Knightrunner, getting back into scale builds, kinda

[tigris99]

Have a 2021 Tacoma, local club member shared the Knightrunner promo video over the summer, Christmas morning Santa had a knightrunner under the tree lol.

I am playing catch up after over a decade out of the hobby. Remember the original Axial???? Building the little hard body Tamiyas? A scale frame, leaf springs and such all cnc delrin from up and coming (now name brands).

So going to duplicate my 1:1, which is why I wanted it.

The bumper design on the Knightrunner is pissing me off to no end though. They seem to be something that's standardized among the big brands now. But seems to be there may be some cross compatibility???

I have done the main steering upgrade from Bow, gotta do spindles yet though. Other than that, switched to full size 3s (jury is out on if I like that other than top speed) and reprogrammed the ESC.

Will be making my own soft top and bed rack system, have some scale bits already with others on the way.

Pics of 1:1 that I'm copying, had bed rack till last week, now soft top, building bed rack that's fits over it (which knightrunner will match).

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[twade984]

Look forward to seeing this done

Here’s one my brother in law painted to match his 1:1 army green Tacoma



He ended up using paint from a somewhat local place

https://erapaints.com


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[smc-93]

Originally Posted by tigris99

The bumper design is pissing me off to no end though. They seem to be something that's standardized among the big brands now. But seems to be there may be some cross compatibility???

Are you referring to the 1:1 bumper or the body cut/Demelo bumper on the KR?

I'm working in making my KR more scale (not based on a 1:1, yet) and have been looking for a "stock" bumper to replace the Demelo bumper.

If you've got some ideas or a lead on one, would you mind sharing it with the rest of us tiny taco drivers?

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[tigris99]

Originally Posted by smc-93

Are you referring to the 1:1 bumper or the body cut/Demelo bumper on the KR?

I'm working in making my KR more scale (not based on a 1:1, yet) and have been looking for a "stock" bumper to replace the Demelo bumper.

If you've got some ideas or a lead on one, would you mind sharing it with the rest of us tiny taco drivers?

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The KR stock bumper design. It's stupid lol. But it appears they are 43mm post mount so may have other options (looks like a few brands use the design). Otherwise I'll just make something myself.

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[smc-93]

Originally Posted by tigris99

The KR stock bumper design. It's stupid lol. But it appears they are 43mm post mount so may have other options (looks like a few brands use the design). Otherwise I'll just make something myself.

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Gotcha. I'm not a fan of the KR bumper either. I'd prefer to find/make/have made a "stock" Tacoma style bumper instead.

I'm not experienced enough in CAD to figure out myself.

It did figure out how to modify an "off-road", 1.55, glue on wheel to make it a 1.7 beadlock. If you're interested.

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[tigris99]

That's one thing element/TA should have done with the clear body kit, have molded it with the stock bumper design, which then people can mod as desired. Especially when the tailrunner (4runner) has stock bumper style body.

I can't make a stock bumper, but I can fab a metal bumper that's at least better than this 2 flimsy pin crap they have going on, which I will likely do. Mount straight to the frame.

As for wheels I'm undecided what I'm gonna do because my 1:1 is getting trd pro wheels (only other wheels I like better cost twice as much almost). One thing I like about my 1:1 is it doesn't have the polished aluminum finish, it's smoke Grey.

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[smc-93]

Originally Posted by tigris99

That's one thing element/TA should have done with the clear body kit, have molded it with the stock bumper design, which then people can mod as desired. Especially when the tailrunner (4runner) has stock bumper style body.

I can't make a stock bumper, but I can fab a metal bumper that's at least better than this 2 flimsy pin crap they have going on, which I will likely do. Mount straight to the frame.

As for wheels I'm undecided what I'm gonna do because my 1:1 is getting trd pro wheels (only other wheels I like better cost twice as much almost). One thing I like about my 1:1 is it doesn't have the polished aluminum finish, it's smoke Grey.

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I saw the pics of your 1:1. Nice truck. Totally agree on the bumper. Would have preferred to cut off a Tacoma bumper to install the Demelo one.

I could send you a link to files for the Pro wheels as well. They we're part of the basis for making the off-road wheels. I prefer the off-roads with the silver. They were 3D printed all black then my wife painted the silver on.

One of these days, finances permitting, I plan on either buying a sintering oven to start making printed metal parts or a foundry setup to experiment with lost pla casting. I'm satisfied with how the wheels turned out but would prefer aluminum over plastic.

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[tigris99]

Originally Posted by smc-93

I saw the pics of your 1:1. Nice truck. Totally agree on the bumper. Would have preferred to cut off a Tacoma bumper to install the Demelo one.

I could send you a link to files for the Pro wheels as well. They we're part of the basis for making the off-road wheels. I prefer the off-roads with the silver. They were 3D printed all black then my wife painted the silver on.

One of these days, finances permitting, I plan on either buying a sintering oven to start making printed metal parts or a foundry setup to experiment with lost pla casting. I'm satisfied with how the wheels turned out but would prefer aluminum over plastic.

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Appreciate the offer. I don't have a printer YET. I'll hit you up when I do for sure.

Started working on making the soft top. Got the framing made, mounts to the factory rack mounts. Gotta get it brushed, cleaned and painted next. Little rusty with brazing but it'll be covered by fabric anyway.

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[tigris99]

Current progress. Main body of soft top done, bed rack about done (all aluminum).

Gotta finish making front and back windows for soft top and get then sewn in, side plates made for rack and paint it.

Guess it's about time to start looking for more scale accessories.

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[tigris99]

Soft top done, rack just sand, paint and fit scale bits.

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[smc-93]

Originally Posted by tigris99

Soft top done, rack just sand, paint and fit scale bits.

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Looking good so far.

I still need to learn how to braze myself.

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[tigris99]

Originally Posted by smc-93

Looking good so far.

I still need to learn how to braze myself.

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Brazing steel is gravy. Get the oxy Mapp little torch hose kit, a tank of Mapp, couple tanks of oxygen, and the regular brazing rod (brass rod with white coating). You just heat the steel till its red, maintain that and put the end of the brazing rod on it, it'll melt and flow creating a brass colored weld at the joint.

If using automotice brake line, get the uncoated stuff, but don't heat the line bright red. Heat the tip of the brazing rod to get it to start to melt and heat the brake line. Trick is maintaining heat on the brazing rod to melt it and not be reliant on the brake line being bright red to flow it. Reason is brake line if it's heated bright red when it cools often becomes kind of brittle. A few good tumbles can crack/break it at the joint.

The soft top is coat hangers cut and formed. So bright red heat all good.

The bed rack is aluminum and all bolt together. I'm still working on proper technique to braze aluminum because it's REALLY EASY to overheat and melt the aluminum, destroying the joint. Also hard to make look clean.

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[tigris99]

Also clear body kits are on a "god only knows how long" backorder. So not going to perfect match paint atm. Going to paint the outside a green that's very close but not quite. Be a couple shades lighter. I'll deal with that FOR NOW lol.

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[smc-93]

Originally Posted by tigris99

Brazing steel is gravy. Get the oxy Mapp little torch hose kit, a tank of Mapp, couple tanks of oxygen, and the regular brazing rod (brass rod with white coating). You just heat the steel till its red, maintain that and put the end of the brazing rod on it, it'll melt and flow creating a brass colored weld at the joint.

If using automotice brake line, get the uncoated stuff, but don't heat the line bright red. Heat the tip of the brazing rod to get it to start to melt and heat the brake line. Trick is maintaining heat on the brazing rod to melt it and not be reliant on the brake line being bright red to flow it. Reason is brake line if it's heated bright red when it cools often becomes kind of brittle. A few good tumbles can crack/break it at the joint.

The soft top is coat hangers cut and formed. So bright red heat all good.

The bed rack is aluminum and all bolt together. I'm still working on proper technique to braze aluminum because it's REALLY EASY to overheat and melt the aluminum, destroying the joint. Also hard to make look clean.

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Appreciate the pointers. I'm going to have to get a few extra tools in the future then.

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[tigris99]

Soft top DONE.

Bed rack, DONE except rotopax bits for other side (on the way).

Thanks to another user here I found Club5Racing. That was bad lol.

Skid kit and THE BUMPER. OMG THE BUMPER!!!

Love it. Over built, alot of thought and effort into the design. No flimsy plastic crap. Hard plastic over metal plate and aluminum mounting posts. LED light bar integrated. Flood light that will pair well with the headlights when I get them in (gotta get the buckets made).

That said, anything bigger than stock sized tires will rub, so expect to have to grind away some.of the fender flare area. The bumper mount has 3 holes, the one with it out the farthest is best otherwise likely going to rub stock sized tires.

Also, which did upset me a bit. The bumper kit IS SHORT ONE OF THE AMBER LIGHTS!!! Hopefully these people check their email. So those aren't installed.

Bumper worth the coin for sure. Even how the lights are installed is well designed and thought out.

Went out back to test light bar, neighbors cat had to come check things out.

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[smc-93]

I'm definitely going to have to get myself one of those bumpers as well. It looks much better than the Demelo one.
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[tigris99]

I saw the original post

But here is some more showing off.

Brass rear diff cover and shock/link mount brackets. Give some weight to the rear axle.

And since I'm stuck with the stock body, I made the best of it. Some Krylon Matte Italian Olive. Truth be told, this probably isn't far off if not a "damn close match" to Toyota Army Green, minus the high gloss.

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[Goro Majima]

Sweet rig! Always a fan of these 1:1 builds. And nice find on that bumper, looks pretty good. Are you gonna paint the fender arches black like your real truck?

[tigris99]

Originally Posted by Goro Majima

Sweet rig! Always a fan of these 1:1 builds. And nice find on that bumper, looks pretty good. Are you gonna paint the fender arches black like your real truck?

I just painted the outside of the stock body for now. Clear bodies are back ordered till god knows when (I had one backordered since end of November). And I may see about 3d printing the hard body kit at some point. So for now I had 3 different versions of a military green krylon paint in the garage, this one was the closest to my 1:1. I have no black ATM so didn't worry about fender wells. Don't care right now anyway as the base body itself is temporary till clear bodies come back in stock so I can actually match the paint exactly.

Next up besides shocks is lighting. Though now my 1:1may get a light bar on the front brush guard lol. Only running stupidly bright "ditch lights" in the front on the cowl.

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[tigris99]

Well rig performed awesome until...

Well let's just say stock ESC is not even close to water resistant. A few splashes and good bye entire electrical system, partially because when it freaked out it took off the opposite direction from me towards water again and got stuck in a pool deep enough to submerge everything.

So wife just told me happy birthday 3 months early, she gets my reward points at the LBS and don't tell her what it cost lol.

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