Wheels and Weight

[dboeren]

I wanted to open up a discussion on these topics as I think these are some of the most common upgrades a new Enduro owner might be considering.

I've been told that low COG is good, you want to add unsprung weight where possible, avoid too much rotating weight, and have about a 60/40 front to rear weight distribution. But, a lot of times these goals can conflict and I've also seen several people posting that they prefer to keep their Enduro lighter and there are not yet that many aftermarket parts aimed specifically at the Enduro.

What are the first weight parts you should consider? With metal wheels, add-on wheel weights, C-hubs, axles, knuckles, 12mm hex wheel spacers, etc... how much added weight is too much? Which are the "best" places to put weight if you can? Which upgrades should go both front and back and which ones should probably be front only to maintain the weight bias?

I'm assuming that it's not a bad idea to get wheels since those are a visual upgrade in addition to a COG-lowering one. Is there much difference between high-end wheels and cheap eBay wheels or just pick whatever looks appealing?

Are there any known parts yet that fit the Enduro properly without modification for the non-rotating unsprung parts?

Thanks!

[DukeMinnix]

Personally, maybe a touch of weight low, be it in the form of knuckle and c hub or knuckle weights, whatever, but non rotational, but not much. The enduro is a light and nimble rig, doesn't take much.

[CODYBOY]

Originally Posted by dboeren

I wanted to open up a discussion on these topics as I think these are some of the most common upgrades a new Enduro owner might be considering.

I've been told that low COG is good, you want to add unsprung weight where possible, avoid too much rotating weight, and have about a 60/40 front to rear weight distribution. But, a lot of times these goals can conflict and I've also seen several people posting that they prefer to keep their Enduro lighter and there are not yet that many aftermarket parts aimed specifically at the Enduro.

What are the first weight parts you should consider? With metal wheels, add-on wheel weights, C-hubs, axles, knuckles, 12mm hex wheel spacers, etc... how much added weight is too much? Which are the "best" places to put weight if you can? Which upgrades should go both front and back and which ones should probably be front only to maintain the weight bias?

I'm assuming that it's not a bad idea to get wheels since those are a visual upgrade in addition to a COG-lowering one. Is there much difference between high-end wheels and cheap eBay wheels or just pick whatever looks appealing?

Are there any known parts yet that fit the Enduro properly without modification for the non-rotating unsprung parts?

Thanks!

Easy answer is non-rotating, as low as you can get it! If you're willing to move the steering to the front of the axle, most SCXii weight mods will work with maybe a little tweaking. SSD makes some great products for this! You can see what I did in my build thread.
Ernie

[dboeren]

Originally Posted by DukeMinnix

non rotational, but not much.

Originally Posted by CODYBOY

Easy answer is non-rotating

So do you recommend not doing metal wheels then as this would be a rotating weight? I have seen some aftermarket plastic wheels out there but there's not much variety and they generally don't look as nice.

CODYBOY - I'll check out your build thread, thanks!

[DukeMinnix]

Originally Posted by dboeren

So do you recommend not doing metal wheels then as this would be a rotating weight? I have seen some aftermarket plastic wheels out there but there's not much variety and they generally don't look as nice.

CODYBOY - I'll check out your build thread, thanks!

You'll have a hard time anyone on this forum recommending not to use metal wheels on a trail truck. Maybe on comp rigs you'll find guys who want Delrin, carbon, or whatever, and even the enduro stock wheels can be fit with metal hubs if you wanted to stay ultra low weight, but the weight of a metal wheel over the plastic isn't that damaging when speaking of rotational weight. When we talk about that, we're talking about guys who used to add lead wheel weights inside, or even axial themselves had inner wheel weights at one time, and some who still do. its not ideal. In the time of brushless motors and 3s and above being the preferred battery choice, most now leave the wheels be the only real rotating metal additions and try and keep the rest of the weight elsewhere.

[mikemcE]

Well, I run metal hexes and wheels on everything, SOP.
I will tell you a large can of worms will start opening about weighting wheels and venting tires.

Hours of arguments on both sides.

I will most likely add brass knuckles when available , Im more concerned about shock tuning rather than adding weight.


Hang up and Drive

[CODYBOY]

Originally Posted by dboeren

So do you recommend not doing metal wheels then as this would be a rotating weight? I have seen some aftermarket plastic wheels out there but there's not much variety and they generally don't look as nice.

CODYBOY - I'll check out your build thread, thanks!

Sorry if I wasn't clear on the wheels, they are the only metal rotating mass I use on a scale truck. I think it comes down to personal preference and how you drive. Like Mike said above, your question about wheel weight is a topic that many people have many answers to! " Personal preference and driving style". Would be mine.
Ernie

[Peaker]

I ran weighted wheels on my honcho, have not done that since then, and before that i ran vented tires on my crawler, and i have never done that on a scaler of mine.


My friend still run weighted tires and he do alright in COMP or just general wheeling, but its not like he run circles around me,,,,, oooo no

[dboeren]

OK, I think I'll go ahead and order some wheels then (avoiding any that are unusually heavy) and then stick to unsprung weight for anything else I might add later.

[durok]

A set of SSD steelies would suit this body design quite well, be inexpensive, and are the easiest to mount tires on - despite being steel, they are actually about the same weight as most aluminum wheels - the hub is aluminum:

https://www.rpphobby.com/category_s/...earch=%20steel

[Teamwild]

I did end up having to get 9mm wide hex hubs for my cheap Amazon wheels as they had a much different back spacing and hit on the metal steering arms.

The brass center hubs seem like a cool setup.

[dboeren]

Which hex hubs did you get and did you need to drill them?

[Teamwild]

I bought these:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I did have to drill the 5mm deeper, don't drill all the way through. A #8 (.199) drill will do the trick.