Super 300 rebuild questions

[Harvo]

I have had the Super 300s on my berg since they came out. They work so great with just a shot of WD40 now and then, that I have never given them any more thought.

Last night during a teardown I noticed a fair amount of play in the CVD pin on one side. It looks like where the little pin goes through the big one. I have a rebuild kit from waaayy back so i looked up the original 300 thread.

first... I know play is a bad thing... but how much is OK before breakage is a real concern?

Second... How have you guys found to be the best way to get the pin retaining ring off the CVD when it's in fine shape. (not warped bent or boogered up)

Thanks-

[JeremyH]

Originally Posted by Harvo

Second... How have you guys found to be the best way to get the pin retaining ring off the CVD when it's in fine shape. (not warped bent or boogered up)

Take a pair of wire strippers (with the pointy edges), grip it at the lip of the cup (between the lip and the ring) and tap the end of the stripper ()....should come right off.

[DickyT]

Originally Posted by JeremyH

tap the end of the stripper ()

[CAIRN]

Interesting...

Which end gets tapped, exactly? Photos are helpful.

[DickyT]

Originally Posted by CAIRN

Interesting...

Which end of gets tapped, exactly? Photos are helpful.

Video too please!


I have not seen a stripper since my bachelor party a little over 8 years, so I am due for a re-education on the subject.

[Speedracer19]

Use a heat gun & heat the retainer ring & use a small bladed screwdriver & tap around the edge on the stub end & it should slide off.
I have used a torch but it(the whole CVD assy gets really hot, really quick) & WD 40 for the stubborn rings.

[helhedded]

Jeremy's method works great, in fact years ago I asked John (SDS) about it and he told me to use the same method.

[jcboof]

Most if the slop you see is the actual pin wearing and tapering on the ends and in the middle. I've broken a few of the SDS pins but I have gotten them from another source now and have yet to even start wearing them. Hell, I even broke a 300 short shaft at the Indiana state comp in 2010 with the other pins in running! Lol!

One little pointer for ya. Take this for what you will but I've owned 4 sets of 300s now and not one single one would ever spin completely bind free. I have always mirror polished the ball and cup as well as ran a drill bit through the slot on the cup to clean out any burrs and make them equal on each side. After polishing and deburring the ball end and cup I would then break them in on my drill for about 10 mins each with fresh grease. I just mocked up a little jig with my drill and a bearing and cranked em to max angle and let the drill run full speed. Moving the stub end to a different position about every 5 minutes.

I did this with new 300s and after a rebuild with new pins and barrels. Makes a huge difference IMO.

[Speedracer19]

As slop goes, from what i've found is the pin wears the most(as posted above) & will give quite a bit of movement at the wheel. How much is up to you and we know you are a perfectionist

Mine is about an 1/8 to a 1/4 & doesn't seem to have to much when the power is on.

[JeremyH]

Originally Posted by CAIRN

Interesting...

Which end of gets tapped, exactly? Photos are helpful.

Either end is probably gonna get you hurt.

Originally Posted by helhedded

Jeremy's method works great, in fact years ago I asked John (SDS) about it and he told me to use the same method.

Yep, that's who told me.

[Harvo]

So I went to tap a stripper on the back end. It didn't help with the CVD but it was an interesting distraction. My wife was pretty mad at you guys for the advice

Finally got it though. It was a stubborn booger. I had to use a really thin knife blade to get in the groove.

You were correct. The pin was worn pretty good on each side where it passed into the barrel and the barrel was grooved pretty good too.

Got it all buttoned back up now and the slop is gone. I only found the problem because I put in an RCBros locker last night and it wasn't as slop free as everyone said it should be... I found a gear pin that was broken and the sloppy CVD.

Thanks guys.

[ittybitty]

Originally Posted by Harvo

Finally got it though. It was a stubborn booger. I had to use a really thin knife blade to get in the groove.

I was gonna say I typically use an xacto knife to get it started and then a flat blade screw driver and something to tap it with if necessary. Glad you got it fixed up!

[TURBOFEST]

I just dremel disk the fkr's off and put new ones on LOLOL

true story

[Farmer]

Originally Posted by TURBOFEST

I just dremel disk the fkr's off and put new ones on LOLOL

true story

F_cking hilariuos

Later,
Farmer

[Harvo]

Originally Posted by TURBOFEST

I just dremel disk the fkr's off and put new ones on LOLOL

true story

That was my next step if I hadn't gotten them off.

[The Violator]

Originally Posted by jcboof

Most if the slop you see is the actual pin wearing and tapering on the ends and in the middle. I've broken a few of the SDS pins but I have gotten them from another source now and have yet to even start wearing them. Hell, I even broke a 300 short shaft at the Indiana state comp in 2010 with the other pins in running! Lol!

One little pointer for ya. Take this for what you will but I've owned 4 sets of 300s now and not one single one would ever spin completely bind free. I have always mirror polished the ball and cup as well as ran a drill bit through the slot on the cup to clean out any burrs and make them equal on each side. After polishing and deburring the ball end and cup I would then break them in on my drill for about 10 mins each with fresh grease. I just mocked up a little jig with my drill and a bearing and cranked em to max angle and let the drill run full speed. Moving the stub end to a different position about every 5 minutes.

I did this with new 300s and after a rebuild with new pins and barrels. Makes a huge difference IMO.

My trick has been to take it apart, dip the entire ball in grease, dip the grease in sand blast media, and put it back together. Spin the axle shaft with a drill, and hold the stub with a rag. Run it changing the angle for about 2-3 minutes. Take the entire thing apart, and clean it all up with brake cleaner. Assemble the cvd, and spray with wd40. The sand/grease really cleans up the rough edges, and makes it smooth again. I have never replaced a one thing in my pair of cvd's, and they are from the first batch delivered to worlds 3 or 4 years ago. Still on the original pins, retainers, etc.

[jcboof]

Originally Posted by The Violator

My trick has been to take it apart, dip the entire ball in grease, dip the grease in sand blast media, and put it back together. Spin the axle shaft with a drill, and hold the stub with a rag. Run it changing the angle for about 2-3 minutes. Take the entire thing apart, and clean it all up with brake cleaner. Assemble the cvd, and spray with wd40. The sand/grease really cleans up the rough edges, and makes it smooth again. I have never replaced a one thing in my pair of cvd's, and they are from the first batch delivered to worlds 3 or 4 years ago. Still on the original pins, retainers, etc.

Sounds like a good and simple idea to get it broke in quickly.