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Thread: Sessions YTC Dlux berg build

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Old 04-15-2014, 09:26 PM   #81
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What Tom does is take some angle aluminum and drill holes 12 1/2 inches apart and calls is good. It cost less then 10$.
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Old 04-16-2014, 09:50 AM   #82
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Yep Fastener Express is the way to go for Aluminum hardware... It's what everyone uses...
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Old 04-16-2014, 03:13 PM   #83
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I received 2 packages of goodies today



These are badass! Thanks Tomi



I got both the narrow (about 3/4) and wide (almost 1') spacers so I can run different width tires if need be.



I know they are not ultra light but I really don't think that little bit of weight matters down low on the wheels but, never fear weight weenies I am going to get Aluminum screws for the beads and Ti for mounting them


Last edited by Session; 04-16-2014 at 03:34 PM.
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Old 04-16-2014, 11:23 PM   #84
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Glad to see you're a tequila guy
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Old 04-17-2014, 01:38 PM   #85
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Glad to see you're a tequila guy
What u talkin bout Jaybe? I don't like Tequila or beer for that matter



I get my session at Winco because of the price but I hate going there so I get like 10-12 12 packs at a time. The looks you get cruising through the store with a cart full of beer are priceless The Tequila I buy by the case on your side of the river because WA wants to hump yo ass when you buy it up here. The nice thing is that I am always ready for a good time

Last edited by Session; 04-17-2014 at 01:42 PM.
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Old 04-22-2014, 07:33 PM   #86
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I need to order a battery charger and have a question.

If all I am ever going to charge is 500 mah crawler packs how much wattage is enough to get a reasonably quick charge time? I am looking at a dual 50W unit. Is 50 watts each side enough or would I be better off with a higher wattage single charger?

Also am I better off with a AC/DC unit or getting a DC only with a power supply?
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Old 04-23-2014, 06:32 PM   #87
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Well since no one wanted to help me out with post #86 I guess I will just update with a few pics.

A few goodies came today.

Before Lunsford



And after. 8 grams is not much but I will take it. I wanted to use Aluminum screws on non stressed points but most of the main chassis ones are to long and the al screws come in packs of 50 so I just used Ti.



Got my tires and foams from Hittman as well and got some practice putting one wheel together until the Aluminum screws come tomorrow.

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Old 04-23-2014, 07:01 PM   #88
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Default Re: The U help me pick build thread

The Hitec X4 AC is my favorite choice of chargers. It's ac/dc, nice to have both IMO. It may be a bit much of a charger for you now but if you ever get more rigs with different styles and sizes of batteries you would be covered. Plus charging fours pack at once is nice. Especially when like me, get to a comp and don't have a single pack charged
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Old 04-23-2014, 07:15 PM   #89
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The Hyperion EOS 1420i NET3-AD LiPo/NiMH/A123 Balancing DC Charger (14S/20A/550W) charger is my favorite. Been using it for two years now without a glitch.

Glad the tires showed, they look really good all mounted up
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Old 04-23-2014, 07:36 PM   #90
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Hitec 4 port fo sho, single port chargers boo!
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Old 04-23-2014, 07:40 PM   #91
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The Hitec X4 AC is my favorite choice of chargers. It's ac/dc, nice to have both IMO. It may be a bit much of a charger for you now but if you ever get more rigs with different styles and sizes of batteries you would be covered. Plus charging fours pack at once is nice. Especially when like me, get to a comp and don't have a single pack charged
I have been looking at that one. I think with these tiny little packs with tiny little run time we run now that having a multi port charger is a must. I have been looking at either 2 or 4 charge port chargers for the last couple of days. Amain's Protek line of chargers look good as well and they come with the JST balance boards. The Hitec you have to buy 4 of them.

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Originally Posted by Hittman View Post
The Hyperion EOS 1420i NET3-AD LiPo/NiMH/A123 Balancing DC Charger (14S/20A/550W) charger is my favorite. Been using it for two years now without a glitch.

Glad the tires showed, they look really good all mounted up
They look great and I love that they are ready to go with foams cut for them. One less thing I have to stress over on this build. Thanks Hitt


What I was trying to figure out with post 86 was how much power or wattage I needed in a charger since some are 50w and others are 300w. I found out today that for these little packs even 50w is way more then needed. I also found out that if you use the recommended charge rate that all batteries take the same amount of time to charge regardless of battery mah or charger wattage and that is what I was needing to know.
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Old 04-23-2014, 08:01 PM   #92
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I have the hitec 4x ac and I don't use any boards. Just plug them right into the charger. I love it! It is a lot of money but I think the time it saves it worth it. Ty
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Old 04-24-2014, 05:33 PM   #93
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Well look what showed up exactly one month to the day.



A while back I was asking about the hollow ball things for mounting the uppers and after some thought I just sprung for two sets of the Traxxas ones figuring I would use the other balls in all of the shocks and links as well. Anyways I got a unexpected surprise when the little spacers that are in the ball kits for some reason were a perfect fit with the long ball with spacer part for the chassis. Just about one mm wider then two regular balls together. I am amazed by how stiff this chassis is!


Last edited by Session; 04-25-2014 at 07:04 AM.
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Old 04-27-2014, 11:37 PM   #94
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Well after Tom (sourdojack) spent 8 freaking hours of his day on my rig for which I am eternally grateful I have a sort of semi complete crawler. This chassis mixed with someone else's link lengths and Dlux axles do not make a bolt it together kind of thing. Tom is going to make me new uppers and front lowers (I think we can salvage the rear lowers) to clear everything and get the Geometry right. I need to trim the carbon to get the rear shocks in the most inside hole and shorten the shocks. Then we can figure out how to mount the battery and then I should have a functioning rig, ugh!

This is what I brought him.



4 hours later.





And a couple more after that.




And a couple of more after that

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Old 04-29-2014, 12:19 PM   #95
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Anyone know who makes the angled rod ends? I thought Traxxas made some but the only ones I can find are 17 degree ends from the Losi comp crawler. Am I missing something or are those the ones to use?
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Old 04-29-2014, 02:48 PM   #96
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Axial makes them.
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Old 05-03-2014, 04:53 PM   #97
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Well after a slow week I am headed back to sourdo's house tomorrow to get er done. This package of parts from some random guy showed up today



The originals.



The new light.



New Loaded.



I have no idea how the center attaches to the inner ring but I am sure it will be cool when I figure it out

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Old 05-03-2014, 08:16 PM   #98
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I just got the wheels in today too... looked hard at the pics in Harvo's thread and finally figured it out...

Cut the bead off the inside of the tires and than put together the black rings with the flat head screws and standoffs... those go inside of the tire and glue into the backside of the bead that is still there and than the front face just glues on like a normal wheel...
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Old 05-04-2014, 07:13 AM   #99
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Originally Posted by EverettY View Post
I just got the wheels in today too... looked hard at the pics in Harvo's thread and finally figured it out...

Cut the bead off the inside of the tires and than put together the black rings with the flat head screws and standoffs... those go inside of the tire and glue into the backside of the bead that is still there and than the front face just glues on like a normal wheel...
You will also have to open up the center of your foams. I just used a sanding drum on the end of my dremel and just go slow until the foams are a tight squeeze over the inner rim. Good luck
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Old 05-04-2014, 10:28 AM   #100
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I just got the wheels in today too... looked hard at the pics in Harvo's thread and finally figured it out...

Cut the bead off the inside of the tires and than put together the black rings with the flat head screws and standoffs... those go inside of the tire and glue into the backside of the bead that is still there and than the front face just glues on like a normal wheel...
So the wheel face or center glues to the outside of the tire and then the inner disc glues to the inside of the tire??? I am trying to understand how the whole thing becomes rigid and is not all floppy??? I wish Erik could have put up a few more pic's on the procedure.

You need to get to my name on your list because I am a little nervous about cutting $80 plus dollar tires especially when these are the only ones I have

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Originally Posted by stubs179 View Post
You will also have to open up the center of your foams. I just used a sanding drum on the end of my dremel and just go slow until the foams are a tight squeeze over the inner rim. Good luck
Thanks for the tip. This is starting to sound like a pain in the ass
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