Have tech questions? Will answer.

[JohnRobHolmes]

You don't have to worry about capacitors if the radio is 2.4ghz. A 4.7uf ceramic capacitor is what you would install if you needed to.

[kincer]

Originally Posted by JohnRobHolmes

You don't have to worry about capacitors if the radio is 2.4ghz. A 4.7uf ceramic capacitor is what you would install if you needed to.

Thanks alot man!

[gmtech2008]

Changing motor in my yetie score tt. what do you suggest? maybe motor esc combo?

[Stomp]

I started a thread with this question, but maybe I should have just posted it here. Thanks.

I just ordered a 6" servo extension for my Ascender build and the wires are pretty small. They are the same as the wires going to the switch and out to the receiver on the HW WP1080 ESC. This is quite a bit smaller then the servo lead on my steering servo which is a higher torque servo. Will this negatively impact the servo? Should I try to find a thicker wire servo extension? Thanks.

[MasteroFlego]

Originally Posted by Stomp

I started a thread with this question, but maybe I should have just posted it here. Thanks.

I just ordered a 6" servo extension for my Ascender build and the wires are pretty small. They are the same as the wires going to the switch and out to the receiver on the HW WP1080 ESC. This is quite a bit smaller then the servo lead on my steering servo which is a higher torque servo. Will this negatively impact the servo? Should I try to find a thicker wire servo extension? Thanks.

Most servos will be fine, except maybe a 2290

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[JatoTheRipper]

Do you ever perform the "motor test" in the Castle Link software and/or do you ever set Torque Limit? I can't think of why you'd want to do that.

Also, are you the Holmes bicycles guy?

[Voodoobrew]

I'm guessing, but I think of the torque limiting software in castle ESCs as an amp limiter, it can prevent amp surges under load or wheel binds that can cause receiver brownouts and burnt stater wires.

[nginsb]

Hoping to get some input after upgrading my TRX4 steering servo - specs as follows :

Installed Savox SW-1210SG 6.0V
Using Castle 10A BEC
Running off a 7.2V 3300mAh 6 Cell NiMH Battery
Using Holmes RX Bypass Adapter
Everything else, stock standard (also have light kit installed)
Using Castle Link, I've set the output voltage at 6.2V.

What I've noticed, is that if I apply full throttle to the motor, I periodically lose my steering completely, back off a little and steering comes back. So something suggests I'm not getting enough power to the new servo. Should I up the BEC output voltage or will I risk frying the servo (rated to 6.0v)? Or could this be something else, battery issue, etc?

Any thoughts appreciated.

[Voodoobrew]

Originally Posted by nginsb

Hoping to get some input after upgrading my TRX4 steering servo - specs as follows :

Installed Savox SW-1210SG 6.0V
Using Castle 10A BEC
Running off a 7.2V 3300mAh 6 Cell NiMH Battery
Using Holmes RX Bypass Adapter
Everything else, stock standard (also have light kit installed)
Using Castle Link, I've set the output voltage at 6.2V.

What I've noticed, is that if I apply full throttle to the motor, I periodically lose my steering completely, back off a little and steering comes back. So something suggests I'm not getting enough power to the new servo. Should I up the BEC output voltage or will I risk frying the servo (rated to 6.0v)? Or could this be something else, battery issue, etc?

Any thoughts appreciated.

Possibly the motor is demanding more than those nicads can dish out. Causing a brown out. Try turning down the punch on the esc till the problem stops or try lipo batteries.

[Jboucher]

Yeah I feel like NimH are from a different era...
I put 2s lipos in my yeti jr and it felt like a new truck.

I wouldn't even think of running any 1/10 rig on anything but LiPo.

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[nginsb]

Thanks for the feedback, I think its probably time to move to LiPo, been holding off a little since I haven't done my research and always been a little wary of the fire risk. Time to start looking at the various options incl chargers etc.. Will reserve the NiMh for my Tamiya buggies.

[Jboucher]

Originally Posted by nginsb

Thanks for the feedback, I think its probably time to move to LiPo, been holding off a little since I haven't done my research and always been a little wary of the fire risk. Time to start looking at the various options incl chargers etc.. Will reserve the NiMh for my Tamiya buggies.

It's absolutely safe if you take care of them.
Never drop below 3.2v per cell
Balance charge them
Store them at storage voltage if you don't use them often.

I use a single skyRC S60 charger, super cheap but it has balance and storage mode for charging.

I balance charge my 3300mah 3s at 3A. After my run I put it in storage charge and it will bring it to 3.8v per cell automatically.

The S60 also reads internal resistance. If it's too high, might be time to replace.

The main thing is never charge higher than 1C, so 3A for a 3000mah, 2A for a 2000mah, etc... And never try to charge it if it's damaged or lower than 3.2v.

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[Hydrocarbon92]

Originally Posted by nginsb

Thanks for the feedback, I think its probably time to move to LiPo, been holding off a little since I haven't done my research and always been a little wary of the fire risk. Time to start looking at the various options incl chargers etc.. Will reserve the NiMh for my Tamiya buggies.

You have a much much higher risk being seriously injured on your drive to any crawling event than having a lipo fire. The risk of lightning striking your Tx while crawling is higher too. Maybe a little lower than dying from a shark attack. Unless, of course, you are abusing the snot out of them & using 2008 ESC/charger technology.



There is some very good info on Lipo's on the net, as well as decent batteries & chargers (ISDT has great prices, fully computerized).

[bbrigg]

I just ordered a Holmes Hobbies Revolver 540 1800KV. What bearings does this motor use and are there any tricks to taking it apart?

[tapped-out]

Hey JRH. On the 540 can motors (crawlmaster) you recommend 6 to 12 degees of advanced timing. I've always set my 540 motors to 6 degrees advanced timing. You even have an option for timing when ordering new motors.

However on the puller series motors there's not a timing option while placing an order on website. I'm under the impression reason being is because HH sets timing on puller series motors to lowest amp draw.

Why doesn't a puller motor benefit from advanced timing like the 540 can motors?

What's the negative to advancing timing on a puller motor?

Does lowest amp Draw equal true 0 degrees of timing?

My motors are 13txx 500's x2 MOA Berg.

[Voodoobrew]

You can advance the timing on brushed puller motors I believe. Advancing timing reduces low end torque and increases forward speed. Holmes recommends 6deg on most crawlers I think. I'm not shure why you would want more speed and less torque, why not just buy a faster motor?

[tapped-out]

Originally Posted by Voodoobrew

You can advance the timing on brushed puller motors I believe. Advancing timing reduces low end torque and increases forward speed. Holmes recommends 6deg on most crawlers I think. I'm not shure why you would want more speed and less torque, why not just buy a faster motor?

Of course It can be done.. but there's a reason why HH set Puller series motors to lowest amp draw timing and doesn't even offer advanced timing on website.
Before I change timing I'd like to know from HH if there's a negative on advancing timing on a puller motor.

A little more wheel speed would help flip my MOA 2.2pro back onto it's wheels.
Reason why I wouldn't just buy a faster motor is because I just bought 2 500 13txx puller motors.

[Voodoobrew]

The brushed Puller motors have the same exact pro's and con's from changing the timing as every other brushed rc car motor of this I am 100% certain. Edit: and that's when I'm usualy wrong...

JRH mentions the pullers in his timing video here https://youtu.be/G5-EZyPZBFI at the 10 minutes mark

You could also ask from the Holmes Hobby contact support form and Justin can also answer your questions.

The 13t puller 500 motors are good, 2200kv is a sweet spot for power on brushed motors, I get all my brushed motors at 2200kv and gear to my liking.

The primary negative to advancing timing as reduced efficiency and speed in reverse and a reduction in torque.

Originally Posted by JohnRobHolmes

Brushes wear better and the motor is more efficient at 6 degrees. The trade off from zero is worth it. Something like 24 degrees, you would notice the lacking torque.

You can tell if the motor already comes advanced to 6 degrees if forwards is faster then reverse at 100%. But it's probably set to either 6% or zero. My bet is zero. You can try adjusting it and see if it performs better, just mark the end ell and motor as it dosent come with a timing mark.

[tapped-out]

Originally Posted by Voodoobrew

The brushed Puller motors have the same exact pro's and con's from changing the timing as every other brushed rc car motor of this I am 100% certain.

JRH mentions the pullers in his timing video here https://youtu.be/G5-EZyPZBFI at the 10 minutes mark

You could also ask from the Holmes Hobby contact support form and Justin can also answer your questions.

The 13t puller 500 motors are good, 2200kv is a sweet spot for power on brushed motors, I get all my brushed motors at 2200kv and gear to my liking.

The primary negative to advancing timing as reduced efficiency and speed in reverse and a reduction in torque.



You can tell if the motor already comes advanced to 6 degrees if forwards is faster then reverse at 100%. But it's probably set to either 6% or zero. My bet is zero. You can try adjusting it and see if it performs better, just mark the end ell and motor as it dosent come with a timing mark.

I appreciate you trying to answer my questions.
I also don't follow/understand 2200kv.. info but I'll revisit 10min mark on the video.

Holmes Hobbies sets puller motors to lowest amp Draw they do not offer advanced timing on website. They do offer advanced timing option for all other 540 can motors.

So my thinking is JRH has puller series motors set to lowest amp draw for a reason. So I'm waiting to know the reasoning behind this.

My guess is when HH sets puller motors to lowest amp draw this is true 0 degrees of timing. Maybe the reason behind lowest amp draw is not to overwork smaller batteries so hard causing LVC on the esc.?? IDK.

Yes I could twist my endbell to advance timing but I rather ask questions and get answers from JRH before I do.

[Voodoobrew]

Originally Posted by tapped-out

I appreciate you trying to answer my questions.

I kept editing cause i kept reading it and it sounded rude, glad you didnt take it that way :P

Originally Posted by tapped-out

I also don't follow/understand 2200kv.

KV is a more acurate way of labeling motor rpm per volt of electricity, some times its hard to find the numbers but Holmes gives them to us on his motor recommendation page.

Originally Posted by tapped-out

Holmes Hobbies sets puller motors to lowest amp Draw.

Where did you read this, can you link it? you cant get power from noting, that amp draw is your something you get power from. reduce the amps enough and your motor cant move your car. 80t motors have less amp draw and more torque per volt, but they have no power because of the low amp draw so they stall easily. puller motors have stronger magnets and thus require a higher amp draw to overcome the magnetic field, amp draw is incouraged. Efficency you want as well, but don't confuse the two. more efficency just means less heat as thats wasted energy. If he times them its for more forward efficency. But I don't think he does that.