Servo recommendations for 6v.

[Oh How Original]

Looking for some servo recommendations for running 6v.
I know most say go 7.4 or 8.4, but my lights are designed for 6v and my current servo runs 6v and I am pretty happy with it, but would like a bit more power, so looking to you guys to save me searching every servo checking voltages
Budget around $100.

[Panther6834]

For anyone to help, it would cost help if people knew what the vehicle is?

~ More peace, love, laughter & kindness would make the world a MUCH better place

[Oh How Original]

Originally Posted by Panther6834

For anyone to help, it would cost help if people knew what the vehicle is?

~ More peace, love, laughter & kindness would make the world a MUCH better place

Well it's just a standard size for my Unimog project, based on SCX10ii
Torque more important than speed.

[magic_yeti]

The question ist how much torque you are looking for?


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[svt923]

I would rather run the servo on higher voltage and get a cheap BEC (a 10 second ebay search says this would run about $5-10) to drop the voltage for the lights.

[Oh How Original]

Originally Posted by svt923

I would rather run the servo on higher voltage and get a cheap BEC (a 10 second ebay search says this would run about $5-10) to drop the voltage for the lights.

I suspect I'm going to run out of receiver space to be honest.
I normally use Castle BECs in my rigs, but for argument sake, just seeing what is suggested and going from there, trying to work out my elecs ahead of time.

[TheLetterJ]

Savox sg1230 will give you 500oz at 6v.

[Inspector86]

Originally Posted by TheLetterJ

Savox sg1230 will give you 500oz at 6v.

He beat me to it! X2 on the Savox 1230SG.

[Icehawk]

Or a 2290, it's a beast at 6v - I have mine off a BEC but haven't bothered to crank it up (stockish TRX). It's also pretty fast which is nice. Will run you more like $125 but I think the extra cash is well spent.

[TheLetterJ]

...but he said up to $100. Otherwise I would have said Futaba A700 which puts out 944oz at 6v.

I've had cheaper servos that put out good power at 6v, but the 1230 has been loads more reliable than them and isn't terribly priced at around $70. The Promodeler 420 and 470 have great build quality, and meet the pricepoint, but once the honeymoon phase was over, I haven't been impressed with their torque. The 470 honestly seems weaker than the 420. Since the OP is looking for more torque (than what, I don't know?) I'd still say the 1230 is a good fit for his criteria.

[Jim85IROC]

Originally Posted by svt923

I would rather run the servo on higher voltage and get a cheap BEC (a 10 second ebay search says this would run about $5-10) to drop the voltage for the lights.

Change your search terms to "buck converter" and the price falls to about $0.75

[Jim85IROC]

Originally Posted by Oh How Original

I suspect I'm going to run out of receiver space to be honest.
I normally use Castle BECs in my rigs, but for argument sake, just seeing what is suggested and going from there, trying to work out my elecs ahead of time.

Instead of running all of these accessories through the receiver, I like to wire an aux power line off the back side of my battery plug on the ESC. From that I can run all kinds of accessories, and if it's an accessory that needs something less than battery voltage, it's super easy to run an inline buck converter (like I mentioned above) to bring that voltage down to anything you need.

[Oh How Original]

Thanks for the suggestions, I had seen the Savox and I am a big fan of Savox, so that will most likely be the way I go.
I've seen the Promodeler servos too, but I've also seen many many people disappointed in the power and their customer service seems a poor effort as well.
Similarly, I wouldn't touch Reefs either, seen way too many of them break prematurely or just not seem as powerful as stated.

Running a power lead into my ESC wires I also don't really think is an option for me, just because I run switches in the wires for the ability to turn things on/off on my transmitter.
I'm unsure if this would be possible with your suggested set up.
I really think I need to get myself the DX5, but the rx's are so expensive!

[TheLetterJ]

I just saw what looks to be a new servo on RPP's sight: Savox 1212sg that might be an even better contender than a 1230 https://www.rpphobby.com/product_p/savsw1212sg.htm

Specs:
This waterproof, steel-geared servo is perfect for Monster Truck and most Scaler and Crawler applications where a slightly taller servo can be fitted. Precision steel gears, stump-pulling torque, and waterproof to IP67 standards (operates for up to 30 minutes in water up to 3 feet deep).

Features:
Center aluminum with nylon composite top and bottom case
Operates directly on 7.4v without the need for an external BEC
Precision ball bearings

Specifications:
Torque @6.0V - 36.0 kg/500 oz-in
Torque @7.4v - 46.0 kg/638 oz-in
Speed @6.0V - 0.17 sec/60 deg
Speed @7.4v - 0.14 sec/60 deg
Weight: 83g / 3.27oz
Dimensions L x W x H mm: 40.6 x 20.7 x 46.1
Operating Temperature: 14° - 122°F (-10° - 50°C)
Running Current (no load): 120mA @6.0V, 150mA @7.4V
Stall Current (at locked): 8200mA @6.0V, 10000mA @7.4V
Idle Current: 5mA @6.0V, 5mA @7.4V
Wire Length: 400 +/- 5mm
Output Gear Spline: 25 Tooth
Bearings: 2BB
Operating Travel: 100° (1000 → 2000 µ second)
Neutral Position: 1500 µ second
Pulse Width Range: 800 → 2200 µ second
Maximum Travel: Appx 130° (900 → 2100 µ second)
Refresh Rate: 333 Hz
Motor Type: Coreless

[Jim85IROC]

Originally Posted by Oh How Original

Running a power lead into my ESC wires I also don't really think is an option for me, just because I run switches in the wires for the ability to turn things on/off on my transmitter.
I'm unsure if this would be possible with your suggested set up.
I really think I need to get myself the DX5, but the rx's are so expensive!

It's quite possible, you just need a different type of switch. Instead of an inline switch that sources its power directly from the receiver, you need a relay style switch that uses the receiver signal to switch the external power. I always prefer this style anyway because it's not forcing the servo to share power with all of your accessories. These are called "receiver controlled switches".

Another option, which may be easier in the long run if you like to control a ton of external stuff via your remote, is to power the servo with its own BEC. This lets you get the most out of your servo, and still use your receiver to power all of the other stuff.

[Oh How Original]

Originally Posted by TheLetterJ

I just saw what looks to be a new servo on RPP's sight: Savox 1212sg that might be an even better contender than a 1230 https://www.rpphobby.com/product_p/savsw1212sg.htm

Specs:
This waterproof, steel-geared servo is perfect for Monster Truck and most Scaler and Crawler applications where a slightly taller servo can be fitted. Precision steel gears, stump-pulling torque, and waterproof to IP67 standards (operates for up to 30 minutes in water up to 3 feet deep).

Features:
Center aluminum with nylon composite top and bottom case
Operates directly on 7.4v without the need for an external BEC
Precision ball bearings

Specifications:
Torque @6.0V - 36.0 kg/500 oz-in
Torque @7.4v - 46.0 kg/638 oz-in
Speed @6.0V - 0.17 sec/60 deg
Speed @7.4v - 0.14 sec/60 deg
Weight: 83g / 3.27oz
Dimensions L x W x H mm: 40.6 x 20.7 x 46.1
Operating Temperature: 14° - 122°F (-10° - 50°C)
Running Current (no load): 120mA @6.0V, 150mA @7.4V
Stall Current (at locked): 8200mA @6.0V, 10000mA @7.4V
Idle Current: 5mA @6.0V, 5mA @7.4V
Wire Length: 400 +/- 5mm
Output Gear Spline: 25 Tooth
Bearings: 2BB
Operating Travel: 100° (1000 → 2000 µ second)
Neutral Position: 1500 µ second
Pulse Width Range: 800 → 2200 µ second
Maximum Travel: Appx 130° (900 → 2100 µ second)
Refresh Rate: 333 Hz
Motor Type: Coreless

That looks very very good and waterproof.
I was also looking at the 2290, it's a little bit over what I originally wanted to spend, but it's impressive in specs.

Originally Posted by Jim85IROC

It's quite possible, you just need a different type of switch. Instead of an inline switch that sources its power directly from the receiver, you need a relay style switch that uses the receiver signal to switch the external power. I always prefer this style anyway because it's not forcing the servo to share power with all of your accessories. These are called "receiver controlled switches".

Another option, which may be easier in the long run if you like to control a ton of external stuff via your remote, is to power the servo with its own BEC. This lets you get the most out of your servo, and still use your receiver to power all of the other stuff.

My problem is I have my 'normal' lights in one channel and then my spotlights/lightbar in another so they don't need to all be on at the same time.
If I have understood it right, you're suggesting I have one or the other on all the time?
That might be an option, just for the normal running lights, I have them on most of the time anyway.
Thanks for the suggestion, I hadn't really thought about doing it that way.

[heyok]

There have been many solutions posted. May I offer another idea - it might not be right for you but maybe worth thinking about.
I like to run the steering servo from its own BEC and let the ESC's BEC run the receiver and a few less power-hungry accessories (like lighting).

This part makes it really easy to do, especially if you would prefer to not do any soldering:

No Brainer BEC

[Jim85IROC]

No, I'm not suggesting that at all. I'm just suggesting that you utilize a different style switch that divorces the power source from the receiver. Running all those lights and your servo from the receiver is robbing your servo of power, because all of your power is coming from the ESC's built in BEC. It's not a big deal for little running lights, but light bars tend to suck a lot of current, so you're robbing that power from your servo. By using a receiver controlled switch like I mentioned above, the receiver channel still turns the accessory on and off, but the power comes directly from the battery (through a separate BEC/buck converter if required) instead of from the ESC via the receiver. This leaves the ESC's bec to power just the servo and the receiver itself.

Alternately, you can keep everything how it is now, but power the servo separately with it's own BEC. This accomplishes the same thing.

[heyok]

Originally Posted by Jim85IROC

..snip.. I'm just suggesting that you utilize a different style switch that divorces the power source from the receiver. .

Just an example of what you are talking about:

RC Lighting Control Using External Power

[Oh How Original]

I have opened a can of worms here!
I must be honest, it's kinda new to me, the whole adding extras for different power sources and such, but I do feel it'll give me the best performance possible and that's really what I would like to achieve.
Jim, I don't suppose you could take a picture or two of your wiring set up could you?
Just to make it a little easier to follow.
It seems like yours maybe the route I want to go!

Thanks to everyone for all the suggestions also!