Hobbywing 1080 settings

[JatoTheRipper]

Originally Posted by Jboucher

It's really a shame the hobbywing Bluetooth module dosen't work with the 1080.
I would buy it for my Bomber since it's so damn annoying to get to the program port inside the cage...

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It would be nice, but there's a much cheaper solution. Buy yourself a servo extension wire and keep it on the ESC. Zip tie the other end where it's easily accessible without any disassembly. Mine is inside the battery compartment.

You can do this with the 1080 because the programming card plugs into the fan port.

[Jboucher]

Originally Posted by JatoTheRipper

It would be nice, but there's a much cheaper solution. Buy yourself a servo extension wire and keep it on the ESC. Zip tie the other end where it's easily accessible without any disassembly. Mine is inside the battery compartment.

You can do this with the 1080 because the programming card plugs into the fan port.

I tried that with the supplied cable but my programming port is so loose that any vibration will unplug the cable.

I might have to glue it there...

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[JatoTheRipper]

Originally Posted by Jboucher

I tried that with the supplied cable but my programming port is so loose that any vibration will unplug the cable.

I might have to glue it there...

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Odd. Did it come that way out of the box or is the cable worn out?

A dab of E6000 or Shoe Goo should hold it on and still be removable when needed.

[Jboucher]

It came that way from hobbywing. It holds very very lightly in the fan port.
Could be the cable but i don't have another one to test it.

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[Inspector86]

Originally Posted by JatoTheRipper

It would be nice, but there's a much cheaper solution. Buy yourself a servo extension wire and keep it on the ESC. Zip tie the other end where it's easily accessible without any disassembly. Mine is inside the battery compartment.

You can do this with the 1080 because the programming card plugs into the fan port.

Jato I wonder, do you see any noticable reduction in run time by keeping the programming card powered up? Any extra heat?

[JatoTheRipper]

Originally Posted by Inspector86

Jato I wonder, do you see any noticable reduction in run time by keeping the programming card powered up? Any extra heat?

I don't keep mine connected. I was just suggesting to jboucher that he could leave the cable, not the programming card itself, attached to the ESC for ease of access for programming.

[Rekreant]

Originally Posted by Inspector86

Jato I wonder, do you see any noticable reduction in run time by keeping the programming card powered up? Any extra heat?

LCD screens are extremely low draw, something in the microamp range. Remember in the old days we had these things called calculators, and they would have a tiny "solar" panel that was able to power it via ambient lighting? I know that I personally always use my Venom LVC module and cannot notice any appreciable difference in runtimes, even on my Slash that drains a 2s battery in 20ish minutes.

[Rekreant]

Also on leaving the cable attached, a post in the other 1080 thread mentioned having bent the pins because of leaving a cable attached, so a little food for thought.

[JatoTheRipper]

Originally Posted by Rekreant

Also on leaving the cable attached, a post in the other 1080 thread mentioned having bent the pins because of leaving a cable attached, so a little food for thought.

That was me. My pins bent because I didn't have the cable fixed and it fell off the chassis and got tangled on the tire. Properly attaching it to the chassis should prevent bent pins.

[Inspector86]

OK, I just leave my cable attached to the programming card.

[JatoTheRipper]

Originally Posted by Inspector86

OK, I just leave my cable attached to the programming card.

I do too. But during that testing stage when I was trying to get the ESC settings right I left the cable plugged in. It is a nice option to have though when your ESC is in hard to reach spots like on the Bomber.

[Jboucher]

Yeah, next time i open it up, i will glue the cable in there.

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[durok]

I love the 1080 QuicRun, mine is mounted upside down on the middle of my steel transverse BPC LiPo tray on my Ascender K10 - it's completely out of the way of the suspension.

Mounting it like that does make it a little harder to get at, but the weight could hardly be placed any lower...

...and if it gets wet (I know they are listed as waterproof, but still!) the water drains out of where the pinouts are, 'cause - well, it's upside down!

Used 3M industrial double-sided sticky tape.

[2mtech]

Originally Posted by durok

I love the 1080 QuicRun, mine is mounted upside down on the middle of my steel transverse BPC LiPo tray on my Ascender K10 - it's completely out of the way of the suspension.

Mounting it like that does make it a little harder to get at, but the weight could hardly be placed any lower...

...and if it gets wet (I know they are listed as waterproof, but still!) the water drains out of where the pinouts are, 'cause - well, it's upside down!

Used 3M industrial double-sided sticky tape.

[durok]

Originally Posted by 2mtech

Basically, it's right about where a 1:1 engine would be and all the wiring goes straight up and away - I have no electronics mounted behind it other than the motor in its stock location, receiver & power button are next to servo up front... I've beat all hell outta it and it's holding up fine!

1st photo is from underneath, 2nd is from the front, down low:

[cartronicshn]

Quick question, doesn't having the esc in that position defeat the work of the cooling fins? i mean the esc components are designed as to have warmer air flow upwards and leave the case through the fins? am i wrong? on another note , i just tested my 1080 on the tactical trx4 and the starup power at setting 1 and it was much smoother then the xl5 unit.

[durok]

Well - technically it's at an angle, and airflow while driving reaches it more easily than if it was hiding deep inside the bodyshell anyways...

It never gets more than slightly warm to the touch setup the way it is.

My Castle Mamba X in my Bomber gets MUCH hotter, and it points upwards.

You're overthinking it a bit, my friend - plenty of things in the real world have downward-aimed cooling fins...

[Efunkmedallion]

Originally Posted by Oh How Original

Anyone else got any SCX10 II specific settings?
My ESC seems very jerky, running a HH motor on 3s with a Castle BEC, my Bomber is super smooth, but no drag brake so don't want to copy that set up as it's set for speed, not crawling.

Hey this may be a dumb question, but I just bought the HW1080 and intended to use my Castle BEC with it. So I soldered my BEC wires to the ESC battery plug terminals like I always do. I'm using a Holmes Hobbies bypass instead of removing the red wire on the ESC. When I go to turn on the ESC I get two beeps and then the led light on the ESC flashes rapidly forever. If you try going into calibration mode from there using the set button it doesn't work.

So I figured maybe something was wrong with the ESC. Then I tried just running the ESC normally, plugging the ESC directly into my RX and not using the CCBEC / HH bypass and it worked perfectly...

So for now I am going to try just using my rig without the BEC and see if the built in one will work out. I am running a Savox1210sg which is only 277inoz at 6v so I don't think it will be a problem with brown out... But sort of bummed because I always run a BEC on my rigs. Also might upgrade to a monster servo 500inoz soon..

I'm using a 3s 20c battery 5000mah.

I have looked around and asked several people and still can't figure it out. Any suggestions?

[Jboucher]

The 1080 has a beefy internal BEC, no need for more.

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[Efunkmedallion]

Originally Posted by Jboucher

The 1080 has a beefy internal BEC, no need for more.

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I used the internal BEC for awhile on 6V and it worked flawlessly.

However, I did go back at it and re-installed the CC BEC. The second time I got everything working perfectly and using my HH RX bypass harness. Had zero issues programming the ESC and was a breeze. I also added a winch and more lights so I really wanted it installed.

I am now running 7.4V to my servo on the CC BEC and the 1210SG turns into a torque beast. And I can still run the internal BEC on the HW1080WP at 6V so I don't fry my receiver.

I wonder if I had a bad solder the first time, although everything was lighting up on my BEC so I don't think that was it. Maybe I was wiring something wrong and it was late at night...