Throttle cuts in and out when accelerating.

[Kweez]

Running a carisma coyote 7.2v nihm battery. In the the middle of play and went to throttle and it started to cut in and out. Is the esc going to shit? If I'd ease into the throttle it would be ok but if i throttle hard It cuts out. What's the issue?

[magic_yeti]

Sound like the battery couldn't deliver the power that the ESC demands.

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[Voodoobrew]

You sure you don't have the esc set to lipo?


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[Kweez]

Yes set to nihm. I also have a external bec installed. And I'm sure my onxy 5000mah nihm is delivering what it needs. Could it be the esc is starting to go?

[Xx Losungen xX]

Could be brushes right at the end of their life too.

[Kweez]

So got to

[Kweez]

Yep didnt mean to send that lol. Also when I pick up the rc and hit the throttle it operates just fine. But when I set it down it cuts out at full throttle and becomes jittery.

[Voodoobrew]

Definitely sounds like a voltage drop issue and the electronics are reacting to it. Nmh don't deliver the same amps that lipo's can. Not sure if there are any issues anywhere except the battery. Maybe a jutter buster capacitor will fix it.

[Kweez]

Could it be the bec I wired in? Or would it be because the battery was getting to low and the bec was just doing what its suppose to do?

[CM9000]

does it do this at full charge?

[Kweez]

No not that I've noticed. Also noticed my receiver got moisture in it.

[Voodoobrew]

Nimh battery, this os one of the reasons people swich to lipo. Your just asking for more power than the battery can dish out. Say you have a 12v battery and you ease on the throttle, you get 12v@1amp to the motor. But when you mash the throttle you have a higher amp draw if the battery is awesome you still get 12v but it's at 10amps now. If your battery is weaker but still fully charged at 12v and you apply full throttle it's still wanting the high amp draw but the batter can't release it fast enough, so you get like 8v@9amps. But if you check the battery voltage it's still going to show 12v, but that's because volt meters have almost no amp draw. Numbers are kinda random but hop it helps. Basicaly the voltage in the battery dips for a second only while your accelerating. Acellerate slower and there is less amp draw and no problem.

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[Greatscott]

What ESC/motor are you running?

[Kweez]

Carisma 1040 esc and carisma 35t. All stock items.

[Voodoobrew]

If that is a rebranded hw 1040 it probably has accelerating limiting that will hide the issue.

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[Voodoobrew]

If you change the setting

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[Kweez]

Besides castle and Holmes. What are good Tesco's for brushed motors? Looking to just replace them. Or would a hw1080 be better

[Voodoobrew]

Hobbywing 1080 is good, so are the teakins, and the castle mamba series. Holmes hobbies if they ever got the newer break upgrade would be good too. But they might not fix this issue.

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[Kweez]

Definitely interested in the mamba x. But dont want to pay the $$$. Looking for something to program to get a scale crawl without killing the esc. Or something really close. Would a hw1080 handle the amp draw required to scale crawl like that. And when it comes to gearing do all the gears have to be the same throughout the tranny and axles?

[Voodoobrew]

If the esc is getting hot get the Hw1080. If it's not getting hot, try using a lipo battery and change the battery setting cutoff to lipo. You could also get a 1080 just cause it's programmable. But the issue is probably your battery not your esc. If it was the esc the issue would probably happen with a full battery also.

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