waterproofing a Hobbywing 10BL60 sensored

[MasteroFlego]

I've got a (not waterproof) hobbywing ESC in the mail and i have a few questions:

can you bypass the on switch on a hobbywing ESC to make it always on? (plug in battery, turns on.) or if not, how do you waterproof it? do you need to waterproof the programming/sensor ports? if yes, do i use dielectric grease? if yes, how do i apply it, just put it in the port then put the connector in?

[CoolRunning]

I imagine you'll need to coat the board with a conformal coating at the every least and maybe some plastidip to keep water out of the casing. This actually may be tricky with the setup of the heatsink. If it's easy to disassemble it may give you an idea of what to do when you open it up.

The switch might be simply a case of wiring the leads together or at least the leads inside the switch to make it always on. Then some plastidip.

[Hardcoretam]

To waterproof the ESC's i've done, i removed the board completely then gave it 1 generous coat of Silicone conformal coating. You get other conformal coatings but silicone is best long term with heat and moisture. I usually sit it overnight before putting it back in the case, especially if it's a thick coat i've applied
I also filled the bottom of my case with dielectric grease, then place the board back in. The dielectric grease in the bottom helps prevent water for sitting in there. I don't use it on the upper half of the board though as i found dirt often got in the ESC's that i used and it made a right mess mixed with grease.
Most people don't use the grease that way and have no issues though

The conformal coating and grease will cause more heat to be trapped though so temps will rise a bit. If you're not running near the limit normally it's not an issue.
Dielectrical grease on any ports and connections is a good idea as well and apply it often, as water can wash it away eventually.

[MasteroFlego]

the thing with the power switch is that it's a button, not a switch, so i assume it can't be hardwired.

[Hydrocarbon92]

If you get higher temps with grease/coating, you're doing something wrong. Dielectric grease has a much higher thermal conductivity than air, 0.167 W/m C vs 0.033 at 135C. A thin conformal coat won't create much of a barrier and has similar properties to the plastic used for the mosfet's case.

You should never conformal coat the part of a component where it touches a heatsink, only use thermal grease or a thermal pad. For a mosfet, you only need to coat the metal tab & legs and any gap around it's base.

[TAMELESSTGR]

Corrosion X is what I use in my boats, this stuff has never failed me on an esc, reciever, or servo, even when completely dunked:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s4z8...GHiTUF4VqYPZfg

[slowmethinks]

Not sure about the 10BL60, but I have the Justock 60A in my son's Bomber. I epoxied around the outside of the case sealing in all of the seams. I used dielectric grease at the sensor port. While I don't submerge it, it does get wet frequently. It runs just fine.