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Old 08-13-2018, 06:59 PM   #681
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Default Re: Have tech questions? Will answer.

I have a good supply of shims in that size range. I’ll check to see if we can meet 2.8mm tomorrow.
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Old 08-14-2018, 01:05 PM   #682
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Can i fit a 2200kv and a 6s lipo in a axial yeti
With out cutting the chassie ?🤔😁😂😑😐
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Old 08-14-2018, 01:11 PM   #683
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rc stuff 05 youtube View Post
Can i fit a 2200kv and a 6s lipo in a axial yeti
With out cutting the chassie ?����������
Short answer, yes.

(Chassis, not chassie - the "s" is silent)
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Old 08-14-2018, 02:11 PM   #684
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Default Re: Have tech questions? Will answer.

A Yeti would be crazy fun with a 2200kv on 6S!

And he's in Canada so the "s" isn't silent...he was being 'Merican
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Old 08-14-2018, 02:13 PM   #685
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B-b-but think of all the broken parts....

(oh, the carnage...)

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Old 08-15-2018, 07:04 AM   #686
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Hi, I just finished my scx10ii build with puller pro stubby 2700kv and mamba x.
Does the mamba x need the fan with this combo? I dont know how the fan will hold with mud, dirt and a little water...

It is my first rc car so total newbie
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Old 08-15-2018, 10:08 AM   #687
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Default Re: Have tech questions? Will answer.

you won't need the fan with a mamba X.


My shims are 2.15mm and 1mm. won't quite work for the Castle motor.
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Old 08-15-2018, 01:40 PM   #688
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnRobHolmes View Post
you won't need the fan with a mamba X.

Thnx for the answer, i will remove it now
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Old 08-16-2018, 09:14 PM   #689
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Default Re: Have tech questions? Will answer.

Is it possible to buy internals for the V1 SHV500? Getting a small amount of shaft play.

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Old 08-16-2018, 09:32 PM   #690
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Originally Posted by GTSLOW View Post
Is it possible to buy internals for the V1 SHV500? Getting a small amount of shaft play.

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I believe this is what ya need:

https://holmeshobbies.com/electronic...0-gearset.html

they have v2 parts as well, here:

https://holmeshobbies.com/electronic...o-gearset.html
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Old 08-19-2018, 09:34 AM   #691
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JohnRobHolmes I was wondering if you have ever discussed the differences between the Puller Pro and the TrailMaster Pro series of motors, other than 2 pole vs 4 pole what are the major differences. I did a quick looksee here and even on YouTube with not a lot of luck...could this be an idea for one of your YouTube videos ?
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Old 08-19-2018, 07:37 PM   #692
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I should do that for the brushless and brushed too. Just explain the differences between lines.
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Old 08-19-2018, 07:42 PM   #693
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Don’t forget to confuse us all by showing the revolver also !


Hang up and Drive
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Old 08-22-2018, 12:13 AM   #694
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I posted this elsewhere but if you could compare your motors with something easy to understand like this:

that would be awesome!
Since you need a decoder to see it, nobody could copy your stuff :P
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Old 08-27-2018, 08:02 PM   #695
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JohnRobHolmes I am wanting to pick up a Mamba X and a 1800kv Revolver for my TRX4...even more since watching your YouTube videos.

But....before I pull the trigger on that combo, I’m also interested in the Trailmaster Pro BL 2 pole 540 2200kv. How does that motor compare to the Revolvers or even the castle slate motors ?

I guess I’m just wondering if it has good low speed control and decent power, I have PullerPro 2700 and a Mamba X in my Bomber and I like the power and low speed control that it has. I’m sure that is completely in a different realm from the Trailmaster motors though.

I looked around on here and a YouTube but did not find much info or reviews on the Trailmaster motors.
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Old 08-27-2018, 09:13 PM   #696
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Pretty sure in holmes brushless motors for low speed control it goes trailmaster < puller < revolver < best

Also lower kv is not better for low speed control in brushless motors in the way brushed motors might be. Just since you mentioned 2 different kv brushless motors.

My impression is the trailmaster are on par with slate motors, but I have no grounds for this.

Last edited by Voodoobrew; 08-27-2018 at 09:25 PM.
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Old 08-28-2018, 05:03 AM   #697
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Hi guys, primarily posting here for input from HH because I intend to purchase some equipment from them or of theirs if possible (I'm in scotland)

Background: I am currently sizing up a TRX 4 build with the defender body, I would like to have a TRX-4 that switches between a hardbody Toyota pickup and the hardbody defender but it seems that the wheel base will make this an issue. This is not my first RC but I have been away from RC in a good capacity for a long time so I am short on knowledge. I intend to use this for trail running in all weathers/conditions all year round and it will get dunked in some streams/small sections of Scottish rivers.

Please note: the car will be modded with an eBay mod that allows me to run 2 batteries in parallel on the side skids (Moving the ESC and other items on to a new plate in the middle of the chassis)
  1. I have currently toyed with adding a HH BLS SHV500 but am unsure of how well it will withstand the odd river dunk due to the wording on the website about waterproofing so I ask: will it be suitable for my needs?
  1. I am considering ordering a Mamba X ESC and either a Pullerpro or Trail master motor. I wish to be able to set up the way the motor behaves via the ESC but I don't really need logging etc... I also saw a video where a crazy Englishman hooked up the 2 speed switch to allow him to have a fast setting with no Drag Brake and a slow setting with Drag brake, so I wish to know: will this ESC be suitable for me requirements, will I be better with a different ESC for my needs and which of the 2 motors would better suit me and at what Kv? n.b. Money isn't a huge issue but all money saved can go towards other items like tyres where I will also see good gains but I don't want to skimp on parts now and change again later due to being cheap! Failure / wear and tear is a slightly different issue!
  1. I wish to wire 2 3s Batteries in parallel for all operation using the above mentioned mod, currently I'm looking at 2x Turnigy graphine 3s 3000 Pro 15C for most duties and 2x Turnigy Graphene 3s 1800 65C for any small runs where smaller lighter batteries might help with technical crawling but also they are to get me home if the local club I intend to go out with, go on a longer run where other users have typically gone through just over 5000mAh packs. I don't know how to calculate the current draw of the motor and servo combo but I saw that Castle recommend 70Ah minimum supply. The 1800 packs can supply over 100A constant however the 2 3000 packs at 15C will only give 45A Constant or 90A burst, will they still be ok because I will have 45A between 2 packs (90A total) / does the burst rating cover this or should I get some Higher rated 2200mAh packs instead? (their other 3000 pack is too long to be skid mounted)

I hope all this makes sense and I am very grateful for any advice received!! Also, clearly I can't work the 'list' BB code but I'm in a hurry to go for lunch so I may fix it later!!!

Dougie

Last edited by niro750; 08-28-2018 at 05:05 AM.
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Old 08-28-2018, 03:15 PM   #698
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1: you can take the servo apart and clean it, there are new seals in the rebuild kit. You could spray conformal coating or put Dielectric grease on the electronics also. electronics rarely like water, and water proof is just how resistant the case is at keeping water off the electronics. conformal coating and Dielectric grease just add an extra layer of protection cause water is really good at getting inside stuff. (I know this isnt a real answer, but there is CYA involved.) Mine has survived the random pool incident with no added protection, but I don't drive in water intentionally.

1: the mamba x has the aux wire and a special race/crawler mode for the brake thing you mentioned, you do need an extra channel/port on your reciever for this function. as far as i know only castle mamba x and varients have this feature. Good esc.

1: 2x Turnigy graphine 3s 3000 Pro 15C, I would look for 30c minimum myself, but since they are in parallel they pretty much are one 3s 30c 6000mah pack. In a parallel setup you increase capacity and can increase amp draw. in series you only increase voltage. But I think there are better batteries for the same price that are higher C rated and 3000mah.

its ok I cant figure out the list function either.

Last edited by Voodoobrew; 08-28-2018 at 03:19 PM.
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Old 08-28-2018, 03:25 PM   #699
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Hello! Im new here, and don’t really know where to post this... so I’m putting it here. Hopefully someone will redirect me to the proper location. I’m looking to buy a piece of sheet metal (undecided on type) to make body panels for my axial yeti rc rock racer... I’m a noob, so aside from drawing the pattern on the metal and using my jig saw to cut it out... am I missing anything? Should I be using certain tools/materials? Thank you in advance from a girl trying to make her Yeti Spaghetti happy.


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Old 08-28-2018, 03:46 PM   #700
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Batmanicus37 View Post
Hello! Im new here, and don’t really know where to post this... so I’m putting it here. Hopefully someone will redirect me to the proper location. I’m looking to buy a piece of sheet metal (undecided on type) to make body panels for my axial yeti rc rock racer... I’m a noob, so aside from drawing the pattern on the metal and using my jig saw to cut it out... am I missing anything? Should I be using certain tools/materials? Thank you in advance from a girl trying to make her Yeti Spaghetti happy.


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Hello Batmanicus , yes you most definitely are in the wrong section this is specifically regarding electronics lol , but I don’t mind giving you some advice as I really enjoy making aluminium panels , first thing is don’t use a jigsaw it’ll jump all over the place and possibly damage your fingers unless it’s fixed down securely with clamps and you use a piece of sacrificial plywood or mdf ( I think mdf maybe banned in the states for health reasons though) but plywood will be just fine , but even still I’d advise you to use tin snips that are like industrial scissors or a dremmel with a metal cutting disk ,
The first thing you want to do is make card templates using pencil and ruler then cut out and mark screw hole positions do a test fit using the screw holes .
Once happy with the fit you can transfer to the aluminium sheet , if you mark off the edge it’s one less line you have to cut and saves on material wastage ,

You then can give it a really good sanding , this will give a good key for the undercoat to stick to or even get stickers and vinyl as they won’t crack if it’s get bent or takes a knock , this is something I discovered after spending hours and hours sanding and spraying lol ,

Once it’s complete I would advise sticky back plastic over the top just to prevent any extra damage . Hope this helps and good luck


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