My Enduro / LC70 build thread (with bonus steering issue)

[mash914]

Here is the servo mount I'm thinking of. I think this could give me more options. Any thoughts?

[MOguy]

Originally Posted by mash914

I guess my "frustration" with the steering is that most folks seem happy with it. I'm certain my standards are no higher than the more experienced people, so I can only assume I've either put it together wrong, or I'm missing something

I think most people just trail these and my not be as picky? I want to maneuver, I want steering.

I am in the same situation but I have only been doing this just over a year. I have done a couple builds and a few out of the box crawlers and bashers. I have a Wraith 2.2, a couple TRX4 builds and Axial SCX10 OG and 10ii build and none have the steering issues as the Enduro. The Servo on axle is the easy solution but my Enduro build is a class 1 and the servo needs be on the chassis. even if it didn't need to be on the chassis it just looks better than way.



.

[MOguy]

Originally Posted by mash914

Here is the servo mount I'm thinking of. I think this could give me more options. Any thoughts?

I can't see the image

[smog]

I don’t understand why you are having issues with your steering. Neither of my built Enduros have interference with the steering. Quite the opposite, I get incredible steering angles and my servo horn clears the panhard with room to spare.

[mash914]

Originally Posted by MOguy

I can't see the image

I edited the post - does it work now?

[MOguy]

Originally Posted by mash914

I edited the post - does it work now?

yes and that is the style I am looking for.

[mash914]

Originally Posted by smog

I don’t understand why you are having issues with your steering. Neither of my built Enduros have interference with the steering. Quite the opposite, I get incredible steering angles and my servo horn clears the panhard with room to spare.

That's why I'm surprised. Most folks consider it a pro. I will say turning right it's fantastic.

Does your servo horn go behind the panhard mount, or do you get full left steering before it contacts it?
BTW, I'm using the stock horn for right now.

[MOguy]

Originally Posted by mash914

I edited the post - does it work now?

mine clear, I just get more with the same axles on another build. I am also getting bumspteer that I didn't get.

The only difference I can see is the way the servo is mounted,

[MOguy]

Originally Posted by mash914

That's why I'm surprised. Most folks consider it a pro. I will say turning right it's fantastic.

Does your servo horn go behind the panhard mount, or do you get full left steering before it contacts it?
BTW, I'm using the stock horn for right now.

I used a shim to lower the panhard on the frame side so my horn would clear.

In all fairness I am comparing this to a build using a Brazin chassis with SOA and a Corrupts Carbon using a mount like pictured above.

But even my TRX4s don't have the same issues but they don't offer that great of a turning radius either.

Many say just set the endpoints so you don't have a problem but I want to fix those problems so I can have max steering.

[mash914]

Originally Posted by MOguy

I used a shim to lower the panhard on the frame side so my horn would clear.

In all fairness I am comparing this to a build using a Brazin chassis with SOA and a Corrupts Carbon using a mount like pictured above.

But even my TRX4s don't have the same issues but they don't offer that great of a turning radius either.

Many say just set the endpoints so you don't have a problem but I want to fix those problems so I can have max steering.

That's kind of where I am. I really want the turn to the left to be as good as the right. I'm really considering that chassis for another build - how do you like it?


Here is a quick video I made to try to capture what's going on.
[URL]https://i.imgur.com/tIfVEoP.mp4[/img]

[MOguy]

Originally Posted by mash914

That's kind of where I am. I really want the turn to the left to be as good as the right. I'm really considering that chassis for another build - how do you like it?


Here is a quick video I made to try to capture what's going on.
https://i.imgur.com/tIfVEoP.mp4

I have the Land Shark Corrupt Carbon and the Brazin SCX10 team and I like the Corrupt much better.

The Brazin chassis is flimsy and can it is also designed so you really need to do a four link with a SOA, which work great but is ugly.

The Corrupt Carbon is also a lower profile and the top of the Corrupt Carbon Chassis sits lower even it you have the belly at the same height. This allows you to have the same clearance but you can sit the body lower for lower center of gravity. The mid low hanging section on the Corrupt Carbon is shorter so less high center issues.

But neither have removeable shock towers which is required for a class 1 (SORRCA) build.

I do like the Enduro chassis and transmission, I am using that trans on the Corrupts Carbon build. The Enduro Chassis is working really well for me with the ar44s. My only issue is the steering but I am the guy that sits with a Dremel and if I can remove something to make it work better I will. I have not had to do that with an AR44 plastics one piece but I have with an AR44 aluminum front axle.

I want the turning so tight that I can hang on a ledge turn my tires and have the sidewall make contact.

[mash914]

Originally Posted by MOguy

I have the Land Shark Corrupt Carbon and the Brazin SCX10 team and I like the Corrupt much better.

The Brazin chassis is flimsy and can it is also designed so you really need to do a four link with a SOA, which work great but is ugly.

The Corrupt Carbon is also a lower profile and the top of the Corrupt Carbon Chassis sits lower even it you have the belly at the same height. This allows you to have the same clearance but you can sit the body lower for lower center of gravity. The mid low hanging section on the Corrupt Carbon is shorter so less high center issues.

But neither have removeable shock towers which is required for a class 1 (SORRCA) build.

I do like the Enduro chassis and transmission, I am using that trans on the Corrupts Carbon build. The Enduro Chassis is working really well for me with the ar44s. My only issue is the steering but I am the guy that sits with a Dremel and if I can remove something to make it work better I will. I have not had to do that with an AR44 plastics one piece but I have with an AR44 aluminum front axle.

I want the turning so tight that I can hang on a ledge turn my tires and have the sidewall make contact.

A cool goal


That land shark looks cool. I want to get this one working how I want before i move on

[HumboldtEF]

Sorry if I missed this but have you adjusted the steering endpoints?

Another factor is the angle of the horn itself, the closer the drag link is to parallel with the axle the less steering its able to do. I've had a number of rigs where the servo is off center to on side when the wheels are straight, this always results in one side requiring more throw than the other and even then it has less leverage due to it getting close to straightening out (the servo horn angle). Adjusting the drag link length so the horn is centered when the wheels are centered will alleviate this but has the potential to add some bumpsteer. But I'd say its worth risking a tiny bit of bumpsteer for better steering.
One thing I'll do to center the servo horn (so the wheels are centered too) is to trim the drag link rod ends or use shorter rod ends.

EDIT: this isnt really related but I'd recommend taking out the rubber servo dampeners that are used to mount it. I can see your servo moving around a bit as you steer. These are meant to extend the life of a servo by isolating it from vibrations but with crawlers being so slow I dont think is an issue worth worrying about. I never use them and the majority of us crawler guys dont either.

EDIT 2: I also see you have the drag link on the wheel side mounted on top of the metal bracket when it should be mounted from below. see page 10 gate 2 https://img2.associatedelectrics.com...-Kit-40102.pdf

[MOguy]

Originally Posted by HumboldtEF

Sorry if I missed this but have you adjusted the steering endpoints?

Another factor is the angle of the horn itself, the closer the drag link is to parallel with the axle the less steering its able to do. I've had a number of rigs where the servo is off center to on side when the wheels are straight, this always result in one side requiring more throw than the other and even then it has less leverage due to it getting close to straightening out (the servo horn angle). Adjusting the drag link length so the horn is centered when the wheels are centered will alleviate this but has the potential to add some bumpsteer. But I'd say its worth risking a tiny bit of bumpsteer for better steering.
One thing I'll do to center the servo horn (so the wheels are centered too) is to trim the rod ends or use shorter rod ends.

EDIT: this isnt really related but I'd recommend taking out the rubber servo dampeners that are used to mount it. I can see your servo moving around a bit as you steer. These are meant to extend the life of a servo by isolating it from vibrations but with crawlers being so slow I dont think is an issue worth worrying about. I never use them and the majority of us crawler guys dont either.

I like see how far the axles can turn by themselves, then I see how far they can turn with the linkage attached. I will move this or that, grind, change the ends and what ever I can do to maximize steering. Then I center the servo and try to get my horn and steering link I the center of the movement of the servo.That is proving to be difficult wit the servo mounted sideways. it just seems that sitting the way it does causes odd things to happen. I know when I turn all the way esp if long and hard I am killing my servo but I don't max turn often and if it burns out, it burns out.

I know I could just set the endpoints and be done in 10 minuets but I want all I can get.

[HumboldtEF]

@MOguy my reply was meant for the OP no you, but agree and none of my stuff stays configured like stock for long.

Also for the OP those Gmade shocks take up valuable space that could be used to get more steering, the Behind the axle link will hit these at a certain angle.

[twade984]

I have two suggestions, mount the drag link to the underside of the steering arm where it’s supposed to be, or remove the spacer at the horn side at least. Flattening the drag link angle essentially lengthens it, which would definitely impact steering angle to the left.

Also make sure the panhard mount isn’t causing interference sooner than the stock mount would.

And, make the sure the drag link is mounted to the long side of the steering arm. There is a long snd short side of the rh steering arm.

[mash914]

Originally Posted by HumboldtEF

Sorry if I missed this but have you adjusted the steering endpoints?

Another factor is the angle of the horn itself, the closer the drag link is to parallel with the axle the less steering its able to do. I've had a number of rigs where the servo is off center to on side when the wheels are straight, this always results in one side requiring more throw than the other and even then it has less leverage due to it getting close to straightening out (the servo horn angle). Adjusting the drag link length so the horn is centered when the wheels are centered will alleviate this but has the potential to add some bumpsteer. But I'd say its worth risking a tiny bit of bumpsteer for better steering.
One thing I'll do to center the servo horn (so the wheels are centered too) is to trim the drag link rod ends or use shorter rod ends.

EDIT: this isnt really related but I'd recommend taking out the rubber servo dampeners that are used to mount it. I can see your servo moving around a bit as you steer. These are meant to extend the life of a servo by isolating it from vibrations but with crawlers being so slow I dont think is an issue worth worrying about. I never use them and the majority of us crawler guys dont either.

EDIT 2: I also see you have the drag link on the wheel side mounted on top of the metal bracket when it should be mounted from below. see page 10 gate 2 https://img2.associatedelectrics.com...-Kit-40102.pdf

Dude! I think you found it! That’s been the issue - I have the drag link set as short as it can go - it just seems too long. I had a bunch of trouble getting the servo mounted from the bottom (wires wouldn’t let it just pass through). I must have just missed it. Now I’m excited to get home and try it out. Thanks

I wondered about the rubber - the movement isn’t ideal. Glad to know I can clean that up.

[mash914]

Originally Posted by twade984

I have two suggestions, mount the drag link to the underside of the steering arm where it’s supposed to be, or remove the spacer at the horn side at least. Flattening the drag link angle essentially lengthens it, which would definitely impact steering angle to the left.

Also make sure the panhard mount isn’t causing interference sooner than the stock mount would.

And, make the sure the drag link is mounted to the long side of the steering arm. There is a long snd short side of the rh steering arm.

The new shock tower actually gives a bit more room, thanks for the suggestion though.

I think I have it the right way, but I’ll double check those arms. The way I have them now the two extensions on the back for the tie rod match - I assume that’s right, but I’ll definitely look again. Thanks

[MOguy]

This has been a great conversation. All to often when you get in a brand specific forum people take things too personal about their chosen RC and try to find fault with the person having the issue instead of helping them work though it.

[mash914]

Originally Posted by mash914

The new shock tower actually gives a bit more room, thanks for the suggestion though.

I think I have it the right way, but I’ll double check those arms. The way I have them now the two extensions on the back for the tie rod match - I assume that’s right, but I’ll definitely look again. Thanks

Originally Posted by MOguy

This has been a great conversation. All to often when you get in a brand specific forum people take things too personal about their chosen RC and try to find fault with the person having the issue instead of helping them work though it.

Agree 100% and I’m grateful for the constructive help. It’s always a bit nerve wracking entering an existing group and I’m glad this turned out the way it did.