly.

[Hardcoretam]

Originally Posted by rustneversleeps

3 to 4 hrs on 1 battery...Really...What's the C rating..

It was at least 3 and a half hours of driving i reckon but that's a very conservative guess.

It was exactly this pack here.

https://hobbyking.com/en_us/zippy-50...case-pack.html

[Pete9]

Hi hardcore. "Initial start force" sounds like it is probably what is usually called "Punch." You can try pumping it up - if it's punch then what will happen is your truck will take off with more juice from just a little bit of throttle. This is great for racing, but not so great for crawling. Neutral range adjusts how much play there is in your trigger before either throttle or brake engages. More neutral range means it will take more trigger movement to engage the throttle. Less neutral means you'll really need to lock in your throttle trim so your truck isn't slowly rolling forward or backward when you aren't squeezing the trigger.

[mhowzit]

Originally Posted by rustneversleeps

do you remember how long you drove around before it cut off at med.

I had mine at Med and 2s 5000mah read 3.83-379 and i also tried it at Low and it still cut off at 3.80-3.78..and that about 10 -15 mins
I should get a longer run time then 10 mins

Do you have any binding in your drivetrain? How old are your batteries. I can see with binding it would pull a lot of amps and cause your voltage to sag. Old batteries could do it too. I just can't see any of those reasons to cause it. These things aren't exactly power hungry. It's leading me more to think that you just got unlucky and got a bad unit. It sucks, but it doesn't seem like a common problem with these. Thankfully they are cheap. How long have you had it? Did these problems start as soon as you installed the esc?