Sessions YTC Dlux berg build

[EverettY]

You can always just use regular rod end balls and put spacers on either side...

[crawl-o-matic]

what he said

[TSK]

Originally Posted by more_session_please

Holy crap they are expensive I can get them on ebay for about 20 bucks a pack but because there are only 2 of the centered ones in each pack you have to get 2. They have them is smaller packs that are not aluminum for around 4 bucks a pack but I am not sure of the weight difference. Would I be able to use all of the regular balls for the rod ends? That would at least make the cost a little more bearable.

Integy makes a set of those same things. They are made from a kinda shoddy alloy (the trazzas ones are hardened AL) so if you overtighten they can deform a bit. Otherwise they serve that purpose well and come in a bunch of colors. And they are MUCH MUCH cheaper.

Integy Alloy ball set. Only $7!

http://www.integy.com/st_prod.html?p...w#.UzcWxbCPKJs

They also have this Titanium ball set. I have never tried these though.

http://www.integy.com/st_prod.html?p...w#.UzcWH7CPKJs

Take note that both kits have 28 pieces, but they only have 2 pair of the wider balls, and those are one pair of centered balls and one pair of offset balls.

[Session]

Originally Posted by TheSCorpionKing

Integy makes a set of those same things. They are made from a kinda shoddy alloy (the trazzas ones are hardened AL) so if you overtighten they can deform a bit. Otherwise they serve that purpose well and come in a bunch of colors. And they are MUCH MUCH cheaper.

Integy Alloy ball set. Only $7!

Alloy 5.8mm Ball End (2 for 1/10 Revo, E-Revo, Summit for R/C or RC - Team Integy

They also have this Titanium ball set. I have never tried these though.

Titanium 5.8mm Ball end (2 for Traxxas 1/10 Revo, E-Revo, Summit for R/C or RC - Team Integy

Take note that both kits have 28 pieces, but they only have 2 pair of the wider balls, and those are one pair of centered balls and one pair of offset balls.

Thanks for the links! I have not been a fan of anything Integy after some crappy shocks I put on a E maxx a long time ago but hopefully they can't screw up something this simple I like the Ti idea as I could use them to replace all of the balls on the truck.

[Session]

The fun begins. Thanks Erik!

[Session]

I still need a little help with a couple of things.

Should I start with 13t or 14t pinions?

What gauge of wire do I need to do all of the wiring? I do not want to go too skinny just for weights sake but don't need ultra thick either.

Do I need bullet connectors? If so how many and what size?

Where can I get some info on wiring this rig. I have not done this in years and when I did it was a single motor not 2.

[J-Money]

Bullets are not nessary unless you what to change out your motors on the fly,your Holmes esc's should have enough wire since they are presmashed if you need more 16 to 18ga for a power plug I suggest MICRO deans" big plugs look gaudy IMO" but if you must EC3 work flawless too.Your bec taps into your power red and blk,if you do a search Harley has some great vids on here for programing futaba radios it helps tremendously and is step by step. Not sure if you need a wiring diagram Holmes esc's I think are labeled front and rear motor and power, I can give something for pluging in the receiver if you need, I hope this helps you and good luck brother man

[Erik D_lux]

I agree with J-Money. 16-18ga wire (I run 20ga however). I also have never understood connectors at the motor or ESC. I just solder everything on.

Just start with a 13t pinion. I wouldnt over think it took much. RRP1113 would be the part number.

For your offset ball issue, you can get TRA5355. They are usually about $5 for the set of 4. They are steel and not aluminum. If you want aluminum, you need to pony up and pay the price AFAIK. I have the steel balls here in stock if you need them, just let me know.

[Session]

Originally Posted by J-Money

Bullets are not nessary unless you what to change out your motors on the fly,your Holmes esc's should have enough wire since they are presmashed if you need more 16 to 18ga for a power plug I suggest MICRO deans" big plugs look gaudy IMO" but if you must EC3 work flawless too.Your bec taps into your power red and blk,if you do a search Harley has some great vids on here for programing futaba radios it helps tremendously and is step by step. Not sure if you need a wiring diagram Holmes esc's I think are labeled front and rear motor and power, I can give something for pluging in the receiver if you need, I hope this helps you and good luck brother man

Originally Posted by Erik D_lux

I agree with J-Money. 16-18ga wire (I run 20ga however). I also have never understood connectors at the motor or ESC. I just solder everything on.

Just start with a 13t pinion. I wouldnt over think it took much. RRP1113 would be the part number.

For your offset ball issue, you can get TRA5355. They are usually about $5 for the set of 4. They are steel and not aluminum. If you want aluminum, you need to pony up and pay the price AFAIK. I have the steel balls here in stock if you need them, just let me know.

Thanks guys, great info

I was told to use the bullets when I was learning the first time around. Maybe it was the cool thing to do in 2008

[ax10tn]

I don't see a chassis in in that spread of great parts . I do see some links though . You sure did choose some awesome parts .

[Session]

Originally Posted by ax10tn

I don't see a chassis in in that spread of great parts . I do see some links though . You sure did choose some awesome parts .

page 3 post 54 and thanks

[Session]

More goodies!

[krawlfreak]

Originally Posted by more_session_please

Holy crap they are expensive I can get them on ebay for about 20 bucks a pack but because there are only 2 of the centered ones in each pack you have to get 2. They have them is smaller packs that are not aluminum for around 4 bucks a pack but I am not sure of the weight difference. Would I be able to use all of the regular balls for the rod ends? That would at least make the cost a little more bearable.

just stack two reg balls for the time being.(one in the rod end and another.)

start with the rod ends in the outer most position.

[Session]

Originally Posted by krawlfreak

just stack two reg balls for the time being.(one in the rod end and another.)

start with the rod ends in the outer most position.

Thank you sir!

[Session]

Well it has been kind of slow the last few days but I have finished a bunch of the prep work. I did some grinding, dremeling and brass cutting while I am waiting on more parts. I misunderstood Erik when I ordered the axel's and long story short I sent him some more money and the drilled stock gears for two sets of RCbro's. Not only are his gears the bomb he is a local vendor I want to support as much as I can.

Wheels on order from Tomi. Great guy to deal with.

Narrowed Voodoos and foams from Hitt. Cool dude!

Should be about a week out on the HH goodies.

Well I will throw up a few boring pic's and call it a day.

There is a crawler on this table



High tech crawler assembly module



Last but not least, the days only goodie delivery These are really nice. I will get a few more when they are back in stock.

[Session]

So I have been stuck in a holding pattern for the last week and a half. Still waiting on motors and ESC from HH, Wheels from Tomi have shipped so next week hopefully and tires and foams around the same time I am guessing.

I really wish I had help to make sure I don't screw anything up. I can get it all together but there are a lot of things with these axel's that have to be set at a certain point verses just turning it till it clicks and it is done. I am hoping I will be ready for the May ORCRC comp.

I do have a question for everyone. I am going to replace the chassis screws and want to know if I should get aluminum or Ti for the ones that hold all of the body panels together? I was planing on using Ti for everything else. Also all of the screws that came with both the chassis and axel's are metric and use a 2mm hex driver. What size and pitch are they? The smallest metric size Lunsford has is 3mm. Is that what size the ones I already have are?

[Beerman Crawler]

Originally Posted by more_session_please

So I have been stuck in a holding pattern for the last week and a half. Still waiting on motors and ESC from HH, Wheels from Tomi have shipped so next week hopefully and tires and foams around the same time I am guessing.

I really wish I had help to make sure I don't screw anything up. I can get it all together but there are a lot of things with these axel's that have to be set at a certain point verses just turning it till it clicks and it is done. I am hoping I will be ready for the May ORCRC comp.

I do have a question for everyone. I am going to replace the chassis screws and want to know if I should get aluminum or Ti for the ones that hold all of the body panels together? I was planing on using Ti for everything else. Also all of the screws that came with both the chassis and axel's are metric and use a 2mm hex driver. What size and pitch are they? The smallest metric size Lunsford has is 3mm. Is that what size the ones I already have are?

A lot of people use aluminum on everything. Ti is a little over kill but i use Ti on my links/link mounts and shocks, then aluminum for everything else. the 3mm from lunsford is what you want.

[stubs179]

There are a few vendors that sell axle jigs. You should look into getting one or making one. Then just bolt the cases together with the tubes, slide the link mounts on and the C's/knuckles, bolt your links, chassis and shocks on and put it into the jig. It makes it very easy to get all the link mounts and C's clocked properly and evenly. The first couple of sets I did I tried to eyeball it and they came out a little off. After I started using a jig they come out perfect every time.

[EverettY]

I run aluminum hardware everywhere on my rig except for the really long screws that you can't get in aluminum... Never had an issue... Those batteries are great! I have a few of them and I love them Looking forward to meeting you and seeing this rig next month

[Session]

Originally Posted by stubs179

There are a few vendors that sell axle jigs. You should look into getting one or making one. Then just bolt the cases together with the tubes, slide the link mounts on and the C's/knuckles, bolt your links, chassis and shocks on and put it into the jig. It makes it very easy to get all the link mounts and C's clocked properly and evenly. The first couple of sets I did I tried to eyeball it and they came out a little off. After I started using a jig they come out perfect every time.

I searched the Vendor section and only came across one guy selling a lexan/acrylic jig for around $75.00 Quite fancy for something I would not use very often. IDK if I want to try to make one.

Originally Posted by Beerman Crawler

A lot of people use aluminum on everything. Ti is a little over kill but i use Ti on my links/link mounts and shocks, then aluminum for everything else. the 3mm from lunsford is what you want.

That does sound like a good plan. Lunsford is where I was looking

Originally Posted by EverettY

I run aluminum hardware everywhere on my rig except for the really long screws that you can't get in aluminum... Never had an issue... Those batteries are great! I have a few of them and I love them Looking forward to meeting you and seeing this rig next month

Is Fastener Express a good place for Alum hardware? I will use the Alum wherever I can. I figure 500 mah gives a little bit of extra security for run time vs 350-450 packs just in case and I know Brood would not sell a crappy product. Price was right in the middle between cheep and Max Amps craziness and was all ready to go!
I am looking forward to meeting you as well and hopefully driving in the next comp