RCCrawler Forums

redbaron · 09-24-2008, 01:56 PM

With this set-up, your tires will not freewheel, unless you have weak motors!

jombo · 09-24-2008, 05:27 PM

i was going to use the same switch but to actually make a short on the motor. the way its set up it shows exactly that, it kills the power to the motor and unless there are volts going in the neutral it shouldnt lock up. i could be wrong and still havent tryed it that way yet but i do know if you put the positive to the negitive like you would wire a capacitor to the motor it will stop and seize. idn maybe i am over analizing the diagram but thats how true dynamic brakes work by resistors till its a dead short to the motor.
i guess it comes down to what the esc is doing when you throw the switch , i need to get my volt meter out and see whats going on.

redbaron · 09-24-2008, 05:49 PM

Actually it does lock it up. When the switch is engaged, it basically hooks the positive and the ground together inside the switch. If the ground wire was not going into the NO position, then yes, it would only free wheel.

jombo · 09-24-2008, 06:07 PM

i just meterd the switch, it is c=closed, no=normally open , nc=normally closed.
when the power is going through the red wires it flows power to the motor , then if you hit the switch it transfers power to the center (no )and totally disconects the positive. i need to see what the other motor is doing with the esc because i am still scratching my head here. maybe with a doubble pole doubble throw it may work that way heck it may even run the motors in reverse. i need to finish what i am doing if i cant get it to work i am gonna go the other rout and short the motors with the switch.

pup · 09-24-2008, 06:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jombo

i just meterd the switch, it is c=closed, no=normally open , nc=normally closed.
when the power is going through the red wires it flows power to the motor , then if you hit the switch it transfers power to the center (no )and totally disconects the positive. i need to see what the other motor is doing with the esc because i am still scratching my head here. maybe with a doubble pole doubble throw it may work that way heck it may even run the motors in reverse. i need to finish what i am doing if i cant get it to work i am gonna go the other rout and short the motors with the switch.

Look at the diagram a little closer. When the switch changes state the NO becomes closed which makes the + and - become DEAD shorted. it is exactly what you are saying except there is no need for a resistor and it is as much resistance as posible

jombo · 09-24-2008, 06:51 PM

is it because of the second motor , i didnt hook up the second motor to the esc yet. when i hit the switch all it does is switch the c from the nc to no and that isint connected to the red wire anymore , once you hit the switch. all that did was give me a second negitive and free wheel

pup · 09-25-2008, 06:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jombo

is it because of the second motor , i didnt hook up the second motor to the esc yet. when i hit the switch all it does is switch the c from the nc to no and that isint connected to the red wire anymore , once you hit the switch. all that did was give me a second negitive and free wheel

It has nothing to do with the ESC. Take a motor and put a pinion on it so you can spin it. Now take a peice of wires and hook the + to the - and try it again. Feel the difference? now add the gear reduction of the axle and WALAAAAAA dig.

jombo · 09-26-2008, 01:26 PM

yes i got that part but when i hook up the other motor too it shuts off too if i short any switch or motor. this is too complicated i am going to use a transister and a diode to lower the voltage and slow the motor when i hit the switch. this way the diode wont let the current flow the opposite direction and the transister will drop the volts to 5 volts and 1 amp

pup · 09-26-2008, 03:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jombo

yes i got that part but when i hook up the other motor too it shuts off too if i short any switch or motor. this is too complicated i am going to use a transister and a diode to lower the voltage and slow the motor when i hit the switch. this way the diode wont let the current flow the opposite direction and the transister will drop the volts to 5 volts and 1 amp

Then you are not wiring it like that diagram. I am not sure what you are doing different but I know of about 6 trucks that are running this EXACT set-up and they work perfectly. Wish I could help you but with out seeing what you have I am not sure how to.:-(

akguanja · 09-26-2008, 03:31 PM

Uroplatus, Thanks for the write up and pics. i will deffinatly be trying this out on my new super and new 2.2 moa rigs

ill let you know how it goes.

VERY CLEAN btw.

-tre

jombo · 09-26-2008, 03:54 PM

sorry to steal your thread, great write up . sorry again .

tootallcrawl · 09-26-2008, 09:38 PM

I like it too. I think it will have be used to power my rig in the future. I think I'll only need "on" and "off" so this will do just nicely

thanks again

Uroplatus · 09-28-2008, 07:24 PM

Thanks guys... I have to say there are some things that I want to improve on... making a smaller box for one. The other is getting the electronics a little lower.

Thanks for all the compliments!

toy4crawlin · 09-29-2008, 11:42 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Uroplatus

Basicly what I am reading with the switches and all is this... when the switch is open, it allows the power to run down the red wire, allowing the motor to turn. When you close the switch it dead shorts the motor which breaks the line of power running down the red wire. The motor locks, doesn't really free wheel due to the magnets in the motor. Open the switch back up and the motor is now running. Trip the other switch and the same thing happens.

All the switches do is break the line so that power can't reach the motor.

Thats great . Thank you for Clarifying that.

IS there a way to have:
freewheel and locked and Drive

the locking works in both Brushless and brushed motors

but the holding power depends on the type of motor used ..?

Normal operation is without the switches, or is that closed position

pup · 09-29-2008, 03:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by toy4crawlin

Thats great . Thank you for Clarifying that.

IS there a way to have:
freewheel and locked and Drive

Yes, Check this thread http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/showthread.php?t=124079

the locking works in both Brushless and brushed motors

but the holding power depends on the type of motor used ..?

I do not think it will work with brushless but have not tried it

Normal operation is without the switches, or is that closed position

That is correct. Both switches in Normal state = 4X4

Answers are in red in your quote.

toy4crawlin · 11-03-2008, 05:17 PM

Thank you

One last thing
Those Micro switches are rated for 5 amps. so doesn't that mean that the voltage gets extremely cut down when the switch is activated

Also over heating the switch ? How is it holding up...

pup · 11-03-2008, 06:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by toy4crawlin

Thank you

One last thing
Those Micro switches are rated for 5 amps. so doesn't that mean that the voltage gets extremely cut down when the switch is activated

Also over heating the switch ? How is it holding up...

When the switch is activated? Do you mean when the servo is hitting the switch or when it is in the normal state?

If you are refering to when the servo is hitting the switch then the voltage is not reduced it is ZERO (0).

But really why does it matter? There are a lot of trucks running this same set-up with no issues.

bigbird110 · 11-05-2008, 04:12 PM

just wanted to tell you your idea really helped me i built one today was really easy with your directions and pics thanks

johnkris · 11-19-2008, 08:41 AM

i wish i would have read this before buy my new dig unit! nice work!

Calicrawler23 · 12-02-2008, 11:51 PM

So the servo should stop when it makes contact with the metal flap?

11-05-2008, 04:12 PM	#38
bigbird110 Newbie Join Date: Jul 2008 Location: summertown Posts: 26	dig switch just wanted to tell you your idea really helped me i built one today was really easy with your directions and pics thanks

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09-24-2008, 01:56 PM	#21
redbaron I wanna be Dave Join Date: Jul 2006 Location: Elberfeld Posts: 2,085	With this set-up, your tires will not freewheel, unless you have weak motors!

09-24-2008, 05:27 PM	#22
jombo Pebble Pounder Join Date: Jul 2008 Location: Trumbull, CT Posts: 111	i was going to use the same switch but to actually make a short on the motor. the way its set up it shows exactly that, it kills the power to the motor and unless there are volts going in the neutral it shouldnt lock up. i could be wrong and still havent tryed it that way yet but i do know if you put the positive to the negitive like you would wire a capacitor to the motor it will stop and seize. idn maybe i am over analizing the diagram but thats how true dynamic brakes work by resistors till its a dead short to the motor. i guess it comes down to what the esc is doing when you throw the switch , i need to get my volt meter out and see whats going on.

09-24-2008, 05:49 PM	#23
redbaron I wanna be Dave Join Date: Jul 2006 Location: Elberfeld Posts: 2,085	Actually it does lock it up. When the switch is engaged, it basically hooks the positive and the ground together inside the switch. If the ground wire was not going into the NO position, then yes, it would only free wheel.

09-24-2008, 06:07 PM	#24
jombo Pebble Pounder Join Date: Jul 2008 Location: Trumbull, CT Posts: 111	i just meterd the switch, it is c=closed, no=normally open , nc=normally closed. when the power is going through the red wires it flows power to the motor , then if you hit the switch it transfers power to the center (no )and totally disconects the positive. i need to see what the other motor is doing with the esc because i am still scratching my head here. maybe with a doubble pole doubble throw it may work that way heck it may even run the motors in reverse. i need to finish what i am doing if i cant get it to work i am gonna go the other rout and short the motors with the switch.

09-24-2008, 06:51 PM	#26
jombo Pebble Pounder Join Date: Jul 2008 Location: Trumbull, CT Posts: 111	is it because of the second motor , i didnt hook up the second motor to the esc yet. when i hit the switch all it does is switch the c from the nc to no and that isint connected to the red wire anymore , once you hit the switch. all that did was give me a second negitive and free wheel

09-26-2008, 01:26 PM	#28
jombo Pebble Pounder Join Date: Jul 2008 Location: Trumbull, CT Posts: 111	yes i got that part but when i hook up the other motor too it shuts off too if i short any switch or motor. this is too complicated i am going to use a transister and a diode to lower the voltage and slow the motor when i hit the switch. this way the diode wont let the current flow the opposite direction and the transister will drop the volts to 5 volts and 1 amp

09-26-2008, 03:31 PM	#30
akguanja RCC Addict Join Date: Jun 2008 Location: Wasilla Posts: 1,304	Uroplatus, Thanks for the write up and pics. i will deffinatly be trying this out on my new super and new 2.2 moa rigs ill let you know how it goes. VERY CLEAN btw. -tre

09-26-2008, 03:54 PM	#31
jombo Pebble Pounder Join Date: Jul 2008 Location: Trumbull, CT Posts: 111	sorry to steal your thread, great write up . sorry again .

09-26-2008, 09:38 PM	#32
tootallcrawl Rock Stacker Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: Lincoln RI Posts: 76	I like it too. I think it will have be used to power my rig in the future. I think I'll only need "on" and "off" so this will do just nicely thanks again

09-28-2008, 07:24 PM	#33
Uroplatus Team T1E/VP Driver Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: High Point Posts: 684	Thanks guys... I have to say there are some things that I want to improve on... making a smaller box for one. The other is getting the electronics a little lower. Thanks for all the compliments!

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11-03-2008, 05:17 PM	#36
toy4crawlin I wanna be Dave Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: Campbell, CA 4 hrs 2Rubicon ! Posts: 2,044	Thank you One last thing Those Micro switches are rated for 5 amps. so doesn't that mean that the voltage gets extremely cut down when the switch is activated Also over heating the switch ? How is it holding up...

11-19-2008, 08:41 AM	#39
johnkris Newbie Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: AUBURN Posts: 4	i wish i would have read this before buy my new dig unit! nice work!

12-02-2008, 11:51 PM	#40
Calicrawler23 Quarry Creeper Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: Fresno Posts: 398	So the servo should stop when it makes contact with the metal flap?

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