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Thread: clod stall forever?????

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Old 07-14-2007, 12:50 PM   #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fly View Post
what are you running?
The Wheelchair
Is my rig.


Its not a clod but gear ratio means the same.

If you really want to stick to the raptor axles, a 75 turn lathe and the smallest pinion you can get your hands on would be the best but your still not going to get the really good runtime.
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Old 07-14-2007, 12:51 PM   #42
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thanks for all your help.
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Old 07-15-2007, 09:12 AM   #43
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 666 View Post
I run 2 esc's, one battery, if you run 2 packs the rear pack will discharge faster because it draws the most amps trying to push the rig around.
You are also supposed to run one battery to make both motors run at the same speed.


If you want to run two packs because of the added runtime you are supposed to wire them in parallel and run it as one battery connected to both ESC's, especially for brushless. Doing so will make the motors spin at the same speed so they dont fight each other and give you more usable amps.

Last edited by HndsWthtShdws; 07-15-2007 at 09:16 AM.
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Old 07-15-2007, 09:26 AM   #44
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The only way to really fight clod stall is to have independent throttle or more powerful motors. I have Crawlmasters in my rig and I still get some clodstall from loading and unloading of the wheels but it isn't anywhere near as bad as a lathe type motor. It isn't a big deal to dial up the front or rear a bit more though, seeing how I have a stick radio.
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Old 07-16-2007, 06:03 PM   #45
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And I bet The Wheelchair can go where you couldn't dream.

Dude, you have no idea~~~
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Old 10-30-2007, 12:28 PM   #46
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Are the optional gears for the Raptor axles to gear them lower?
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Old 10-30-2007, 12:55 PM   #47
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I've been running my 2.2 Clod with 65t, 9t Pinions and 11.1v pack. Dual Mamba Max's.... I've set up my Mamba Max's a little different. I have my Front kick in a hair before the Rear does. I built in a Clod stall....lol, But only when I go foward. Now when I'm going in reverse I have the Rear start a hair before the Front does.

With Brushed Motors. I have found out if you Gear Low and Volt up. Clod stall is harder to make happen. But you will still see it happen time to time. If you want to be able to control the Stall. Get a DX6 and control each axle the way you want. If it starts to Stall out then. Just give that axle more Power.... But that takes pratice and isn't easy for everyone.
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Old 10-30-2007, 03:42 PM   #48
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it may sound stupid but check your radio settings i dumped mine and started over and now it rocks but i pushing 12 volts now and i blew the front gears and the kongs spin mercifully i ran 6volts for run time 3 1/2 hours move up to 12 and kept getting jitters so i dumped the settings on the controller and the super rooster and vola gears let go pulling my kid
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Old 01-31-2008, 10:54 PM   #49
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How come no one here uses the e maxx esc. I do in my clod and never had clod stall once. if I did it was minimal. My sons clod has the Titan esc and stalls bad. I am about to order another e maxx esc to put in his.
I run 55t lathe motors in mine with 8 tooth pinions, 2 3300mah batteries and never has my motors,esc even become closely hot. I also get about an hour and a half run time out of it. I love it. and when we play in the house with them, I can go all day on one charge. we set up some old cars and pillows and do a kinda monster Jam thing.
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Old 02-01-2008, 12:17 AM   #50
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lurzboy View Post
How come no one here uses the e maxx esc. I do in my clod and never had clod stall once. if I did it was minimal. My sons clod has the Titan esc and stalls bad. I am about to order another e maxx esc to put in his.
I run 55t lathe motors in mine with 8 tooth pinions, 2 3300mah batteries and never has my motors,esc even become closely hot. I also get about an hour and a half run time out of it. I love it. and when we play in the house with them, I can go all day on one charge. we set up some old cars and pillows and do a kinda monster Jam thing.
I too use the maxx esc, only cause I got a smokin' deal on it (bought the truck cheep, pulled the esc and sold the roller for more!). I am currently running 2 75t integy crawlers with 9 tooth pinions and a 2300 9.9v a123 batt for about 25 mins of good power, 30 mins of running time. I have experienced clod stall, but it isn't nearly as bad with the 75's as it was with 55's.
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Old 02-01-2008, 12:39 PM   #51
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Quote:
Originally Posted by krikir View Post
Are the optional gears for the Raptor axles to gear them lower?
The opional gears are hardened but the same ratio. IMO even with a 6t the Raptor axles are geared too high for any super sized tires. Could try a GRU, either the new ball bearing inline unit from RC4WD or the GD600 from Tower.
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Old 03-04-2008, 03:26 PM   #52
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I have questions regarding this topic.

Here are my current specs:
2.2 pimp cane with clod axles
Axiom 65 turns
8 tooth pinions front and rear
Mamba Max ESC
CC BEC
3S Lipo 11.4volts (just one)
DUD rear dig
JR XR3i TX and JR RX

My question is this: Would adding a second Mamba Max to run the rear motor, using a Y Harness (so both esc's would receive the same signal on the same channel) off the RX fix clod stall?

Does the second ESC have to be run independent off another channel? I have a DX6 for my pimp cane super, but really prefer the pistol grip, especially on my 2.2.
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Old 03-04-2008, 04:57 PM   #53
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I should delete this thread for all the misinformation............

Clod stall is caused by differing loads on each motor. Each motor recieves a set voltage from the esc for any givin point on the throttle. For example lets say that 1/4 throttle deliveres 2 volts to the motor. This will only produce a set amount of amps, amps=torque. So now you have 2 motors putting out a set amount of torque. While climbing the rear receives more load. If this load exceeds the amount of torque the motor will stall. In a clod the rear will get more load durring a climb, so while the torque supplied by said 2 volts isn't enough to power the more heavily loaded rear it is enough to spin the front. Stall.

So if you just add another esc with a y harness this is what happens, you give the truck 1/4 throttle, the esc's get the same signal, they send 2 volts to the motors. No difference. Waisted ESC.

While driving there is an infinite variable of load between the front and rear. No setup will automaticly adjust for this, only slight compensation can be achieved.

The only cure is to learn to drive a twin stick radio with no mixing. You control both esc's all the time. Thats what I do, it works extremely well for me. It also opens up a whole new world of abilities to the world of compitition.

That is my novel and the last time I will explain it.
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Old 03-04-2008, 05:17 PM   #54
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kamikaze View Post
I should delete this thread for all the misinformation............

Clod stall is caused by differing loads on each motor. Each motor recieves a set voltage from the esc for any givin point on the throttle. For example lets say that 1/4 throttle deliveres 2 volts to the motor. This will only produce a set amount of amps, amps=torque. So now you have 2 motors putting out a set amount of torque. While climbing the rear receives more load. If this load exceeds the amount of torque the motor will stall. In a clod the rear will get more load durring a climb, so while the torque supplied by said 2 volts isn't enough to power the more heavily loaded rear it is enough to spin the front. Stall.

So if you just add another esc with a y harness this is what happens, you give the truck 1/4 throttle, the esc's get the same signal, they send 2 volts to the motors. No difference. Waisted ESC.

While driving there is an infinite variable of load between the front and rear. No setup will automaticly adjust for this, only slight compensation can be achieved.

The only cure is to learn to drive a twin stick radio with no mixing. You control both esc's all the time. Thats what I do, it works extremely well for me. It also opens up a whole new world of abilities to the world of compitition.

That is my novel and the last time I will explain it.
Thank you, thank you, thank you. Finally, a straight forward honest answer and it was explained technically. I assumed that was the correct answer before I posted it but wasn't sure. Thank you Kamikaze for clearing that up.

BTW, I agree with you about deleting the post.
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Old 03-04-2008, 05:19 PM   #55
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Not a problem. Glad you appreciate it.
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Old 04-03-2008, 05:26 PM   #56
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Interesting. I just emailed rc4wd and they told me to put in 2 esc to cure my problem of (stair climbing). Not enough power to the rear wheels while the front spins. I was told to use a y harness with the 2nd esc. Or try a 10 tooth gear instead of stock. I'm running 65t motors and they said it should be enough power.
I still can't figure out if I need a hump pack for my receiver or if it should be ran with only the one pack. Novak super duty esc.
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Old 04-03-2008, 08:00 PM   #57
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kamikaze View Post
I should delete this thread for all the misinformation............

The only cure is to learn to drive a twin stick radio with no mixing. You control both esc's all the time. Thats what I do, it works extremely well for me. It also opens up a whole new world of abilities to the world of compitition.

That is my novel and the last time I will explain it.
according to you, what the best 2 esc for brushed motor for this configuration (except mamba max) is difficult to find mamba max in Indonesia :-(
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Old 04-03-2008, 08:20 PM   #58
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kamikaze View Post
I should delete this thread for all the misinformation............

Clod stall is caused by differing loads on each motor. Each motor receives a set voltage from the esc for any given point on the throttle. For example lets say that 1/4 throttle delivers 2 volts to the motor. This will only produce a set amount of amps, amps=torque. So now you have 2 motors putting out a set amount of torque. While climbing the rear receives more load. If this load exceeds the amount of torque the motor will stall. In a clod the rear will get more load during a climb, so while the torque supplied by said 2 volts isn't enough to power the more heavily loaded rear it is enough to spin the front. Stall.

So if you just add another esc with a y harness this is what happens, you give the truck 1/4 throttle, the esc's get the same signal, they send 2 volts to the motors. No difference. Waisted ESC.

While driving there is an infinite variable of load between the front and rear. No setup will automatically adjust for this, only slight compensation can be achieved.

The only cure is to learn to drive a twin stick radio with no mixing. You control both esc's all the time. Thats what I do, it works extremely well for me. It also opens up a whole new world of abilities to the world of competition.


That is my novel and the last time I will explain it.
Quote:
Originally Posted by David H View Post
Interesting. I just emailed rc4wd and they told me to put in 2 esc to cure my problem of (stair climbing). Not enough power to the rear wheels while the front spins. I was told to use a y harness with the 2nd esc. Or try a 10 tooth gear instead of stock. I'm running 65t motors and they said it should be enough power.
I still can't figure out if I need a hump pack for my receiver or if it should be ran with only the one pack. Novak super duty esc.
Listen to Kamikaze. I would not listen to anyone else in this situation. His information has proven true. Why would you believe RC4WD? They do not deal in electronics, only after market machined parts.
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Old 04-04-2008, 08:59 AM   #59
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Kamikaze, I think it would probably help if you were to delete all of the innaccurate posts in this thread.

Time for a Clod Stall FAQ sticky maybe?
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Old 04-04-2008, 09:25 AM   #60
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At this point I feel like I have tried to help out as much as I can. You can lead a horse to water but you can't make them drink.
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