Picklewagon's Pitbull build (newbie friendly)

[picklewagon]

I wanted to do a newbie friendly build thread to try to keep Berg's and comping alive. This build will take awhile, I've got a my hands full at home and work right now, but I've realized that with all the nicknames and almost secret code used in this forum, it's difficult for someone new to comp crawling to navigate the berg section. I'm not looking for a bunch of replies, because I'm trying to keep this easy to dig through if someone is looking to get into bergs. If you are an avid or seasoned crawler, this is going to be a very boring thread for you to read! I'll try to organize posts with definitions on the bottom.

I knew I wanted a light crawler, which is the current trend, but I am not going to go crazy with the gram counting. I also started with 2 other V1 bergs and spares and electronics, so I am lucky enough to not have to source and buy ALL the parts for this build.. I ordered some classicutcustoms wheels, put bull chassis, and gear cases and got started.

Newbie definitions:
V1 Berg axles- Enroute made a crawler called a "Berg". Most people just bought their axles and built a rig around them. there are vendors on this forum that make/sell replacement and hop up parts for them. There are even vendors who can sell you complete axles with their parts, berg parts or or many combinations.


Classicutcustoms-vendor on this forum who makes many berg-like hop ups.

Pitbull Chassis-bodyless style carbon fiber MOA chassis made by classicutcustoms. He can provide you with the suspension links made of titanium as well

Classicutcustoms gear cases- aftermarket gear cases made of carbon fiber and delrin that accept berg gears and berg axle tubes. The gear cases also hold the motors and this particular set are different front and rear... Front is longer than stock to make room for mounting a steering servo behind the axle tube, rear is short and stacks gears high to clear the rocks better.

[picklewagon]

Chassis going together with Traxxis big bore shocks. I installed internal limiters to get the shocks at 3.75 inches after cap mod and installed mini T springs on JerpinDoug spring cups

Traxxis big bores- shocks made for as an upgrade for Traxxas vehicles. They come in different lengths.

Shock cap mod- a modification to the shock cap to add a rod end to the top of a shock to allow it to pivot freely at both ends. You can search for the YouTube video on how to do this.

Mini T springs- a Losi spring set that is small springs that fit on the tip of the shock body of big bores instead of all the way to the top and around the shock body. One of the goals is a lot of steering and larger diameter springs will hit the tire when you turn the wheels way left or way right.
Internal limiters- spacers of some sort (rubber tubing, plastic tube) that go on the shock shaft under the piston to limit the free length of the shock to what you want to run. Too short of a shock and you won't have ground clearance, too long and the rig will be top heavy and unstable.

JeepinDoug spring cups- Doug is a friend of mine and a vendor here, one of the things he makes are spring cups to hold the mini T springs without a installation groove so they won't fall off while crawling.

JeepinDougs spring cups link.... Mini T-Cups, Big Bore spring retainers

[picklewagon]

Mounted classicutcudtom wheels up with voodoo tires and crawler innovations comp cut foams. Not glued yet!

Voodoo tires- very popular small pin tire that are available in different softness (compounds). I got mine from Crawler Innovations

Crawler Innovations- vendor here that also has a website. They are the kings of foam for tires. Their website explains more than I could here on the forum

Crawler Innovations foams- inner tire foams that have 2 densities to them, a soft outer and stiffer inner, making the the tire tread soft to get traction but the harder inner foam helps keep the sidewall from folding over and supports the weight of the rig.

Glue tires- everyone used to use beadlock type wheels, the trend now is to keep wheels light and simple and glue them to the rims that aren't capable of beadlocks to keep everything light weight. The downside is the tires and foams aren't easily changed or replaced.

[picklewagon]

Mounted up shifts, don't know what spacers I'll end up with yet.

Shifts- wheel hubs from a vendor (lattice engineering) that drive the wheel directly of the inner axle pin instead of using the pin to drive a hex to drive a hub to drive a wheel... They come with spacers to change the offset for adjusting the track width of the rig.

[Erik D_lux]

Originally Posted by picklewagon

Newbie definitions:
V1 Berg axles- Enroute made a crawler called a "Berg". Most people just bought their axles and built a rig around them. Enroute then discontinued them and no longer support the parts for them.

Please make this rumor go away.

[KJ10]

New Age Berg 2.2 Complete Assembled Axle Pair (2 each) - The Crawlers Store LLC

They show up here, occasionally. They only seem to have 1 set in stock at a time, though. If they aren't still being made, there is a stockpile, somewhere.

[Erik D_lux]

I am a dealer for their parts so I can get anything you want all day long, as many as you want.

[KJ10]

Even better, then. There may even be hope for those V3s I got from a buddy, eventually!

[picklewagon]

Originally Posted by Erik D_lux

Please make this rumor go away.

Thanks for the tip, edited post, my apologies, I fell into the same rumor thanks for calling me on my $h1t.

Might want to delete, o.p. is changed.

[picklewagon]

I got my Dlux Fabs V2 steering knuckles and put them together to test fit with my old Super 300's and vanquish chubs. These things are amazing, I like to call them "golden biscuits". I am casting some lead slugs for the weight holes just to have more adjustability available to me for test runs. I had to run a flat file across the steering arm screws a few times to get them to clear MY particular wheels, but that is the reason I'm test fitting everything before final assembly.

Dlux Fabs- vendor here on RCC and also has a website. You can basically build a world class crawler from his website. From what I can tell he's somewhat of a mad scientist and is thinking outside the box, bringing new ideas and products to light. Check it out... DLUX FAB

Super 300- CVD or universal joint type inner axles made by SDS Customz (vendor here on RCC). I don't know if these are available any longer, but I had some old ones around so I'm using them for now.

Chubs- slang for c-hubs. These connect the steering knuckle to the axle tube on a pivot for the steering to move. They aren't made for bergs directly, but people have been modifying berg tubes to accept chubs for some time now. It's gone as far as vendors like Dlux Fabs, classicutcustins, RCBros and others are making axle tubes that bolt to berg cases, then accept "chubs". These axles are being made in very light weight materials. The options are getting endless.

Dlux v2 knuckles- Dlux Fabs steering knuckles that are adjustable front axle weight all in one package. These are custom order hand made awesomeness. The options available are huge so they are made to order. You will need to know what CVD's you will be running before you order these, and decide what material you want them made from.

Link to Dlux V2 knuckle thread... Dlux custom knuckles V2!

[picklewagon]

Realized my chassis photo is WEAK! Here's a link with more info and better pics (not my thread)

Bulldog Pitbull 2.2Pro chassis on Sale!

[J-Money]

Originally Posted by picklewagon

I got my Dlux Fabs V2 steering knuckles and put them together to test fit with my old Super 300's and vanquish chubs. These things are amazing, I like to call them "golden biscuits". I am casting some lead slugs for the weight holes just to have more adjustability available to me for test runs. I had to run a flat file across the steering arm screws a few times to get them to clear MY particular wheels, but that is the reason I'm test fitting everything before final assembly.

Dlux Fabs- vendor here on RCC and also has a website. You can basically build a world class crawler from his website. From what I can tell he's somewhat of a mad scientist and is thinking outside the box, bringing new ideas and products to light. Check it out... DLUX FAB

Super 300- CVD or universal joint type inner axles made by SDS Customz (vendor here on RCC). I don't know if these are available any longer, but I had some old ones around so I'm using them for now.

Chubs- slang for c-hubs. These connect the steering knuckle to the axle tube on a pivot for the steering to move. They aren't made for bergs directly, but people have been modifying berg tubes to accept chubs for some time now. It's gone as far as vendors like Dlux Fabs, classicutcustins, RCBros and others are making axle tubes that bolt to berg cases, then accept "chubs". These axles are being made in very light weight materials. The options are getting endless.

Dlux v2 knuckles- Dlux Fabs steering knuckles that are adjustable front axle weight all in one package. These are custom order hand made awesomeness. The options available are huge so they are made to order. You will need to know what CVD's you will be running before you order these, and decide what material you want them made from.

Link to Dlux V2 knuckle thread... Dlux custom knuckles V2!

Going to order a set myself just need to decide slugs or no slugs. what holds the slugs in the button head screws? Is there a hole in the back of the brass that you can push the slugs out if they get stuck? Nice build to man

[picklewagon]

I went with slugs for adjustability... Too heavy, take them out and having slug holes lighten them up.

Yes, button head M3 screws hold slugs in, mine can sneak by the screws I have so I backed up the screws with little washers I had around.

There is no hole on the inner most side to push weights out, but the weights have some purpose made slop in them, so they won't get stuck.

Hope this helps, the quality of the knuckles are amazing, you won't be disappointed! They even have holes for steering stops built in if you choose to use them.

Newbie definitions:
Steering stops-some device or part or screw to limit how far the front wheels will travel left to right. The point is not to lessen the steering, but to protect parts from breaking or wearing out from turning too far.

[Erik D_lux]

Originally Posted by J-Money

what holds the slugs in the button head screws?

They were designed to have one of my add on brass rings hold everything in but a screw and washer work as well if you dont want to add more weight.

[stubs179]

Originally Posted by J-Money

Going to order a set myself just need to decide slugs or no slugs. what holds the slugs in the button head screws? Is there a hole in the back of the brass that you can push the slugs out if they get stuck? Nice build to man

I would definitely go with the slug holes.

[Master Basher]

Great idea thanks for the thread. I have an all original first edition berg that I need some cvd's for to get that high steering angle. I'm confused by all the offerings for cvd's. Could you point me to a set that would work on my rig? I understand that I need zero ackerman knuckles too right?

Thanks.

here is a pic for your enjoyment:
http://i86.photobucket.com/albums/k9...psk2yimx9z.jpg


It now has 45t's and droop in the front and crawls like crazy. I'm prolly gonna do smashed br duals in it soon too.

[picklewagon]

Good question. I'm not the best guy to ask because I haven't been shopping for CVD's in awhile. My recommendation is to think about how far the stock axle tubes will take you and how serious you are about building a great rig... The CVD type will be defined by what steering knuckles you are going to run, the steering knuckles COULD be defined by what chubs (c-hubs) your going to run, and the chubs you run could be defined by that axle tubes you going to run... It's kinda a process from the inside out.. {note that your axles now have the c-hubs attached permanently, which worked fine for me for years, but there are miles of options now.

If you wanted to just slap CVD's in there and call it good, contact ErikDLux and see if his will work, I'm not sure. Also good to note, stock berg uses a smaller weaker stub shaft so you will have to drill out your wheel hex's to make new ones work, as well as having steering knuckle bearings with a larger inside diameter.... Confused yet? I am.

Definitions
Stub shaft- the outer most part of the inner front axle. It's what the wheel actually bolts onto. It's driven by the inner axle and has a pivot of some type to allow the steering to work while still driving the front wheels... These are good to have spares of, if you drive as poorly as I do, you'll break one.

[picklewagon]

I was searching for a place for all these electronics in such a small chassis, so I decided to smash my FXR's. I'm not an electronics wiz, but have been soldering Rc cars since we used to solder are nicad cells together back in gold tub RC10 days. For my skill level, it looked great! I checked for continuity between the positive and negative with my Fluke meter and had none. Put it to a battery and it worked flawlessly..... Then heard a small sizzle... Then let all the smoke out of the wires! Ruined my ESC's. I still for the life of me can't find what I did wrong. The moral of the story is if your not completely confident with soldering, leave smashing to the pros. ChrisTheBatteryMan sells a smashing service and has a website called CreationFab - Crawler Accessories and Custom soldering Services

Definitions
Smash-removing the plastic cases from electronics to make them smaller. Many run 2 ESC's, and if that's the case, smashing them refers to removing both the cases and soldering them together in a tiny package.

FXR's- brushed type ESC's made by Tekin, some people love them, some are convinced they don't have enough brake power for a crawler.

Continuity- fancy word for connection. If there is continuity, conductors (wires or metal) are touching each other somewhere. It's measured in Ohms and when there is continuity, the ohms measurement is called "resistance". In my use above, I was making sure there was no continuity because I was testing for any shorts.

Fluke meter- a high quality brand of electrical multimeter, you don't need one of these, but I have a few for my work.

Before pic...

[picklewagon]

After...

[picklewagon]

The bad news is there's 3 ohms resistance between the positive and the ground, the good news is I get to try different ESC's now. Mixed blessing I guess.

Stinky burned up junk.