Tekin 35t hd up n smoke help plz

[Rccrawler1232]

So I just got my build done scx10 all metal 1080 esc reefs 422hd servo tekin 35t hd motor and gens ace 3s 11.1 volt 4000 mah first time out today worked out wonderful till i had to get ready for work and went to rap up everything so Im driving it back towards me and it looks like there was some smoke coming from my truck it smells burnt but just the motor does its brand new first run but the kicker here is theres nothing I can see burnt??? So I cleaned it off and figured I'd see if it runs still and it does but the smell it's got me to the point I'm not sure to run it or what what do you all think I should do here suggestions plz thank you

[Voodoobrew]

Stock gearing? The motors can get hot depending on how much resistance they encounter. My guess is you had the spur and pinion too tight. There should be a tiny amount of play play between them.


Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

[Voodoobrew]

The motor may still work. Possibly not as well but good enough. When you loosen the motor up you can check that the drive train spins freely as well.

If you have a big pinion and fast car they will over heat when you try to crawl in the rocks.

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

[Rccrawler1232]

the motor still works stock gearing btw guess just run it and get my money out of it thank you guys

[Natedog]

Great suggestions Voodoobrew!
Rccrawler1232, welcome to RCC , loosen the motor and check for drivetrains binding before running again or the next run maybe the motors last run. Proper motor break in helps too, I run em on1.5v flashlight battery in glass of water for long enough to seat the brushes which is motor dependent. Remove from water, shake/blow the water out, line the bearings/bushings and good to go.

[HumboldtEF]

Tekin has a nice article laying out some motor maintenance basics https://www.teamtekin.com/brushed_maintenance.html

My guess is that you may have some binding somewhere. Like suggested check the pinion and spur mesh at the motor, I'd also check the wheels too to make sure they aren't rubbing and causing resistance.

If you did cook the motor my guess is that the commutator is what got burned, If the copper windings (wire) have turned from copper color to black then it got too hot.

Before replacing it you'll want to track down the culprit or the next motor may suffer the same fate.

[fyrstormer]

It is not necessary to run a rebuildable motor in water for break-in purposes, and in fact that will wear-out the brushes prematurely. Rebuildable motors use much softer brushes than throwaway motors, because softer brushes provide better conductivity, and brush lifespan is not a big concern for rebuildable motors. You aren't guaranteed to damage a rebuildable motor by running it in water for break-in purposes, but damage is more likely than if you didn't do that step. Over the years I've eventually concluded it's pointless for any context other than racing in a stock brushed class that uses throwaway motors. 2 minutes of actual driving will seat the brushes much more effectively in any rebuildable motor.

Without more information about the OP's truck, it's impossible to say what went wrong. It could be:
- The gears were too tight (there should always be a tiny amount of wiggle)
- The gear ratio was too high
- He was punching the throttle too often to pop wheelies
- The motor is in a bad spot that has no airflow
- The motor was shimmed too tightly internally (the spindle should always be able to slide a tiny bit)
- The commutator was clocked in the wrong direction and the brush timing was retarded instead of advanced
- The brush springs were too soft and allowed the brushes to spark too much
- There's a badly binding shaft somewhere in the drivetrain
- His "all metal" truck is too damn heavy for the motor he selected
- Etc...

Anyway, if the motor smells like burning electronics, it may still work but its days are numbered. It's likely that the resin binding the armature coils together has been weakened, and one of the wires will probably snap from centrifugal force when the motor is spinning fast. (that's happened to me many times in the past.) And if the commutator surface has turned the color of brass, you can basically kiss the motor goodbye; the commutator will start to fall apart in short order after being overheated that badly.

[Natedog]

All good points, but water break in its best ime ymmv, that’s why you need to keep a close eye on it during the process. Also as Fyrstormer said, when s motor smokes the insulating windings are usually soon to fail and magnets lose strength. Either way needs to find root cause before just replacing motor.

OP, how’s this coming along?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk