Originally Posted by Minnesota (Post 5989587)

Maybe a chassis brace and some brass up front. Other than that you're golden. Enjoy.

Originally Posted by Topher Builds (Post 5989598)

Recommendations in order IMHO

- install the optional OD that’s in the box
- upgrade the servo and metal servo horn. (Budget servo search amazon for 25kg servo, usually comes with a useable aluminum horn)
*** these are the only “musts” I’d say there are

Then:
- wheels/tires/foams
- STRC servo mount and rear brace
https://www.amainhobbies.com/st-raci...02cbk/p1059839
https://www.amainhobbies.com/st-raci...004bk/p1059835
- SSD or Samix shock towers
- SSD brass knuckles

Down the road you’ll likely replace the chubs but the plastic are fine as well. Rod end problems are common and either new links (hardcore rc) or spare/replacement rod ends are good to have on hand.

I’m one of the unpopular opinions that doesn’t think it’s worth it to upgrade from the stock enduro esc to the hw1080. The stock esc has a decent internal bec that will power a budget servo just fine, and the hw1080 does have some tuning features that you don’t get on stock but it’s nothing game changing.

I also have a somewhat unpopular opinion about the hard plastics, although it’s more of a principle than a quality thing. IMO if there’s a better plastic available from the manufacturer then that’s what should have been on the truck out of the box. That, along with the fact that the aftermarket has better options available for just about all of it, I think the money is better spent on third party parts. If something breaks and a cheap quick fix is needed then sure, get the hard plastic. But for an upgrade, run the stock stuff and save the coin till you can get something that isn’t plastic.

Originally Posted by jason02ws6 (Post 5989610)

I agree on the ESC too. Stock one is just fine after you switch the motor leads.

Originally Posted by SledgehogRC (Post 5989639)

Switch the motor leads?



Reasons I don't care for the stock esc are:

1) it's really jumpy in reverse

2) I like my esc to have an on/off switch

3) I want an esc I can calibrate myself. I don't like the auto calibrate on the stock.

4) I don't really trust it. The first rtr I ordered had to go back cuz the esc popped the second time I plugged it in without even using the thing once. :lmao: :evil:

Originally Posted by SledgehogRC (Post 5989971)

I've also been using the stock installed shorty tray with my racing 2s packs just because that's what I have on hand. Worth it to install the full sized battery tray in the box and pick up a cheap 3s lipo? Will that give me more weight in the front or is it better balanced with the shorty pack up front.

Originally Posted by SledgehogRC (Post 5989976)

Is this the hard chassis braces mentioned in posts above I should replace the stock rtr with?
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Associated-...UAAOSwxcZdEleI

Originally Posted by Topher Builds (Post 5989598)

Recommendations in order IMHO

- install the optional OD that’s in the box
- upgrade the servo and metal servo horn. (Budget servo search amazon for 25kg servo, usually comes with a useable aluminum horn)
*** these are the only “musts” I’d say there are

Then:
- wheels/tires/foams
- STRC servo mount and rear brace
https://www.amainhobbies.com/st-raci...02cbk/p1059839
https://www.amainhobbies.com/st-raci...004bk/p1059835
- SSD or Samix shock towers
- SSD brass knuckles

Down the road you’ll likely replace the chubs but the plastic are fine as well. Rod end problems are common and either new links (hardcore rc) or spare/replacement rod ends are good to have on hand.

I’m one of the unpopular opinions that doesn’t think it’s worth it to upgrade from the stock enduro esc to the hw1080. The stock esc has a decent internal bec that will power a budget servo just fine, and the hw1080 does have some tuning features that you don’t get on stock but it’s nothing game changing.

I also have a somewhat unpopular opinion about the hard plastics, although it’s more of a principle than a quality thing. IMO if there’s a better plastic available from the manufacturer then that’s what should have been on the truck out of the box. That, along with the fact that the aftermarket has better options available for just about all of it, I think the money is better spent on third party parts. If something breaks and a cheap quick fix is needed then sure, get the hard plastic. But for an upgrade, run the stock stuff and save the coin till you can get something that isn’t plastic.

Originally Posted by b_mock (Post 5990034)

i bought the servo from amazon. the set screws that help the hold the servo on came stripped... ugh. and the screw that actually holds the horn on backed out and i stripped it a touch trying to tighten it up out on the trail. would you put some loctite on that screw to help it out?



Thanks

Originally Posted by jason02ws6 (Post 5990062)

A TINY bit will help. Don’t go crazy with it though unless you want to buy a new horn when that servo craps out.


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