Have tech questions? Will answer.

[Ninomaniac]

What does "doesn't want to work" mean? All 8 fresh batteries and still nothing on the display?
How about the pack in the car? Did it sit discharged for 3 years? Or did you use another one to check if the truck works?

If the radio is dead: try it with a different radio and receiver, doy!

[redneckracerx]

I have a scx10 running 3s, mamba micro x, pro puller stubby 2200, geared 11/90. I'm looking for more control down low and more punch. I think 4s is the step I should take. Will the micro handle it or do I need to step up to something else? How could I gear down, or should I stay 3s and change the motor?

[svt923]

Originally Posted by redneckracerx

I have a scx10 running 3s, mamba micro x, pro puller stubby 2200, geared 11/90. I'm looking for more control down low and more punch. I think 4s is the step I should take. Will the micro handle it or do I need to step up to something else? How could I gear down, or should I stay 3s and change the motor?

Well Castle says:

Applying voltages higher than 12.6 volts will cause irreparable damage to your controller, voiding your warranty.

That sounds like a pretty solid "NO" on 4S.

As far as gearing down, go to underdrive gears in the axles if you haven't already.

[84yoda]

Originally Posted by redneckracerx

I have a scx10 running 3s, mamba micro x, pro puller stubby 2200, geared 11/90. I'm looking for more control down low and more punch. I think 4s is the step I should take. Will the micro handle it or do I need to step up to something else? How could I gear down, or should I stay 3s and change the motor?

UD gears, but if you want more punch, ditch the mirco x for a mamba x, it puts out more power and you can step up to 4s.

[redneckracerx]

Would I see a difference by just going to the x? I have ud gears in the rear but od gears up front. Thanks for the help guys!

[84yoda]

Originally Posted by redneckracerx

Would I see a difference by just going to the x? I have ud gears in the rear but od gears up front. Thanks for the help guys!

If your batterys can deliver it, yes. But not if your just crawling, but anything else it will.

[OhioGuy82]

I am installing my Pro4HD in my SCX10. It has a Super Shafty Bomb Proof transmission. The motor plate is machined to accept 3mm motor screws. The Pro4HD uses 4mm. I need to open the slots ever so slightly.

What do I open the slots with? Dremel metal cutting bit? Small file? Suggestions?

[svt923]

Originally Posted by OhioGuy82

I am installing my Pro4HD in my SCX10. It has a Super Shafty Bomb Proof transmission. The motor plate is machined to accept 3mm motor screws. The Pro4HD uses 4mm. I need to open the slots ever so slightly.

What do I open the slots with? Dremel metal cutting bit? Small file? Suggestions?

The Pro4HD has 3mm mounting holes too. Take the endbell off and rotate it so the 3mm holes are in the position you need.

[OhioGuy82]

Originally Posted by svt923

The Pro4HD has 3mm mounting holes too. Take the endbell off and rotate it so the 3mm holes are in the position you need.

That may be the case for some Pro4HD motors but mine definitely does not have 3mm mount option. Mine has been on the shelf for about 4 years. There may have been a end bell revision since then. All I have are 4mm.

[svt923]

Originally Posted by OhioGuy82

That may be the case for some Pro4HD motors but mine definitely does not have 3mm mount option. Mine has been on the shelf for about 4 years. There may have been a end bell revision since then. All I have are 4mm.

Don't know whats up with your motor then, Tekin Pro4HD motors have come with 3 and 4 mm holes since they came out in 2013. Even my much larger T8 motor that predates the Pro4HD has holes for both screw sizes.

[OhioGuy82]

Originally Posted by svt923

Don't know whats up with your motor then, Tekin Pro4HD motors have come with 3 and 4 mm holes since they came out in 2013. Even my much larger T8 motor that predates the Pro4HD has holes for both screw sizes.

Well, I am a complete idiot. It does have 3mm, I had the plugged with grub screws and gave the appearence they were smaller. I already bought 4mm cap screws and stil plan on using them. I have the 3mm holes plugged for waterproofing.

[Browneye]

Does anyone know why there are little ferrite chokes on the motor leads on my RTR Ascender? And do I need to find them for my new kit build? I was trying to find info online but nothing definitive. Is this something Horizon Hobby thought we needed? Does everything have them on their motor leads?

[Browneye]

Also, on a HW1080 I was going to solder motor leads direct to the motor. Will the esc know which is forward and reverse if I have to switch the radio for motor direction? Or do you have to switch the leads if it runs backwards?
In otherwords, if my leads are backwards can I simply use the radio motor direction switch?

[Jboucher]

Originally Posted by Browneye

Also, on a HW1080 I was going to solder motor leads direct to the motor. Will the esc know which is forward and reverse if I have to switch the radio for motor direction? Or do you have to switch the leads if it runs backwards?
In otherwords, if my leads are backwards can I simply use the radio motor direction switch?

You can swap with the radio but you should really solder bullet connectors to the esc and motor.

Much easier for maintenance or motor swap if it dies.

Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk

[Ninomaniac]

The 1080, weirdly, doesn't have a reverse direction option.

Ditch the chokes.

[Jboucher]

Originally Posted by Ninomaniac

The 1080, weirdly, doesn't have a reverse direction option.

Ditch the chokes.

You reverse from your transmitter / RX, not the esc.

Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk

[84yoda]

Originally Posted by Browneye

Does anyone know why there are little ferrite chokes on the motor leads on my RTR Ascender? And do I need to find them for my new kit build? I was trying to find info online but nothing definitive. Is this something Horizon Hobby thought we needed? Does everything have them on their motor leads?

No, not needed on your new build.

Originally Posted by Browneye

Also, on a HW1080 I was going to solder motor leads direct to the motor. Will the esc know which is forward and reverse if I have to switch the radio for motor direction? Or do you have to switch the leads if it runs backwards?
In otherwords, if my leads are backwards can I simply use the radio motor direction switch?

Put 4mm bullets on your motor leads. It will make your life easier.

[Ninomaniac]

Jboucher, some ESCs (1080 included) can give you trouble when calibrating if the signal is opposite of what they like. I had to reverse on the radio and then flip the motor wires to make it work right.

[Mongol Pete]

Hi Crawler fans,

Santa will bring a V2 Barrage kit and an Amp MT kit for my son and I to build together. I am considering getting a Hobbywing 1080 ESC to run in the Barrage and sticking the 60A Barrage ESC in the Amp. I am wondering if I could then bind the stock Barrage receiver to the transmitter that comes with the Amp. Or, I could just use the transmitter and receiver from the Barrage for the Amp, and get a Futaba receiver to use our 3PV with the Barrage. I don't know if it will make much difference, but I will try out a couple of cheap Hobbywing external BECs (6v) to power upgraded servos in both kits.
Thoughts? Thanks!

-MP

[MasteroFlego]

Originally Posted by Mongol Pete

Hi Crawler fans,

Santa will bring a V2 Barrage kit and an Amp MT kit for my son and I to build together. I am considering getting a Hobbywing 1080 ESC to run in the Barrage and sticking the 60A Barrage ESC in the Amp. I am wondering if I could then bind the stock Barrage receiver to the transmitter that comes with the Amp. Or, I could just use the transmitter and receiver from the Barrage for the Amp, and get a Futaba receiver to use our 3PV with the Barrage. I don't know if it will make much difference, but I will try out a couple of cheap Hobbywing external BECs (6v) to power upgraded servos in both kits.
Thoughts? Thanks!

-MP

From what I've heard the BEC in the 1080 should be plenty for all but the most power hungry servos (500+ oz-in servos)

Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk