Axial ae5 esc lipo cut off not working.

[nurgs]

I got a second hand bond and my 4 year old son uses it mostly. He has driven it till its stopped and in doing so has dropped 2 3s lipos to well below 9v total, around 2.4v each cell. Batteries are gone I assume but my question is.
Is the esc all so gone and I replace it? If so I have another old ae5 I can swap it for but also have a brand new hobbywing 80A crawler brushed esc I can put in.
What my best option.
Thanks

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[Ninomaniac]

If you already have the 1080, why not stick that in?

[nurgs]

Originally Posted by Ninomaniac

If you already have the 1080, why not stick that in?

Was going to use it elsewhere where but that can wait if need be

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[magic_yeti]

did you setup the ae5 for lipo? its just a jumper on the esc. cause it sounds like it's setup for nimh instead of lipo.
here a link to the instructions http://docs.axialracing.com/instruct...Drag_Brake.pdf

[nurgs]

Originally Posted by magic_yeti

did you setup the ae5 for lipo? its just a jumper on the esc. cause it sounds like it's setup for nimh instead of lipo.
here a link to the instructions http://docs.axialracing.com/instruct...Drag_Brake.pdf

It's for lipo I did check that I've got 2 more on other rigs. That was my first thought.

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[Jim85IROC]

This seems to be a recurring theme with Hobbywing ESCs. I read a thread recently where somebody was having the same problem with one of the brushless ones, and I've had the same problem with a couple of my Hobbywing clone ESCs (X-Car 120A), and with one of my Hobbywing ESCs. In my case and in the case of the other thread I was reading, the cutoff is kicking in too early, but none the less, it seems fairly common for the Hobbywing ESCs to have cutoff issues.

If the ESC is otherwise functional, I'd just get an external alarm and call it good. I tend to prefer the external alarms anyway, because it always seems like my cutoff would kick in when the car is a mile away from me or in a hard to reach spot. With the alarm, at least I can drive it back to me.

[nurgs]

Originally Posted by Jim85IROC

This seems to be a recurring theme with Hobbywing ESCs. I read a thread recently where somebody was having the same problem with one of the brushless ones, and I've had the same problem with a couple of my Hobbywing clone ESCs (X-Car 120A), and with one of my Hobbywing ESCs. In my case and in the case of the other thread I was reading, the cutoff is kicking in too early, but none the less, it seems fairly common for the Hobbywing ESCs to have cutoff issues.

If the ESC is otherwise functional, I'd just get an external alarm and call it good. I tend to prefer the external alarms anyway, because it always seems like my cutoff would kick in when the car is a mile away from me or in a hard to reach spot. With the alarm, at least I can drive it back to me.

This is a good idea for me but my some and wife want to be able to put a battery in and play when I'm not home so that probably won't happen lol I need it to be fool proof. So far I'm thinking ditch the ea5 and put in the 1080.

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[JatoTheRipper]

Originally Posted by Jim85IROC

This seems to be a recurring theme with Hobbywing ESCs. I read a thread recently where somebody was having the same problem with one of the brushless ones, and I've had the same problem with a couple of my Hobbywing clone ESCs (X-Car 120A), and with one of my Hobbywing ESCs. In my case and in the case of the other thread I was reading, the cutoff is kicking in too early, but none the less, it seems fairly common for the Hobbywing ESCs to have cutoff issues.

If the ESC is otherwise functional, I'd just get an external alarm and call it good. I tend to prefer the external alarms anyway, because it always seems like my cutoff would kick in when the car is a mile away from me or in a hard to reach spot. With the alarm, at least I can drive it back to me.

The HobbyKing clone is not HobbyWing so that shouldn't even be in this discussion. It is not of the same quality as a HobbyWing ESC.

People may not like the cut-off levels of the HobbyWing ESCs, but that doesn't mean they don't work.

The AE-5 is a POS. Trash it and put in your HobbyWing 1080.

[moondaddy]

The problem is your son drove it till it stopped. Lvc hits and drops throttle to 50%, being only 4 he wouldn't notice the slow down. I've done this myself and had to rez my batteries with nimh mode on my charger. Easiest way to check would be take a battery that's close to what lvc should be and see if the esc cuts power or not

[Jim85IROC]

Originally Posted by JatoTheRipper

The HobbyKing clone is not HobbyWing so that shouldn't even be in this discussion. It is not of the same quality as a HobbyWing ESC.

if it's a fundamental flaw in the design, then it's completely relevant that the behavior is seen in the clones too.

[JatoTheRipper]

Originally Posted by Jim85IROC

if it's a fundamental flaw in the design, then it's completely relevant that the behavior is seen in the clones too.

Not necessarily. Clones are not always perfect duplicates.

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[nurgs]

Originally Posted by moondaddy

The problem is your son drove it till it stopped. Lvc hits and drops throttle to 50%, being only 4 he wouldn't notice the slow down. I've done this myself and had to rez my batteries with nimh mode on my charger. Easiest way to check would be take a battery that's close to what lvc should be and see if the esc cuts power or not

Will I have he same issue with the 1080? Or is the cut off on it more noticeable? Is there an esc that kills the power totally instead of dropping it?

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