HD 300 question

[oneeye]

What is the small ring for that comes with the axles. I Installed them and I can't figure out what its for. Also because we have to use raith knuckles and Chubs I am now over 11 in. wide with 1 IN. wheels. What with are you getting with the set up you are running?

[ROWDY RACING]

The rings are shims for inbetween the knuckle bearing and knuckle, not needed for all setups.

[oneeye]

Ya that's what I thought. I just shimmed it a different way.

[95geo]

I'm perfectly happy with where the width ended up, I couldn't have planned it any better if I started from scratch. I may even try to end up a little wider so I can run the smallest hub possible. And no, it wouldnt be for weight reasons....

Time for some new hubs!

[oneeye]

Originally Posted by 95geo

I'm perfectly happy with where the width ended up, I couldn't have planned it any better if I started from scratch. I may even try to end up a little wider so I can run the smallest hub possible. And no, it wouldnt be for weight reasons....

Time for some new hubs!

So I take it you came up with the same with?

[ROWDY RACING]

Originally Posted by 95geo

I'm perfectly happy with where the width ended up, I couldn't have planned it any better if I started from scratch. I may even try to end up a little wider so I can run the smallest hub possible. And no, it wouldnt be for weight reasons....

Time for some new hubs!

See your luck is not all bad.

[ittybitty]

Those shims are meant to go behind the larger knuckle bearing in order to align the u joints with the kingpins within 1 or 2 thousandths...per SDS.

[95geo]

Originally Posted by ittybitty

Those shims are meant to go behind the larger knuckle bearing in order to align the u joints with the kingpins within 1 or 2 thousandths...per SDS.

If the shim goes between the shaft and the inner large bearing then I have the wrong size shim. It doesn't fit over the 10mm shoulder that the big bearing goes on. Good thing they're going back!

On my axle, the outside of the tires with flat face 1" wide wheels with shaved boss claws and a .600" or .725" hub (can't remember what I put on them right this minute) is right at 11" overall. With similar hubs on the rear and Dlux aluminum shafts the rear matches the front just about perfectly.

[ROWDY RACING]

Originally Posted by 95geo

If the shim goes between the shaft and the inner large bearing then I have the wrong size shim. It doesn't fit over the 10mm shoulder that the big bearing goes on.

They go between the big bearing and the knuckle. With the shim installed on mine if I tighten the wheel nuts down the tires will not turn, take the shims out and all is good.

[ittybitty]

Originally Posted by ROWDY RACING

They go between the big bearing and the knuckle. With the shim installed on mine if I tighten the wheel nuts down the tires will not turn, take the shims out and all is good.

Which wheel hexes are you using? Do they still have the rib around the backside that spaces them off of the outer knuckle bearing? If not that could be why you're having that issue...

[ROWDY RACING]

Originally Posted by ittybitty

Which wheel hexes are you using? Do they still have the rib around the backside that spaces them off of the outer knuckle bearing? If not that could be why you're having that issue...

Mine are in a XR with Wraith knuckles, stock hubs the ribs are still there after the drilling.

It's really not a big deal, without the shims they seem to be money.

PM coming at ya.

[SDS Customz]

Sorry guys just saw this one. If everyone would still post the questions in the general thread its easier to keep up on!!

The shim should go in between the large bearing and the knuckle. Agian a machinist issue that im not going to get into. just wastn in the cards to redo 600 stubs over, since it would have delayed us even further.. simple fix to add the shim. If you arent maxing out in the 60+ degree steering range you prob. dont need it. If its used and the hex binds when tightening the wheel nut, the simple solution is to sand the back of the hex a little. I have a set that worked w/ the shims in and several that didnt. Either way not a huge deal.

As far as width My new Ti-Fighter is acctually slightly wider at the kingpins then a berg, and Im 10 3/4" at the outside of my shaved boss claws

[95geo]

Originally Posted by SDS Customz

Sorry guys just saw this one. If everyone would still post the questions in the general thread its easier to keep up on!!

The shim should go in between the large bearing and the knuckle. Agian a machinist issue that im not going to get into. just wastn in the cards to redo 600 stubs over, since it would have delayed us even further.. simple fix to add the shim. If you arent maxing out in the 60+ degree steering range you prob. dont need it. If its used and the hex binds when tightening the wheel nut, the simple solution is to sand the back of the hex a little. I have a set that worked w/ the shims in and several that didnt. Either way not a huge deal.

For what it's worth, I saw a pair of HD's the other day and I was pleased to see that the shim included with them had the ID opened up so it is able to fit over the 10mm shoulder and be placed in the correct location, which is between the large bearing and the stub shaft.

Also, in order to ensure the shafts are installed properly to get the most life out of them, the wheel hex does not need any modifications. What does need to happen is to shim the small bearing out on the shaft so when the wheel hex is tightened, it does not bind the bearings up when tightening the wheel nut.

If your HD's are installed properly, you should have almost no movement in the stub shaft and you MUST be able to tighten the wheel nut down a significant amount WITHOUT the drive pin and end up with a nice free spinning stub shaft. It is best to do this shimming/adjusting with the shaft out of the car but still attached to the outer knuckle.

With this type of precise setup you will not be able to run an outer tube bearing as the inner shaft needs to wiggle a small amount when it's at higher steering angles. I placed a delrin bushing in place of the tube bearing and it works well to keep the shaft centered but not too centered as to bind things up.

If anyone has questions about how to set the 300HD's up so you can get the most life and strength out of them, feel free to send me your questions and I'll do my best to help out.

[Farmer]

Originally Posted by 95geo

For what it's worth, I saw a pair of HD's the other day and I was pleased to see that the shim included with them had the ID opened up so it is able to fit over the 10mm shoulder and be placed in the correct location, which is between the large bearing and the stub shaft.

Also, in order to ensure the shafts are installed properly to get the most life out of them, the wheel hex does not need any modifications. What does need to happen is to shim the small bearing out on the shaft so when the wheel hex is tightened, it does not bind the bearings up when tightening the wheel nut.

If your HD's are installed properly, you should have almost no movement in the stub shaft and you MUST be able to tighten the wheel nut down a significant amount WITHOUT the drive pin and end up with a nice free spinning stub shaft. It is best to do this shimming/adjusting with the shaft out of the car but still attached to the outer knuckle.

With this type of precise setup you will not be able to run an outer tube bearing as the inner shaft needs to wiggle a small amount when it's at higher steering angles. I placed a delrin bushing in place of the tube bearing and it works well to keep the shaft centered but not too centered as to bind things up.

If anyone has questions about how to set the 300HD's up so you can get the most life and strength out of them, feel free to send me your questions and I'll do my best to help out.

Thanks Bryce, I really appreciate the help with getting them set up right Other than all the brass powder all over the front end they are great. I hope the bushings last
Later,
Farmer

[95geo]

Try putting some sort of lubrication on them, either the same stuff you use on your gears or something heavier.