Recommended beginner upgrades?

[SledgehogRC]

New to crawling and have an rtr version of the enduro sendero.

Wondering what first budget upgrades are recommended. (Besides the hobbywing 1080 )

On a very strict budget so looking for cheap. Only thing I've changed so far are a different body, some extra LED lights, and the $20 Vanquish bumper set which is leaps and bounds better than the stock ones.

[jason02ws6]

The truck out of the box is pretty solid. Sound like you’ve already started on the right path so I say keep it simple from there. Replace what breaks, maybe look at different tire options, and maybe add a little weight down low.


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[Minnesota]

Maybe a chassis brace and some brass up front. Other than that you're golden. Enjoy.

[jason02ws6]

Originally Posted by Minnesota

Maybe a chassis brace and some brass up front. Other than that you're golden. Enjoy.

Yes to this. Get some hard plastic chassis braces from Associated. The chassis is quite flexible out of the box.


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[SledgehogRC]

Thanks, I'll look into the hard chassis braces. Anyone have a handy link?

I was wondering about the weight addition mainly. What are some good aftermarket options to add a lil weight where necessary? All I know is that rotational weight is bad from what I've read.

[Topher Builds]

Recommendations in order IMHO

- install the optional OD that’s in the box
- upgrade the servo and metal servo horn. (Budget servo search amazon for 25kg servo, usually comes with a useable aluminum horn)
*** these are the only “musts” I’d say there are

Then:
- wheels/tires/foams
- STRC servo mount and rear brace
https://www.amainhobbies.com/st-raci...02cbk/p1059839
https://www.amainhobbies.com/st-raci...004bk/p1059835
- SSD or Samix shock towers
- SSD brass knuckles

Down the road you’ll likely replace the chubs but the plastic are fine as well. Rod end problems are common and either new links (hardcore rc) or spare/replacement rod ends are good to have on hand.

I’m one of the unpopular opinions that doesn’t think it’s worth it to upgrade from the stock enduro esc to the hw1080. The stock esc has a decent internal bec that will power a budget servo just fine, and the hw1080 does have some tuning features that you don’t get on stock but it’s nothing game changing.

I also have a somewhat unpopular opinion about the hard plastics, although it’s more of a principle than a quality thing. IMO if there’s a better plastic available from the manufacturer then that’s what should have been on the truck out of the box. That, along with the fact that the aftermarket has better options available for just about all of it, I think the money is better spent on third party parts. If something breaks and a cheap quick fix is needed then sure, get the hard plastic. But for an upgrade, run the stock stuff and save the coin till you can get something that isn’t plastic.

[jason02ws6]

Originally Posted by Topher Builds

Recommendations in order IMHO

- install the optional OD that’s in the box
- upgrade the servo and metal servo horn. (Budget servo search amazon for 25kg servo, usually comes with a useable aluminum horn)
*** these are the only “musts” I’d say there are

Then:
- wheels/tires/foams
- STRC servo mount and rear brace
https://www.amainhobbies.com/st-raci...02cbk/p1059839
https://www.amainhobbies.com/st-raci...004bk/p1059835
- SSD or Samix shock towers
- SSD brass knuckles

Down the road you’ll likely replace the chubs but the plastic are fine as well. Rod end problems are common and either new links (hardcore rc) or spare/replacement rod ends are good to have on hand.

I’m one of the unpopular opinions that doesn’t think it’s worth it to upgrade from the stock enduro esc to the hw1080. The stock esc has a decent internal bec that will power a budget servo just fine, and the hw1080 does have some tuning features that you don’t get on stock but it’s nothing game changing.

I also have a somewhat unpopular opinion about the hard plastics, although it’s more of a principle than a quality thing. IMO if there’s a better plastic available from the manufacturer then that’s what should have been on the truck out of the box. That, along with the fact that the aftermarket has better options available for just about all of it, I think the money is better spent on third party parts. If something breaks and a cheap quick fix is needed then sure, get the hard plastic. But for an upgrade, run the stock stuff and save the coin till you can get something that isn’t plastic.

I agree on the ESC too. Stock one is just fine after you switch the motor leads. I have a 1080 in my Venture and other than a slightly stronger drag brake I find no advantage over the esc in my Sendero.


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[soze]

If you are ever on instagram check out @got_rocks. I suggested he get an Enduro for his first crawler back in September, and since then he's been a beast conquering a ton of lines at CDM.

Granted he's got talent as a driver he's got very basic mods on his truck geared more at adding front weight.

25kg DS Servo
Hobbywing 1080
VS410 Bumpers
He shortened his rear bed a tad
Pro-line BFG Krawlers g8
Pro-Line dual stage foam
Generic 1.9 alloy beadlocks
SSD Brass Knuckles
Wheel weights in the front
Treal brass c-hubs (although he said he had to modify these to work with the ssd brass knuckles)
Club5 High Clearance links
a cable tied to the top truss of the front axle up to the chassis to mimic the "sucked down" effect of a suck-down winch.


He has not done anything yet as far as chassis braces, hard chassis parts, etc.

The biggest thing that helped him before he got any of the parts for adding weight were the addition of alloy beadlock wheels paired with Pro-Line BFG Krawlers + dual stage foam.

[SledgehogRC]

Originally Posted by jason02ws6

I agree on the ESC too. Stock one is just fine after you switch the motor leads.

Switch the motor leads?

Reasons I don't care for the stock esc are:
1) it's really jumpy in reverse
2) I like my esc to have an on/off switch
3) I want an esc I can calibrate myself. I don't like the auto calibrate on the stock.
4) I don't really trust it. The first rtr I ordered had to go back cuz the esc popped the second time I plugged it in without even using the thing once.

[jason02ws6]

Originally Posted by SledgehogRC

Switch the motor leads?



Reasons I don't care for the stock esc are:

1) it's really jumpy in reverse

2) I like my esc to have an on/off switch

3) I want an esc I can calibrate myself. I don't like the auto calibrate on the stock.

4) I don't really trust it. The first rtr I ordered had to go back cuz the esc popped the second time I plugged it in without even using the thing once.

Switching the motor leads (wires) will solve number 1 on your list. If you do some searching on here there are some really good write ups on why that helps. The on/off switch is preference, I usually cut mine off and run them that way. The 1080 is great for tuning though, can’t go wrong there.


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[colbynobo]

I have a Holmes Hobbies 30T Torquemaster and a Hobbywing 1080 that I was planning on installing into my Trailwalker just after I got it. However, after a few drives with the stock setup I'm not sure if I'll even bother. I'm betting it'll probably be almost completely on point for me once I replace the stock radio system with my Futaba setup.

[SledgehogRC]

I've also been using the stock installed shorty tray with my racing 2s packs just because that's what I have on hand. Worth it to install the full sized battery tray in the box and pick up a cheap 3s lipo? Will that give me more weight in the front or is it better balanced with the shorty pack up front.

[jason02ws6]

Originally Posted by SledgehogRC

I've also been using the stock installed shorty tray with my racing 2s packs just because that's what I have on hand. Worth it to install the full sized battery tray in the box and pick up a cheap 3s lipo? Will that give me more weight in the front or is it better balanced with the shorty pack up front.

In my view batteries are all. A matter of option. Yes the extra weight of a full size pack might be helpful but the tray does sit up a little high which means you’re adding more weight higher up. Maybe look at spending that money on some weight down low and Lee using your shorty packs if you are happy with the run times and performance they are giving you.


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[SledgehogRC]

Is this the hard chassis braces mentioned in posts above I should replace the stock rtr with?
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Associated-...UAAOSwxcZdEleI

[jason02ws6]

Originally Posted by SledgehogRC

Is this the hard chassis braces mentioned in posts above I should replace the stock rtr with?
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Associated-...UAAOSwxcZdEleI

Yep either that or the STRC metal version of you want t spend a little more.



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[SledgehogRC]

Unfortunately im on a budget so an $8 hard plastic will have to do in place of $40+ metal braces atm

[b_mock]

Originally Posted by Topher Builds

Recommendations in order IMHO

- install the optional OD that’s in the box
- upgrade the servo and metal servo horn. (Budget servo search amazon for 25kg servo, usually comes with a useable aluminum horn)
*** these are the only “musts” I’d say there are

Then:
- wheels/tires/foams
- STRC servo mount and rear brace
https://www.amainhobbies.com/st-raci...02cbk/p1059839
https://www.amainhobbies.com/st-raci...004bk/p1059835
- SSD or Samix shock towers
- SSD brass knuckles

Down the road you’ll likely replace the chubs but the plastic are fine as well. Rod end problems are common and either new links (hardcore rc) or spare/replacement rod ends are good to have on hand.

I’m one of the unpopular opinions that doesn’t think it’s worth it to upgrade from the stock enduro esc to the hw1080. The stock esc has a decent internal bec that will power a budget servo just fine, and the hw1080 does have some tuning features that you don’t get on stock but it’s nothing game changing.

I also have a somewhat unpopular opinion about the hard plastics, although it’s more of a principle than a quality thing. IMO if there’s a better plastic available from the manufacturer then that’s what should have been on the truck out of the box. That, along with the fact that the aftermarket has better options available for just about all of it, I think the money is better spent on third party parts. If something breaks and a cheap quick fix is needed then sure, get the hard plastic. But for an upgrade, run the stock stuff and save the coin till you can get something that isn’t plastic.

i bought the servo from amazon. the set screws that help the hold the servo on came stripped... ugh. and the screw that actually holds the horn on backed out and i stripped it a touch trying to tighten it up out on the trail. would you put some loctite on that screw to help it out?



Thanks

[jason02ws6]

Originally Posted by b_mock

i bought the servo from amazon. the set screws that help the hold the servo on came stripped... ugh. and the screw that actually holds the horn on backed out and i stripped it a touch trying to tighten it up out on the trail. would you put some loctite on that screw to help it out?



Thanks

A TINY bit will help. Don’t go crazy with it though unless you want to buy a new horn when that servo craps out.


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[b_mock]

Originally Posted by jason02ws6

A TINY bit will help. Don’t go crazy with it though unless you want to buy a new horn when that servo craps out.


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will do i may load it up. its let me down twice out on the trail! i believe it was less than $20 on amazon.


appreciate your help

[Ty3]

The bumpers are huge and the rear is the worst. It gets hung up on stuff.


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