Dlux Berg Build

[Shaunkjar]

Originally Posted by Erik D_lux

I really dont think you can fine tune a 1:1 nearly as well as you can a RC crawler. Can you imagine getting out of your 1:1 and moving your front shocks 1" in either direction just to see how the change feels and then driving up some hair ball obstacle just to roll over back wards from 12 feet high?

I totally agree. That is what makes RC so fun for me. I havent been at it long but I love making the little tweaks and seeing what results. With 1:10 you can dial a lot of wheel hop out with tires and foams and I think you can smooth out that much more with some shock tuning. I also don't think you need to sacrifice a lot of crawling functionality either.

To find the ballpark you want to tune in, I really like the idea of identifying what you think the extremes are and trying both ends of that spectrum. Then smaller variations closer to the end of the spectrum you prefer.

As was pointed out, your sprung weight doesn't amount to much but it also doesn't take much weight shift to ruin what slight traction you have in some situations.

[Harvo]

Erik's been quiet for a while now. I bet he's still out there with a flashlight changing oil and trying lines

[Shaunkjar]

Honestly, that is probably not far off. He may have already found a way to improve the design and is machining some of his own tonight.

[Erik D_lux]

Originally Posted by Harvo

The shocks will compress and rebound on every hop... but IMO you will drive yourself nuts trying to get rid of that behavior with shocks.

I think this comment is going to be old news soon....

Originally Posted by Harvo

BTW... were your batteries pooping out in any of the videos that were labeled bad? Because tire speed is a factor too. Just curious.

Yeah, some of them were but it does not effect my power as far as I can tell, just run time.

When I would do the climbs I would pretty much play with the throttle to see the amount of hop. There were a couple of times where I could go full throttle because it would change my car so much, most of the time it was only good for about 1/2 throttle.

Originally Posted by Curcal

Travis had a good thought about tuning one axle towards the other.

I dont really think in that light I guess. I just make changes to the car and see how the car reacts. IMO, it does not matter what force its opposing or against, tuning this compared to that etc,. , its just better or worse over all and I keep making changes until I cant make the car work better.

Originally Posted by Curcal

To be scientific: you should reset you front shocks back to 30wt no pack and try and tune the rear to your liking. Then try to figure out how to split the difference between front and rear.

I dont know how much time in a day you clowns think there is in a day That video was about 10 min long but that was 4.5hrs worth of tuning and very little driving. That 4.5hrs only got my fronts dialed in.

I think you would be chasing your tail by switching the front back. I want to know how they work together which could be totally different.

Originally Posted by Harvo

Erik's been quiet for a while now. I bet he's still out there with a flashlight changing oil and trying lines

Originally Posted by Shaunkjar

Honestly, that is probably not far off. He may have already found a way to improve the design and is machining some of his own tonight.

What, a guy cant have a life outside of RCC? Ok, yeah I have been tuning and its been taking my time.

[Erik D_lux]

Here is my update....

HR 2nds are dialed. I love them. Gobs of torque, start up is crazy low and smooth and I am guessing these have to be putting a lot less strain on my sidewinders. Major thumbs up. Big downside.... they are so noisy that they bother me. I know there has to be some "gear pitch" gurus in here that have been in RC for 30yrs and what not so, I am wondering if its just the HR gears that are machined poorly or if there is a chance that the pitch is off a touch to a different pitch? I have 5 different 2nd gears, 2 new, 3 used. All are the same. I spent about 3 hours going though things and making sure things are legit. If anybody has some thoughts, even modifying the teeth, I would love to hear it.

[Erik D_lux]

These shock pistons are staying!

I knew from the instant that I put the fronts in with zero tuning that the front was much better. When I put the rears in it felt horrible. I came home and was thinking about it and figured that I hated the rears so bad that I will be going back to stock. I decided to switch the valve stack around that night. I went driving yesterday and immediately loved it as much as I loved the fronts. I didnt want to come post anything as it was not a great place to test, things can change in an instant and can be very inconsistent. I went out and drove again today and I have the same great feeling.

This setup with these pistons has a TON of room for improvement but I think they are 10x better than the stock pistons. I think they work so well that I even considered not sharing the info Honestly, I am not sure how much info I will be sharing as I can see them being that big of an advantage. Even better, now that I am in the ball park in the rear, I feel like I can actually tell what is going on with the car as far as what is rebounding/compressing too fast or slow. I have high hopes for these and as I said, even if they dont get better, I think they are far superior to my stock setup.

[Curcal]

Originally Posted by Erik D_lux

I dont know how much time in a day you clowns think there is in a day That video was about 10 min long but that was 4.5hrs worth of tuning and very little driving. That 4.5hrs only got my fronts dialed in.

Its called the scientific method. Hahaha. Glad you made a break through!

[Erik D_lux]

Before and after video.

The first clip is my car with stock 3 hole and 35wt oil. The second clip is where I am now...

Before and after shock tuning - YouTube

[TSK]

That looks much better

[Curcal]

Wow! Its almost as if you had to force the hop out of them. Nice!

[Erik D_lux]

Yeah, if you watch the video you will see that I have somewhat of a hard time just getting the car to sit in that sweet spot and spin, it really wants to just go up.

Another thing I noticed is that before, I would get say 5 hops a second, kinda like micro hop and now its more like 1 hop every 2 seconds but its a much bigger hop. My loose theory on this is that the hop is coming from getting traction, the car does not make progress so it has to transfer that force somewhere and it hops just to loose traction. Now, I think its doing the same thing only its getting a lot more traction for a longer period of time, which I feel is really helpful.

After doing some more thinking, I dont know that you want to dial out the hop completely, if hop is related to traction. If you watch the first video, I dont remember which one it was but I was able to go full throttle. The car was very smooth, very little hop but the problem was that it was as if the tires were just floating in the air. No traction, no hop, no making the obstacle. Its a bit like squat and anti squat where you could dial out almost all of the hop but whats the point if you sacrifice the traction?

[Harvo]

That's an improvement over the last video

[mfawv]

so which kit fits big bores?

[TEDROCKZ]

Mip12133

[mfawv]

found it, but they are back ordered.

[mfawv]

thanks ted. found them in stock.

[JeremyH]

It looks like you're liking those MIP pistons. Now, let's see a before and after gap jump with them!

BTW, I assume you're running the valving flaps on the top of the piston, correct?

[mfawv]

can i have more, PLEASE...........

[Erik D_lux]

Originally Posted by JeremyH

It looks like you're liking those MIP pistons. Now, let's see a before and after gap jump with them!

BTW, I assume you're running the valving flaps on the top of the piston, correct?

Yeah, thanks a bunch for the heads up!

Jumping is the one serious downside I have found to running really fast rebound in the front. When I come off a jump now, my front end just dives to the ground. I cant pick the front end up for the life of me!

Speaking of fast rebound, incase anybody else runs into this, I have been setting my shocks up for as little rebound as possible by having the shock shaft all the way in the body when I set the bladder. Now, my rebound is so fast that it will pull the bladder into the body I went through a couple brand new bladders before I caught on the the problem.

The pistons are pretty awesome though. Very intimidating at first but getting easier pretty fast. I can tell what my car is doing and what it needs. Its awesome to be able to adjust just one aspect instead of both.

Running valve stack on top in the front, on the bottom in the rear.

Originally Posted by mfawv

can i have more, PLEASE...........

More pistons?

[Harvo]

Originally Posted by Erik D_lux

Yeah, thanks a bunch for the heads up!


Speaking of fast rebound, incase anybody else runs into this, I have been setting my shocks up for as little rebound as possible by having the shock shaft all the way in the body when I set the bladder. Now, my rebound is so fast that it will pull the bladder into the body I went through a couple brand new bladders before I caught on the the problem.

Can you explain this more? Every time I close one of these shocks up the shaft has to be all the way in or it doesn't get all the air out. I guess I'm not sure what you mean by "setting the bladder". And what rebounds the shocks so fast they suck in the bladder? Not the springs right? gravity? This is awesome tech... this post just confused me. Thanks