What I'm doing to my ENDURO!

[durok]

Originally Posted by mikemcE

Well I’m a big bore fanboy, proudly, as you say they work, and don’t leak.

My take on these is a step up from dravtech/ big bore because of the threaded preload, vs o rings etc.
these are pricy if you build them up from parts the kit shocks are $70.00 plus a pair! Dravtechs are $37.00 pr

These were the real reason along with gears for doing the kit.

Thanks for the review!


Hang up and Drive

Originally Posted by CODYBOY

The Dravtechs are expensive, but IMO you get what you pay for.

Just to clarify, mikemcE was stating that the kit Element Sendero shocks are the pricier of the two - they are $33.99 just for the below parts:

qty 2 Shock Cap, black/blue aluminum
qty 2 Shock Spring Cup, black/blue aluminum
qty 2 Shock Bottom Cap, black/blue aluminum
qty 2 Shock Collar, black/blue aluminum

and another $18.70 for qty 2 aluminum shock bodies.

Then, you still need to add the shafts, o-rings, etc.

The Dravtechs are a relative bargain, but (as mikemcE stated) you don't get threaded shock bodies.

Still, I'll bet they are very nice - and getting the kit definitely softens the blow to your wallet by including them!

[mikemcE]

Durok for the score!!

Thats exactly it. Pistons, shafts, seals are almost the same between them. The Enduro bodys have the edge with threaded preload. If these shocks are as Associated shocks are, I wont go back!


Hang up and Drive

[HumboldtEF]

I just started on the transmission after spend a bit of time thinking about whether to mount it reversed or not. I decide flipping the motor position really didnt move things front to back much and having the motors weight on the left would be best for lessening torque twist or at least not working against it.

I found the bearing going into the piece on the right was very tight and it needs to be pressed in. I dont have a press but I was able to used a wood clamp to work it down until it seated, keep in mind it still sticks up a bit when fully seated.


I pray that bearing never needs replacing

[CODYBOY]

Originally Posted by HumboldtEF

I just started on the transmission after spend a bit of time thinking about whether to mount it reversed or not. I decide flipping the motor position really didnt move things front to back much and having the motors weight on the left would be best for lessening torque twist or at least not working against it.

I found the bearing going into the piece on the right was very tight and it needs to be pressed in. I dont have a press but I was able to used a wood clamp to work it down until it seated, keep in mind it still sticks up a bit when fully seated.


I pray that bearing never needs replacing

I found the same thing with mine Casey. I used my drill press to seat it. Finally figured out that it will not sit all the way into the drive. (Looks just like yours, but it still worked fine.
Ernie

[Shinchu]

Oh man... I'm SO EXCITED you guys are starting on your kits!!!

ENDUROS ASSEMBLE!!!!!!!

[HumboldtEF]

One other note on the metal gears for the tranny, these are really big hunks of metal! They also weigh in accordingly. I'm wondering if using the plastic gears that came with the tranny Kit (I ordered separately) is worth the weight savings, I'm not going brushless. For now I'll run the metal gears though.

The tranny all assembled (without the motor or spur gear cover) weighs in at a 1/2 lb

BACK TO ASSEMBLY!!!!!!

EDIT: they do not provide a pinion, I was assuming they would. Thats fine though I have plenty to choose from but probably not an 18T

The position of the spur gear makes lining up the pinion difficult without the right pinion even if you're installing it backwards like they show in the manual. Though this will vary from motor to motor as some shafts are longer. Even then (for me at least) its tight positioning the set screw out of the way of the spur which leaves it right at the end of the motor shaft barely holding on. I'd say the ideal pinion for these would have the teeth cut all the way though it without a step in it or one with a set screw that's out of the way.


oh and BLACK GOLD! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7k_-YlUoy14

[mikemcE]

A 32p swap might be a game changer. Associated makes a drop in 32p 54t drop in already.

https://www.associatedelectrics.com/..._gear_54t_32p/


Hang up and Drive

[MaX-D]

Originally Posted by Shinchu

ENDUROS ASSEMBLE!!!!!!!

That's awesome!!




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[MaX-D]

Originally Posted by mikemcE

A 32p swap might be a game changer. Associated makes a drop in 32p 54t drop in already.

https://www.associatedelectrics.com/..._gear_54t_32p/


Hang up and Drive

I prefer 32p. What size pinion?


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[CODYBOY]

Originally Posted by Shinchu

Oh man... I'm SO EXCITED you guys are starting on your kits!!!

ENDUROS ASSEMBLE!!!!!!!

Why would that be??? Me Too!

Originally Posted by HumboldtEF

One other note on the metal gears for the tranny, these are really big hunks of metal! They also weigh in accordingly. I'm wondering if using the plastic gears that came with the tranny Kit (I ordered separately) is worth the weight savings, I'm not going brushless. For now I'll run the metal gears though.

The tranny all assembled (without the motor or spur gear cover) weighs in at a 1/2 lb

BACK TO ASSEMBLY!!!!!!

EDIT: they do not provide a pinion, I was assuming they would. Thats fine though I have plenty to choose from but probably not an 18T

The position of the spur gear makes lining up the pinion difficult without the right pinion even if you're installing it backwards like they show in the manual. Though this will vary from motor to motor as some shafts are longer. Even then (for me at least) its tight positioning the set screw out of the way of the spur which leaves it right at the end of the motor shaft barely holding on. I'd say the ideal pinion for these would have the teeth cut all the way though it without a step in it or one with a set screw that's out of the way.


oh and BLACK GOLD! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7k_-YlUoy14

They look really sharp Casey nice choice! You aren't kidding about the weight of the metal gears, and I bet they will make a little noise.

Originally Posted by mikemcE

A 32p swap might be a game changer. Associated makes a drop in 32p 54t drop in already.

https://www.associatedelectrics.com/..._gear_54t_32p/


Hang up and Drive

Could be a good option, but I'll give the 48p a try first.



Ok, almost a roller!





Went together so smooth, everything moves nicely with no hint of binding or link bumping!!



The bottom,





I'm not good at conveying my thoughts sometimes so I'm letting the pics do most of the talking!




I think I can make this fit with a little trimming, I may need to build my own sliders.



And a Wertys made bumper, fits nicely and should have a good approach.



All for tonight, I may have the rest of the kit parts on it tomorrow. You all have a great weekend!
Ernie

[mikemcE]

I’d have to do the math on 87/18 so 54/11 is a bit taller......

Oh my Ernie !!!!!


Hang up and Drive

[soze]

Lookin good Ernie!

[carpetfuzz17]

Originally Posted by mikemcE

A 32p swap might be a game changer. Associated makes a drop in 32p 54t drop in already.

https://www.associatedelectrics.com/..._gear_54t_32p/


Hang up and Drive

Found this in my bin of AE spurs. I don't know where I even picked it up at. Wondering if it's to big to fit in. Makes me want to go out and pick up a kit now



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[soze]

32p..... hmmmmm.... who's going to try!

[HumboldtEF]

I put my roller (with a battery) on the scale and its sitting a 5 lbs even, not bad with that heavy tranny.



5lb 10 oz with an Ascender K10 body


I ended up installing my servo out of order, I didn't pay enough attention and mounted it from above and I had the drag link on top of the knuckle instead of the bottom. This made for tons of bump steer, about 5-10 degrees when I compressed one side at a time. I was worried for a second that it was just a bad design causing it, Luckily it was as easy as fixing my stupid mistake.

It was a bit eye opening how moving these drag link mount points had such a huge effect. To me the link looked like it was just right, nice and parallel but it really wasn't.

[dezfan]

Originally Posted by CODYBOY

The Dravtechs are expensive, but IMO you get what you pay for.




Casey, if I ever had a business I'd want you for my Quality control!!!! Good job young man! I notice the one shock in my pics last night.

Just a little caveat when building your shocks. When your bleeding them make sure you lube the o-ring at the top of the shock body, it is really easy to have it pinch out when tightening the shock cap. When I get the cap turned down to the o-ring I twist the cap a little both ways to be sure the ring is captured into the cap. It would be really easy to tear the rubber and ruin it.


On to the axles, I had these Yeah Racing chubs in my stock and so I thought I would try them. Went on and tightened up very nice on the stock (hard) axle. They are just a little tighter than the SSD chubs and I don't they will come loose.




I also clearance the unis for a few more degrees of steering.







And the rear is done too.



All for now guys, maybe more later today.

Ernie

Are those YR chubs made for the SCX10.2?

The color of those Chubs reminds me of the OG RC10 and very fitting.

Just received my kit, waiting on my hard plastic parts and these chubs like like a nice addition.

[svt923]

Originally Posted by mikemcE

A 32p swap might be a game changer. Associated makes a drop in 32p 54t drop in already.

https://www.associatedelectrics.com/..._gear_54t_32p/

Part # 7957 is the 56T version for another option.

https://www.associatedelectrics.com/..._gear_56t_32p/

[CODYBOY]

A little update on fitting the body and Cage build.

Did a little trimming to get it down a little lower.





Now the fun begins, fabbing is on of my favorite things to do when building!



I'm going to build a latter type role bar. I'll take you through a few of the steps, letting the pics do the talking,







Bobbed the bed and did a little trimming inside.


Started on the tail gate and the side upper bed rails. The bed is going to rest on them. Also added some forward tabs to screw the bed to.




A little peak at the inside of the bed, going to run a ascender fuel cell in there.



All for now, thanks any help or advice you want to offer.

[punkindrublik]

Originally Posted by soze

32p..... hmmmmm.... who's going to try!

Well, I either need to buy a 48p pinion, or a 32p spur. Think I'll go the spur route...

[HumboldtEF]

Looks great Ernie!

Originally Posted by punkindrublik

Well, I either need to buy a 48p pinion, or a 32p spur. Think I'll go the spur route...

Let us know how that works out


I got a few items in the mail, one being the MST Jimny body and I got to mocking up and a bit of cutting, since I'm cutting him in half I might call him Jim.










Its got a little bit of poke