Have tech questions? Will answer.

[Thloftus]

Which HH brushed motors would you recommend for a Cross RC SG4C? I’m planning to run a HH BR-XL ESC and the upgraded SG4 transmission, which has an aluminum case and stronger-than-stock gears. Thank you!


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[AnimalHippie]

Hey John, I'm currently working on my Trx-6. I'm going to be running a Trailmaster BLE PRO & a puller pro BL 540s 3300kv motor. What's the best way to set up this ESC for crawling and how should I go about reversing the motor for the Trx transmission??? Thanks for any help you can send my way!!!

[Benp]

Originally Posted by AnimalHippie

Hey John, I'm currently working on my Trx-6. I'm going to be running a Trailmaster BLE PRO & a puller pro BL 540s 3300kv motor. What's the best way to set up this ESC for crawling and how should I go about reversing the motor for the Trx transmission??? Thanks for any help you can send my way!!!

Animal,

I found this on HH website. The esc is based on the castle system it seems and Castle Link /computer is best way to get most out of it.

https://holmeshobbies.com/downloads/...structions.pdf


So, I’d fire up Castle Link, hook up to the esc and go through what’s there.

I imagine it’s similar to the Mamba X and there is an option to change motor direction.

Here is a great HH video that goes through tuning the Mamba X. Mine is programmed pretty much verbatim to this video and is awesome in my Trx4.

https://youtu.be/1r8y_hJjjKU


Good luck and I hope this helps.

If I’m way off base hopefully someone will chime in with the correct info.

[mikemcE]

Nope that’s gospel.
I’ve run that in all 3 sensored rigs.


Hang up and Drive

[Uncle Pete]

Hi John,
Have two projects this winter, that need some advice. I have a TRX Defender and SSD Trail King kit. Running a HW1080 w/stock motor on TRX.
I am seeking a smooth and quiet motor/esc combo for each. They don’t necessarily have to be the same for both. Also brushed or brushless works for me.
Doesn’t have to be budget, probably mid range would work. Keep cranking out the YouTube videos, very entertaining.
Thank you,

[mass-hole]

Originally Posted by Uncle Pete

Hi John,
Have two projects this winter, that need some advice. I have a TRX Defender and SSD Trail King kit. Running a HW1080 w/stock motor on TRX.
I am seeking a smooth and quiet motor/esc combo for each. They don’t necessarily have to be the same for both. Also brushed or brushless works for me.
Doesn’t have to be budget, probably mid range would work. Keep cranking out the YouTube videos, very entertaining.
Thank you,

I also have a yet to be built trail king kit that needs a motor/esc so i am curious as well.

I have a SH500V3 already

[Voodoobrew]

Although the puller pro's are not the quietest motor when paired with a castle esc, they are nothing compared to a revolver, and a mamba x paired to a 2200kv is IMO a great combo for any vehicle. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dBbw8J0ZSnY that's on 6s with a 9t pinion, but it works great on 3 or 4s too. Usually I stick to 4s. If you want to stay brushless then I recommend any motor that's close to 2200kv. This kv range produces the most power, if the speed is too high I still recommend it, but suggest you get a smaller pinion and or larger spur. Personally I run the 10t crawlmaster pro on 4s with a 48p 9t pinion and 87t-96t spur. Its barely faster then walking speed, but I suppose all the gear reduction creates some noise at speed. But if you want a good low end it's top notch, only falling short to some custom firmware I have been playing with https://youtu.be/wSW2xc274UM

[nathanotis]

I'm having a small problem calibrating my BR Mini Dual. Full throttle is fine, full reverse is fine. When I release to neutral throttle, I get some lights and beeps, then a both the esc beep slowly, twice about every 3 seconds. The esc does not arm. Not sure how to proceed.

If I disconnect and reconnect power, everything is fine. (but did it calibrate?)

[Voodoobrew]

It's 2 esc's, calabrate them one at a time.

__________________________
Handy gearing spreadsheet

[Voodoobrew]

Then remove one red wire

__________________________
Handy gearing spreadsheet

[nathanotis]

Originally Posted by Voodoobrew

It's 2 esc's, calabrate them one at a time.

Then remove one red wire

I've heard people talk about this, but never understood how it can be done. I understand it's 2 esc wired together. You must have power to turn it on in order to calibrate it/them, though...

The directions from H.H. state:

Note: When running two ESCs, they CANNOT have the battery power wires connected during calibration or programming. It will cause problems with the second ESC.

This is confusing because of the following:

1) Remove pinion from motor to prevent accidents
2) Plug in battery

Step 2 plainly states PLUG IN THE BATTERY, which seems in conflict with the note which states, "... they CANNOT have the battery power wires connected ..."

I don't mean to be thick, but you can't have it both ways.

It's worth mentioning that when I plug them each in to my Castle Link, the software shows numbers for throttle, neutral and brake. I suppose those wouldn't be there if it hadn't worked...? Or am I linking two unrelated things?

[OutLore]

Originally Posted by nathanotis

I've heard people talk about this, but understood how it can be done. I understand it's 2 esc wired together. You have to have power to turn it on in order to calibrate it/them, though...

The directions from H.H. state:



This is confusing because of the following:



Step 2 plainly states PLUG IN THE BATTERY, which seems in conflict with the note which states, "... they CANNOT have the battery power wires connected ..."

I don't mean to be thick, but you can't have it both ways.

It's worth mentioning that when I plug them each in to my Castle Link, the software shows numbers for throttle, neutral and brake. I suppose those wouldn't be there if it hadn't worked...? Or am I linking two unrelated things?

Maybe the 2nd ESC shouldn't be powered? So effectively you calibrate each ESC separately, then power them both?

[mikemcE]

Those directions have said that for years. The red wire from the esc is the internal bec, you only need one to power the rx. To calibrate the duals, calibrate one as normal, then calibrate the second one the same way. Use only channel 2. When both are calibrated , then pull the second red wire, then plug one into channel 2, the other into channel 3 or 4 depending on your mix. As the two esc’s are hard wired together, no easy way to separate them.
This is how I did mine on my Bullyll with the BRMD, and my Futaba 4PLS
Still works perfectly after 2 years.


Hang up and Drive

[Voodoobrew]

Originally Posted by mikemcE

Those directions have said that for years. The red wire from the esc is the internal bec, you only need one to power the rx. To calibrate the duals, calibrate one as normal, then calibrate the second one the same way. Use only channel 2. When both are calibrated , then pull the second red wire, then plug one into channel 2, the other into channel 3 or 4 depending on your mix. As the two esc’s are hard wired together, no easy way to separate them.
This is how I did mine on my Bullyll with the BRMD, and my Futaba 4PLS
Still works perfectly after 2 years.


Hang up and Drive

What Mike said is correct.

This is just practical advice and comes with no warrinty...
It's ok to power the second ESC, just unplug it from stuff.
as for removing the red wire, you can use a steak knife or razor to lift the tab then pull it out of the dupont plug.

I don't know why they don't like to calibrate at the same time. It's just one of life's great mysteries.

If it ever sounds like I've been drinking...
I don't know, I don't drink.

[JohnRobHolmes]

Poor wording I suppose. It works well enough to calibrate each on channel 2 and then move the plug to whatever channels you will use .

[RCPawel]

Hi John, I've read all the posts I could in which you talk about motors behavior and choices, I'm building a new scale rig and It'll be heavy, I'd like a 2-speed and my options for transmission/motor are:

1 - Axial SCX10II kit, 11t pinion with 56t spur (can't go bigger), 27.15:1 / 14,66:1 final reductions, 55T 540 brushed motor on 3S for top speeds of 5.17mph and 9.57mph
2 - Axspeed SSD SCX, 12t pinion with 60t spur gear, 65.46:1 / 24:1 final reductions, 1800kV brushless 540 motor on 3S for top speeds of 3.85mph and 10.5mph

For realism sake I'd choose the first one (I can mount it reversed and hide it) because the second one is bulky, for driveability I'd choose the second one because it's similar in gearing to the TRX4 that I already have and I get your "gear up, volt down" mantra, my questions are:

- would I encounter heating issues with the first one, being a 540 motor on an heavy rig?
- is the second choice always better and also more efficient (longer runtimes)?
- do I need a 2 speed or can I get away without heating issues with a 540 1800kV brushless on 3S on the first transmission with just the first gear? I'd do mostly low-speed scale crawling and trailing, no extreme climbing.

Thank you!

Pablo

[mikemcE]

I would ask why not a 3500 PullerPro on 3s. Run your gears, curved throttle as JRH shows and no two speed. If you feel a 3500 is too fast, a 2700 will work . I run a 3500 on my 11.5# Wraith crawler, per John’s rec


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[RCPawel]

I'd like a top speed of 11mph tops, I don't need more since I'd like the speed to be scale too

[RCPawel]

No one?

[JayHawk]

Looking for an SCX24 battery extension. Searched multiple times using various ways (MCPX JST, micro battery, and everything else in between). Anybody know where I could pick one up, outside of buying a plethora of pigtails and soldering them together?

PS. I don't have a soldering iron yet, and don't really wanna buy one for a 3 inch extension.

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