Hobbywing Quicrun Waterproof 1080 Brushed Crawling ESC

[UGLY]

Originally Posted by Hardcoretam

Just thought i'd share my settings and what i've found with them


Initial Start Force: 0% - Can someome please explain what this does exactly? The instructions don't make it very clear.


Neutral Range: 0.05ms - No idea what this does either. Bad translation in the instructions.


PWM Drive Frequency: 8k - Has anyone tried 8k to 16k to see if it's any smoother?

Initial start force is relative to the vehicle. A 1/8 scale will require more power to start moving than a 1/10 thus needing more power to start. Do not get this confused with punch.

Neutral range is relative to your transmitter. A lower value will make the neutral "deadzone" smaller. Throttle is applied sooner on the trigger.


You can test out different pwm settings, just watch your temps

[rustneversleeps]

Originally Posted by mhowzit

Do you have any binding in your drivetrain? How old are your batteries. I can see with binding it would pull a lot of amps and cause your voltage to sag. Old batteries could do it too. I just can't see any of those reasons to cause it. These things aren't exactly power hungry. It's leading me more to think that you just got unlucky and got a bad unit. It sucks, but it doesn't seem like a common problem with these. Thankfully they are cheap. How long have you had it? Did these problems start as soon as you installed the esc?

Brand new TF2 2 speed no binding..
Batteries are like 4 yrs old but maybe 2 to 3 hrs run time a week if that and they get about 45 mins in my other rigs.
it runs great with the 27t YR Hackmoto then about 10 mins runs slow like the LVC kicks in at Med.....the esc is new..
I think i might have my motor wires backwards.

[mhowzit]

Originally Posted by rustneversleeps

Brand new TF2 2 speed no binding..
Batteries are like 4 yrs old but maybe 2 to 3 hrs run time a week if that and they get about 45 mins in my other rigs.
it runs great with the 27t YR Hackmoto then about 10 mins runs slow like the LVC kicks in at Med.....the esc is new..
I think i might have my motor wires backwards.

Strange. I wouldn't think the motor wires would matter. That would just cause it to spin in another direction. Let us know what you find out.

[CoolRunning]

Batteries are most likely dead. Lithium batteries have a 3 year life generally.

Potentially you're even risking burning your truck (or house down when charging) with such old and worn packs. 20C isn't exactly high discharge either.

Do they get hot and puff?

[rustneversleeps]

Originally Posted by mhowzit

Strange. I wouldn't think the motor wires would matter. That would just cause it to spin in another direction. Let us know what you find out.

Ya i thought the same thing the motor has an arrow which way the motor should turn in the FWD direction now when i use the program card and set the Max Reverse Force at 50% I'm actually setting the Fwd motion and Max Fwd Force is reverse setting....
the only thing i didn't try is BEC setting it set at 6V and my servo is 6.6V so i may try that...
I wonder if something to do with my cheap 14 light system running the battery down fast...

[rustneversleeps]

Originally Posted by CoolRunning

Batteries are most likely dead. Lithium batteries have a 3 year life generally.

Potentially you're even risking burning your truck (or house down when charging) with such old and worn packs. 20C isn't exactly high discharge either.

Do they get hot and puff?

I can see it being the batteries they still discharge and charge no problem.2 out 5 batteries maybe puffed a little. I do have the lipo bags and use them when charging and i store my 5 3S in the ammo box just to be safe...

[Hardcoretam]

Originally Posted by rustneversleeps

Ya i thought the same thing the motor has an arrow which way the motor should turn in the FWD direction now when i use the program card and set the Max Reverse Force at 50% I'm actually setting the Fwd motion and Max Fwd Force is reverse setting....
the only thing i didn't try is BEC setting it set at 6V and my servo is 6.6V so i may try that...
I wonder if something to do with my cheap 14 light system running the battery down fast...

Something's not right for sure.

I had the same issue with the motor going in the wrong direction and messing with my settings so i just reversed the leads.

Try disconnecting your lights and see if there's any difference.

What Mah are your packs and how many mah do they take when you charge them?

[CoolRunning]

What's the individual cell IRs of your packs?

Old 20C packs would discharge FAST and be weak as water.

[Frank211]

Motor Wiring
There is no polarityon the M+/M- two ESC-to-motor wires, hence, do not worry on how you connect them initially. You may find it necessary to swap two wires if the motor runs in reverse.
This is from the manual ......trying to help if this did....

[rustneversleeps]

Originally Posted by Hardcoretam

Something's not right for sure.

I had the same issue with the motor going in the wrong direction and messing with my settings so i just reversed the leads.

Try disconnecting your lights and see if there's any difference.

What Mah are your packs and how many mah do they take when you charge them?

I solder my motor wires directly so i might have to de-solder them and try that and i'll try and disconnect the lights and see if that helps.I get lots of run time with thsese batteries in my other rigs..

Originally Posted by CoolRunning

What's the individual cell IRs of your packs?

Old 20C packs would discharge FAST and be weak as water.

each battery varies Maybe 4.10-4.15 the others 4.15-4.18 25C and ya maybe 4 or 5 yrs old and i don't run that often...

Originally Posted by Frank211

Motor Wiring
There is no polarityon the M+/M- two ESC-to-motor wires, hence, do not worry on how you connect them initially. You may find it necessary to swap two wires if the motor runs in reverse.
This is from the manual ......trying to help if this did....

Ya the esc manual say to set it in reverse but because the wires are backwards i have to set at normal on my Tx hence program card setting Fwd and Reverse is backwards for the motor direction.....I'll figure it out can't be much still runs but not long...

[CoolRunning]

The individual cells voltages should be like 4.15/4.145. 4.10 and 4.15 for two cells is bad news. You need a good balance charger and if they don't balance, don't use the packs.

IR is the resistance and is measured by the charger. It can tell you the condition of the cells (how healthy they are).

In dog years, those packs would be about 200. Old yella needs the green dream...I'd go and buy some new Hobbyking Turnigy packs. Cheap and they work great.

Originally Posted by rustneversleeps

each battery varies Maybe 4.10-4.15 the others 4.15-4.18 25C and ya maybe 4 or 5 yrs old and i don't run that often...

[GTSLOW]

Any running the 1080 who previously had a castle ESC? I'm curious if it had that instant forward into reverse throttle control? I absolutely LOVE that about castle ESCs setup for crawling. You get unparalleled control IMO. But I really want a water proof ESC.

[UGLY]

Originally Posted by GTSLOW

Any running the 1080 who previously had a castle ESC? I'm curious if it had that instant forward into reverse throttle control? I absolutely LOVE that about castle ESCs setup for crawling. You get unparalleled control IMO. But I really want a water proof ESC.

Yes, the wp1080 has instant foward/rev as well as a couple of the standard setting to choose from. Also the drag brake on the 1080 is crazy strong. The 1080 is simply a better esc.

[kbzx35]

Originally Posted by CoolRunning

The individual cells voltages should be like 4.15/4.145. 4.10 and 4.15 for two cells is bad news. You need a good balance charger and if they don't balance, don't use the packs.

IR is the resistance and is measured by the charger. It can tell you the condition of the cells (how healthy they are).

In dog years, those packs would be about 200. Old yella needs the green dream...I'd go and buy some new Hobbyking Turnigy packs. Cheap and they work great.

^This 100%. I'm new to crawlers but not lipos and it looks like a worn out pack with some if not all cells sagging triggering the LVC. Happens to Helis all the time. IRs should be checked frequently especially if you are seeing imbalance in voltage after usage. IR #s should be very low and relatively even between cells.

[JatoTheRipper]

Originally Posted by GTSLOW

Any running the 1080 who previously had a castle ESC? I'm curious if it had that instant forward into reverse throttle control? I absolutely LOVE that about castle ESCs setup for crawling. You get unparalleled control IMO. But I really want a water proof ESC.

Any decent crawler ESC must have instand forward/reverse. Castle is not the only one to have this feature by a long shot. And, yes, this HobbyWing ESC has instand fwd/rev.

Originally Posted by UGLY

The 1080 is simply a better esc.

[UGLY]

Originally Posted by kbzx35

^This 100%. I'm new to crawlers but not lipos and it looks like a worn out pack with some if not all cells sagging triggering the LVC. Happens to Helis all the time. IRs should be checked frequently especially if you are seeing imbalance in voltage after usage. IR #s should be very low and relatively even between cells.

Helis are so hard on lipos that they rarely will maintain a constant balance. I have owned over 10 fbl helis and never had lvc kick in because a cell was off .05v. Thats just ocd

[kbzx35]

That is true but it was in reference to the overall details of the lipo. Being old and all. IRs should always be checked periodically. I'm sure u can agree though with ur heli background that lvc does occur quite often when there's voltage sag and high IR. I've seen a multirotor drop out of the sky hovering simply due to a worn out pack.

Originally Posted by UGLY

Helis are so hard on lipos that they rarely will maintain a constant balance. I have owned over 10 fbl helis and never had lvc kick in because a cell was off .05v. Thats just ocd

[CoolRunning]

I'm a 3D Heli guy; 'safe' height smack/hardcore 3D stuff.

I have hit LVC prob only once because I'm anal about my flight times. 2.45 to 3min and I land at the buzzer.

Basically 3.75 resting so I never hit LVC.

As soon as my packs start sagging and have no power they become B packs and get slightly less aggressive flying (more max speed big air and piro stuff like piro loop/circuits/flips etc)...less hard back and forth max collective stuff like repetitive tic tocs and abusive flying) til their IR goes up and I retire them. Even packs with a good IR sag badly after a couple of minutes with a couple of dozen charge cycles I've found.

[mhowzit]

Originally Posted by CoolRunning

Basically 3.75 resting so I never hit LVC.

I do the same thing in my planes. I find that taking them down any lower just heats them up more and shortens their life, even with quality batteries with a high C rating.

I probably have just as much money, if not more, tied up in lipos than I do in cars/planes.

[fortyeightjake]

Alright guys, I got mine all wired up and whatnot. I guess I wired the motor in backwards because I had to set the max forward force to 50% and reverse to 100%. I'm running 3S with a cheap Axial 27t motor. I was doing some slow technical crawling (putting some strain on the motor) and the motor got hot, like really hot and smelling burnt. This is a stock gearing RTR SCX10ii. I'm going to go down a couple teeth on the pinion but does this have anything to do with the motor being wired backwards?

Other than that, I love the adjustability on this ESC. My other little observation is that my servo feels a little weaker than it did on my than it did on my 10a CCBEC. I have the ESC set to 6V like my BEC was. I'll have to do some more testing though as this may have been a figment of my imagination.

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