Have tech questions? Will answer.

[Jboucher]

Holy balls!
They have a 400kv 75v / 16s motor!
It's 56mm diameter by 113mm long, wow.
Where do you even get batteries for that thing...



Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk

[MasteroFlego]

Originally Posted by Jboucher

Holy balls!
They have a 400kv 75v / 16s motor!
It's 56mm diameter by 113mm long, wow.
Where do you even get batteries for that thing...



Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk

You don't, you use multiple smaller batteries.

Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk

[magic_yeti]

3000watt which Drivetrain will survive this....

Send by my Pixel 2 XL with Tapatalk

[JohnRobHolmes]

Originally Posted by chipgibbs

John,

Would you tell me the advantages of the Brushless Puller Pro motor vs the Brushless Trailmaster Pro motor. I'm curious as to the price difference & the 2 pole vs 4 pole.

The Puller Pro has higher torque density per length of active motor. This either nets a smaller, lighter motor (stubby) or a more powerful motor in the same 540 size package (Puller 540). The TrailMaster is also a great choice for most rigs, and more affordable too. But people tend to overlook it and go for 4 poles because most two poles aren't very good for crawling. Turns out it isn't the two pole that is poor for it, it was just every other companies attempt at 2 pole crawling motors that was poor.

Originally Posted by MasteroFlego

I'm not sure if it will fit in the TRX-4 mounting holes, but RPM makes a mounting cage for the Mamba X. I have it in my bomber, works well and gives you a place to mount the on off switch.

Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk

Whoops, quoted the wrong one. I zip tie or velcro my ESCs down.

Originally Posted by Jboucher

Quick question for Holmes Hobbies.
I know this is a crawler site but do you have or ever plan to make a motor that would work in a pure 1/8 basher ?
Maybe something for the Arrma Kraton on 4 to 6s?

I know the Mamba Monster can be used but high end motors are MIA.

Thank you

Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk

I'm in process of making a line of 1/8th scale motors right now. They are being tuned primarily for off road racing needs first. Low speed control, tractable acceleration, high efficiency. It will be quite a few months before we get to production however, we need to really wring them out on the track first.

[MasteroFlego]

Originally Posted by JohnRobHolmes

I'm in process of making a line of 1/8th scale motors right now. They are being tuned primarily for off road racing needs first. Low speed control, tractable acceleration, high efficiency. It will be quite a few months before we get to production however, we need to really wring them out on the track first.

Nice, maybe by then I'll have a 1/8 vehicle

Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk

[Jboucher]

Originally Posted by MasteroFlego

Nice, maybe by then I'll have a 1/8 vehicle

Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk

Same, the Kraton is in my future, just need to wait for the right moment

[MasteroFlego]

Originally Posted by Jboucher

Same, the Kraton is in my future, just need to wait for the right moment

I found a guy in an Arrma group on Facebook who sells them at a discount, pm me if you're interested.

Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk

[svt923]

So I have run a Puller Pro 3500kv on 4S in a Wraith and aside from being completely overpowered, a mix of trail driving, crawling, and some high speed hijix barely got it warm. Now I want to put one in a Yeti TT and run 4S (because I have an extra one) which will spend much more time at full throttle than in a Wraith. Does extended running at that speed cause any ill effects to the motor if temps are kept in check? The Yeti TT with it's (comparatively) small and light tires should be much less taxing than the U4 rigs running 3500 PPs on 4S, right?

Originally Posted by JohnRobHolmes

I'm in process of making a line of 1/8th scale motors right now. They are being tuned primarily for off road racing needs first. Low speed control, tractable acceleration, high efficiency. It will be quite a few months before we get to production however, we need to really wring them out on the track first.

I wholeheartedly endorse these motors; more information is not needed. My Tekno MT410 could use some Holmes power.

I'll PM my address so the testing unit can be sent.

[JohnRobHolmes]

Just keep motor temps in check and you will be fine! 180f is a safe max temp coming off a run. Your yeti won't be nearly the load that most u4 racers put on the motors.

[durok]

My new Mamba Monster X uses 6.5mm bullet motor connectors, and most everything these days uses 4mm.

So, would it be OK (for crawler use) to make a set of short connectors that are 4mm female on one end and 6.5mm male on the other to allow connecting a sensored motor that has 4mm bullet ESC leads installed?

Also, it currently has a servo pigtail soldered partway down the battery leads to allow a 12v (Holmes SHV500) servo to be directly powered by the 3S LiPo battery pack of the vehicle. I have to switch the battery connector from Deans to XT60, and I was wanting to re-do the servo pigtail connection so that it connects at the XT60 connector, rather than at the mid-point of the wire as it is now.

So, would it be safe to shorten the battery leads when I re-do this wiring & connector?

Also - if I order the BWD Motor Saver from the Holmes Hobbies site, would it mount on a Revolver Outrunner?

[durok]

As far as the JST leads & XT60 conversion goes, I found Gear Head RC makes an in-line adapter for either Deans or XT60 battery connectors, ordered a couple - can be used for winches, servos, BEC.

Gear Head RC JST In-Line Power Adapter - XT60

Gear Head RC JST In-Line Power Adapter - Deans


I found some 4mm to 6mm adapters, on eBay - all require waiting a month and a half for shipping.

I'll make my own...

[HumboldtEF]

I have a voltage ratings question, With electronics rated at 7.4v should I always interpret that as 8.4v?

Or are some things too sensitive to swing that extra volt?

[mikemcE]

7.4 is 7.4 ............ smoke knows no high voltage


Hang up and Drive

[HumboldtEF]

Originally Posted by mikemcE

7.4 is 7.4 ............ smoke knows no high voltage


Hang up and Drive

thanks for the reply, This is mostly to do with servos BTW

I just got a D series HiTec servo that listed specs for 4v-7.4v but elsewhere it listed the range as 4v-8.4v, so I know this item is fine but I have other servos that dont list the range, they just list their specs at 2 different voltages and I assume the higher voltage used here would be its limit. Is that correct?
Some items seem impossible to find voltage ranges for.

[mikemcE]

Maybe, some mfgrs specs are accurate , others get lost in translation . I generally avoid overpowering as I’ve cooked my share of servos, looking for that extra..........


Hang up and Drive

[MasteroFlego]

When a servo says it's rated for 7.4v, does that mean I can run it directly off a 2S lipo? As I understand it, 2S lipos have a nominal voltage of 7.4v, but when fully charged they have an actual voltage of around 8.4v.

Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk

[HumboldtEF]

Originally Posted by MasteroFlego

When a servo says it's rated for 7.4v, does that mean I can run it directly off a 2S lipo? As I understand it, 2S lipos have a nominal voltage of 7.4v, but when fully charged they have an actual voltage of around 8.4v.

Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk

That was part of my question, but I didn't really explain that part of it. Thanks for adding that.

[HumboldtEF]

Another thing I've been curious about is the metal sleeves that sometimes come on sealed cans, are they just there to put a label on or do they serve a purpose?

[Jboucher]

Originally Posted by HumboldtEF

Another thing I've been curious about is the metal sleeves that sometimes come on sealed cans, are they just there to put a label on or do they serve a purpose?

I'd say free advertizing and maybe cooling?

Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk

[Ninomaniac]

^this