Jordi's Stingray Dlux CF build

[jordi555]

I was lucky enough to get my set of the baddest axles around earlier this week

Last year was a bad year for me right up to March time this year, a series of injuries prevented me from doing much at all. So I though it was about time I got back into this, with no half measures !

I'll post up some pictures later, but for now here are the specs, this is almost a completely new truck for me

Big thanks to Juan and Erik D for hooking me up with some of the best crawler parts I know of..

UGC CF Stingray chassis
Courtesy of Erik D, cf gearboxes and delrin tubes, a new set of CF wheels, Ti lower links, machined Bully knuckles and front axles.
Lightened gears
Brood 35t HHK's
Twin smashed micro sidewinders, switched from fxr's in my old truck
3.5'' bigbores, re vamped, wait for the pics..
Voodoo's
A whole load of tuning stuff from Crawler Innovations
New 7950
Ally hardware
Revo rod ends with stock balls, cause I think the ally ones are crappy.
4PKS

I have a lot to do on this thing to get it ready, I miss crawling and hope this should give me the inspiration I need to get back

This is as far as I've got

If you look closely you might be able to see some work in progress

[Calderwood]

Nice build sheet. Why do you think aluminum balls are crappy?

[jordi555]

Originally Posted by nigels_world

Nice build sheet. Why do you think aluminum balls are crappy?

In my shocks they became really stiff, but everywhere else they just wore out quick, the ally seems to grind against the plastic of the revo rod end.

IMHO the stock balls are a lot smoother and last longer.

[Erik D_lux]

Agreed on the above statement!

Glad you did a build thread. I cant wait to see all the new goodies bolted up together.

[jordi555]

Erik is sending me some more stuff

[stubs179]

Ya, he does that.


I think you will like the micros over the FXR's. I just switched and the micros are much smoother and have quite a bit better dragbreak.

[jordi555]

Originally Posted by stubs179

Ya, he does that.


I think you will like the micros over the FXR's. I just switched and the micros are much smoother and have quite a bit better dragbreak.

That's what I'm hoping stubs, with the 4pks on the fxrs I could never get a smooth setting for reverse, always very jumpy

I prefer castle stuff anyway

[jordi555]

Made some progress

Not quite a roller yet as I'm waiting for a new short front shaft from Erik
My upper links are mocked up in threaded rod until I'm happy with them, then I'll make some ally ones.
I had to remove the three holes for the battery mount for clearance for the lower front links.
I had a chat with Dicky T last night and he gave me a few setup tips, thanks man

[Pdog7]

Can you post some pics of the bends on the front lowers to clear the gear boxes?

[Crawllife]

I just switched to mamba micro pros and a 4pl. Super smooth on the start! I really missed out by not doing this sooner.

[Krawler Konceptz]

Looking really good so far. I enjoy driving my Stingray, it just plain works. Keep up the great work.

Rob

[Calderwood]

Originally Posted by jordi555

In my shocks they became really stiff, but everywhere else they just wore out quick, the ally seems to grind against the plastic of the revo rod end.

IMHO the stock balls are a lot smoother and last longer.

I almost bought the titanium balls instead of the traxxas aluminum balls. Now I'm starting to wish I had if you say the aluminum balls wear out fast. There only $20 either way so I guess if they wear out fast I'll just try the $20 titanium balls next.

[jordi555]

Originally Posted by Pdog7

Can you post some pics of the bends on the front lowers to clear the gear boxes?

Hope this helps

I am possibly going to try in-boarding the shocks at the top, but will see how it feels after I've filled the shocks tonight

I kept the link mounts approx 5mm in from the knuckle and had to just file the outside edge so the rod end just missed, without it was binding a little.

I want this truck to be butter smooth and have taken more care with links than ever before, on other trucks I've built there have always been binding issues of some sort somewhere, but the weight always seemed to overcome this.
Not so with this one as I'll probably be just under 4lb

[stubs179]

What is the reason for the shocks and links being on the outside of the mounts?

[jordi555]

Originally Posted by stubs179

What is the reason for the shocks and links being on the outside of the mounts?

Purely for clearance

I may bring the mounts in towards the case a touch yet, but still leave the links on the outside.

[ittybitty]

doesn't your shock rod end bind on the link mount when you flex it to one side or the other?

[jordi555]

Originally Posted by ittybitty

doesn't your shock rod end bind on the link mount when you flex it to one side or the other?

There is no binding whatsoever in any part of the suspension cycle

[ittybitty]

Originally Posted by jordi555

There is no binding whatsoever in any part of the suspension cycle

Yeah I saw where you said that before, but thought I'd ask anyway.

[Pdog7]

Thanks Jordi
I'm having trouble with the links I've been using binding on the case. I did find that if the battery mount tabs are removed it helps a little. I think your set-up will be the ticket.

[jordi555]

Getting ever closer..here is a list of what I've been up to..

I've been experimenting with a few things including Erik D knuckle weight holders he sent me for the Bully knuckles
I've managed to put 2oz on each knuckle which feels about right, this sets my balance point right on the pivot at the end of the lower front links.

Made up a battery mount which mounts of the servo and attaches through the top spare hole of the link mount on the axle.

Also I've put in a couple of E trays ready for the electrics, (I'll decide whether to use one or both depending how small the footprint is later this week when I've had chance to smash the micro's)
One on the back of the motor and one inside the chassis over where the front and rear lower links meet.

Built up my gold Voodoos on a set of new Erik D wheels, interested to test these out!

I've sent my motors away for some magic working on them

RTR my truck will be just under 4lbs

A few pics..












After some time messing whether to run the dual sheer Bully hexes or the Erik D hubs, I've decided to run both!
Hexes on the front, hubs at the back, couple of reasons for this, speed of wheel change (12 screws to remove Erik D hubs, 2 screws for hexes)
and the hexes with SLW hubs are heavier as I needed some more weight towards the front to help bias.

This may change tho' !