Have tech questions? Will answer.
 

Post up electronics tech questions and I'll do my best to answer them until I burn out. It would be great to have some distractions from the circus of memes on facebook.



I'll start first. HOw are the electronics on the TRX-4?


answer: Servos are easy to burn out, steering servo is undersized for the weight, needs at least 300oz/in. ESC and motor are adequate, but don't have much control getting through a bind.

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Do I need a BEC? ;-)

Thanks for your dedication John "thumbsup".

Bob

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If you are running anything except an SHV500 servo, yes you do :lol:


Just got v2 SHV which is 2s through 4s direct power compatible. Its super quick on 4s.

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What is the best way to break in brushes that are NOT from HH? In a glass of water?? Do I just run the motor and then break it down and clean the can and armature?

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If they are serrated face, 3 minutes at 3v and then spool it up once on pack voltage.

If they are curved face, same thing but keep checking the face every minute until broken in. If the curve is wrong it may take a little while.

If they are flat face and you don't have a brush shaper , go ahead and pull out the cup of water and be prepared to dry and reoil after.

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An old myth I have heard among flyers:

Running a brushless motor at partial or lower throttle is harder on the motor, making the esc/motor work harder and hotter, than higher or full throttle.

Example here, If I'm running my Puller Pro Standard 2700 KV at a little under 1/4 throttle for an extended time, it is harder on the motor than running it at higher throttle, around 50-60% for a while.

Any truth to this?

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I've also heard that electric motors are happiest when they are spinning faster.


Very nice! Being able to get down to 2S is a nice feature ( I usually bring a 2S battery around for backup but I'm afraid to use it with the SHV500 V1 in my wraith)

What does it take to get the broader range in voltage?

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Motors like spinning faster for any given load, but it's not much issue to run motors at half throttle. The item that really hurts under part throttle is the esc unless it has synchronous rectification, which no car controllers use. Part throttle loads without SR utilize body diodes to deal with rectification, which makes a lot more heat than the FETs would.

Just do it. It wasn't officially stated, but v1 handles 2s.

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http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/elect...nnections.html
I posted that thread and then found this 1 and thought as owner of HH, who better to ask questions!

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In the brushed world, where would the puller 400 compare to a brushless?

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What is the difference between your waterproof version and regular puller pro? I bought this 3500 used and was told it's not the water proof version, but the sensor boards looked coated when I pulled it apart to silicon conformal coat them.

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2Can I make a brush shaper or buy one for reasonably cheap? I'm looking now.

Edit: during the break in , the motor in or out? Is it best connected to the drive line or no?

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Apart from the bearing on shaft output end of the motor, what are the differences between the Trailmaster Sport 550 motors and the Traxxas Titan 21t 550 motors?

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There isn't anything very close that works. A little 2215 outrunner would be similar.

You may have gotten a freebie upgrade. The boardmaker puts a little bit of conformal, but we lay it on thicker in house.

No load for break in. In the vehicle with no pinion is fine.

This is what we use to shape brushes-

Fussy Brush Kit - Parts and Accessories - Motors

Much better magnets. The Trailmaster stalls less and handles more predictably in a bind.

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Can the little 0.5A BEC on the TorqueMaster mini BR support a small light bar like this: https://www.horizonhobby.com/product...20-p-los230005

If not, how about the two BECs together with the Mini BR Dual?

(I’m using the Nightcrawler body for a MOA build )

Thanks!

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What can you run 4s on in your puller brushless motor series?


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Depends on a few too many factors to say outright, but... Two mini BRs going into an ESC would probably work since they are linear and won't fight as much. No problem on 2s. 3s may make the main regulator run warm or even hot. Wouldn't recommend 4s whilst powering leds.

3500kv is awesome on it, racing or otherwise. 4500 hasn't been tested on the track running 4s, it would be pretty uncontrollable power though.

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What's the improvements / differences on the v2 500 series servos vs. v1?

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Dear JRH:

For a scale crawling application, everything else being equal, which setup would give more torque?

1) Puller Pro 2200kv,

OR

2) Puller Pro 2700kv geared down to operate at approximately the same vehicle speed as the 2200kv.

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JRH,

I usually gear down my drivetrain (axles, spur and pinion) for better torque and smooth startup. I always use a shallow throttle curve with high startup. Typically using puller pros and ble. I always get confused on KV though. Given the previous...what would be better for torque and slow crawling? 2200, 3500 or negligible difference? Would a 3500/2700 with throttle EPAs shortened feel the same as a 2200 wide open at startup? Thanks in advance."thumbsup"

Just reread Mav's post...kind of similar...edit: Does a throttle curve significantly change the amount of power or torque to a given KV motor?

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Better center pin. Stronger case. Higher voltage rating. Full 4s capable.

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What sort of timing do the PP 540s 2700kv run? and amps should they pull with no load?
I have a PP 540s 2700kv I put in my toyzuki v2 it made alot of high pitch electrical squeal more than ususal and got hot fast.
I just bought my self a motor analyzer for racing and tested the PP 540s 2700kv
Here is what it tested at:
kv=3159 voltage=7.4v rpm=23377 amps=9.5

average timing was 48dg ph.A= 51 ph.B= 46 ph.C= 48

To me this seems like too much amps with no load, I would think that it should be more around 6amps no load
and the sensors seem to be out alot

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read next post, he got it

[QUOTE=Motorider;5755230]Better center pin. Stronger case. Higher voltage rating. Full 4s capable.

2700 geared down, all day. It produces more torque on 3s at the same gearing too, so its a double whammy.

Best throttle control will come by using the entire throttle range, not using EPAs to "choke up" a fast motor. If a motor is too fast, gear down, use a lower voltage, or choose a slower KV. I can gear down a 3500kv on 3s to crawling speed without an issue, but many people prefer the 2700 as a more drivable motor. Higher KV motors are more punchy and powerful if you don't exercise throttle control.

Throttle curve doesn't affect power or torque, just how the throttle is delivered. A nice gentle exponential slope gives better low speed control without sacrificing higher speeds.

That is way out, should be around 15 degrees. I'll swap you out , email Warranty@ or go through my website contact form and we will get the ball rolling.

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Perfect thank you!

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Hey John. Can I use your br mini to power a 13t crawlmaster expert? (Blue label) it's going into a sub 6lb toyzuki v2

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Yessir

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What could be the cause of a stuttering sensored brushless motor?

Example: A Trailmaster BLE Pro and Puller Pro 2700 kv combo that has always been run with it it's limits, never overheated, running stock gearing on 3S, who's connections have all been confirmed to be good, stutters when throttle is applied. The stuttering is accompanied by a high-pitched sound.

This is all Hypothetical, of course.

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Hypothetically I would replug or replace the sensor wire........


Hang up and Drive

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Hi John,

Mamba Monster X + Puller Pro (Standard) 3500Kv
1. Will this combo work well on 4S?
2. Would I need to gear down to keep temps at bay?
3. What would be the performance difference vs a Castle 1415 2400Kv motor?

For use on a heavyish Wraith for crawling and bashing

Thanks

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Hypotheticals can't be troubleshooted. Choose any component, they are hypothetically all suspect.

4s is fine
Stock gearing is fine
The puller will have far better startup , more speed, more power, and generally be a better motor for your wraith.

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John, can you help me with this problem with my HV500 servo?

http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/elect...500-servo.html

.

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hello rob, can you help me choose between mamba x and mamba monster x?
already have puller pro BL 540 2200kv and want to paired with one of them
I still can not choose one of them, mamba x or monster x
from what I read on the description mamba x has 9lbs maximum weight (rtr with battery) while monster x has 15lbs maximum weight (combo with 2200kv motor)
my rig has weight around 10-11lbs, some people said its ok with mamba x and some people said go with monster x and I'm confused to choose since I'm new in rcs electric (usually go with rtr nor brushed system lol)
can you help me to choose between mamba x or monster x
wich one will preform better with my rig weight and not fried my esc

thanks,

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Mamba X will be perfectly fine in your rig. MX is meant for 1/10th scale and MMX is 1/8th scale. You can take castles rated weights with a grain of salt. There Micro X is only 'rated' for a few pounds yet there going in scx and wraith without issues. Crawling is less taxing then racing so you can get away with it.

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If you have the space for the monster I would go that route. I know you will get answers on both sides of the fence. I'll justify my decision. First is price. The monster x can be found used much cheaper and readily any say of the week than the newer mamba x. It's also a few dollars cheaper new. Second is the extra overhead. You will be garaunteed not to have problems. Finally, is the monster x is lighter.

Don't get me wrong, I run the mamba x in all my vehicles, but they are all as light as possible and under 8 lbs.

What kind of rig is this 11 lb monster?

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The micro X is more than enough for most crawlers. I've seen 15lb trucks run a microX without issue.

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basicly its scx10, all aluminum on chassis parts (ie shock mount, skid plate etc) both axles using boom racing steel xrmod phat axles (gearing with 36/14 front, and 43/13 rear, steel diff case with HD locker), rc4wd AX2 2 speed tranny (87t spur and 14t pinion), set of gmade sr03 steel beadlock wheels, set of gmade 93mm piggyback XD shocks, body and accs, rear and front bumper, no more plastic parts, except for the body and accs, and yes its pretty heavy with hard pack lipo and 2 servos
and still I can not decide what to choose...
really need advice for the combo with gearing and weight of my rig

thanks

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When you said the weight I was thinking of a big 6x6 or larger scale. With the space constraints of a scx10 I would absolutely choose the mamba x. Sorry to have a change of heart, but knowing the rig changes things a bit. Space is tight on the scx10. The od/ud you are running is going to tax the motor and generate some extra heat. Just pay attention to it at first to prevent damage to the motor. Gearing will be crucial to prevent damage. I would run a 2700kv or slower rpm motor. The puller pro 2700kv would be my motor of choice.

If it gets hot goto a smaller pinion. Is that a 48p gearset?

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yes its 48P gearset, change the 60/15 32P rc4wd to 87/14 48P, or should I go back to 60/15?
and I already have puller pro 2200kv

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regular mamba X. See next response

Indeed, take their recommendations with a grain of salt. They don't have a lot of experience with crawlers "in house" and don't know where to draw the lines yet. I've been getting calls from their tech support for over a decade :ror:

No problem, glad to be able to help when I can "thumbsup"

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thank you very much rob, you are awesome
and thank you to all of you, I'll go with the regular X :ror: