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Old 11-09-2018, 02:26 PM   #81
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Default Re: House’s TiDe Fighter

Yessir...
Some HH goodies showed up today...
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Old 11-09-2018, 10:06 PM   #82
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Have to do some more minor machining, but looking like the SAF gears are going to fit!
Need to take .030” off the pinions, open up the ID of the motor plates .010”,
and file a few more thou out of the adjusting slot to get some pinion gap..
Always something, but happy they should fit...
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Old 11-12-2018, 02:30 AM   #83
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most satisfying thread going....best one in a long while
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Old 11-12-2018, 10:33 PM   #84
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Glued the electronics down nice and flat to the skid...
1/16” thicker and I would have been running a pass with an endmill.
Don’t worry, I will tidy up the wires...
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Old 11-13-2018, 04:25 PM   #85
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As with a lot of the tolerances of these cases, there is a fine line between function and failure. Luckily these motor plates didn’t find the latter!
Just enough material left to fit over the new motor bearings and still have functional threads...
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Old 11-13-2018, 08:47 PM   #86
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This is how the motor interface plates go on...
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Old 11-13-2018, 10:45 PM   #87
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Wiring is a little tidier. Actually a little too tight to my liking
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Old 11-14-2018, 11:15 AM   #88
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Default Re: House’s TiDe Fighter

That's never going to work those Esc's are going fuse together on 1st course.



Maybe
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Old 11-14-2018, 11:26 AM   #89
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They sure might! But I sure hope you are wrong!!!
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Old 11-15-2018, 12:50 AM   #90
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Got the axles together, rotating freely, greased, and buttoned up...
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Old 11-15-2018, 10:16 PM   #91
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Well, I got her somewhat together...
And it looks like I may be making some new links. Whee!
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Old 11-16-2018, 09:28 AM   #92
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Looking at it more I guess it isn't that bad after all, I just need to sit down with it for a while and make some more adjustments to find out where I am at...
First smack with the tape measure and it is a 1/4" short. Well I am not putting Jato ends on it anywhere... But I guess 1/16" out on each lower rod end would work too.
Not super happy with the case clocking either and a couple minor bends on the rear uppers are in need to clear the mount. Or take the mount to the mill. Hmm.
I am not used to looking at the 1/8" upper links, I think they are weirding my eyes out still... I have always had 3/16". What is the consensus for steering these days? 1/8" or 3/16"?
My choice is always bigger is better, but I am open to options and input... I know the 1/8" is a little more flexible but can be bent back. Do the little rod ends live?
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Old 11-16-2018, 10:22 AM   #93
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Can you just flatten out the rear lower links? It looks like a lot of bend and it will allow the rear to get caught in undercuts. I would just squeeze the bend in a vice to take some out. You can probably get close to a 1/4 inch right there. It should bring the rear motor down some too. I wouldn’t put a bend in the 1/8 uppers. With that being said, I run a 1/8 tie rod on my xr. I feel that the little bit of flex let’s the tire move around slightly and find traction while digging on to stuff. The rod ends have never broke. With that being said, my berg will most likely be 3/16 since I probably won’t be as nice to it as my xr

Last edited by Nabil; 11-16-2018 at 10:28 AM.
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Old 11-16-2018, 11:48 AM   #94
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My 1/8" bent upper chaotic Crawlers links servived years of abuse until last weekend.
Plus my rig weighs 4p 12oz 1/8 upper are fine. Steering idk but if 1/8" tie-rod servived on Nabil's rig it probably okay but I'd be scared.
If you don't like jato rodends your not going to like the rc4wd rodends in pic below. lol.

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Old 11-16-2018, 12:05 PM   #95
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Default Re: House’s TiDe Fighter

Uhhhhh...
I'll probably go with 3/16"

Thanks for the input guys.
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Old 11-17-2018, 01:41 PM   #96
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Feeling pretty good about it now...
Full Droop, Full Bump, Full Twist
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Old 11-17-2018, 04:30 PM   #97
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The front shock isn’t bottomed out yet
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Old 11-17-2018, 06:33 PM   #98
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nabil View Post
The front shock isn’t bottomed out yet
Correct you are my friend...
It backed off a little bit before I took the pic.
I am getting full unbound shock articulation,
BUT, these shocks don’t compress all the way.
It isn’t a hydro lock issue either, same when dry.
Check this out:
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Old 11-17-2018, 06:38 PM   #99
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I am thinking some shims are in order or the top of the
shaft may rupture the bladder in a hard landing...?
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Old 11-17-2018, 07:17 PM   #100
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So a spacer between the body and the spring cup
will push pretty hard on the little disc held in
by snap rings. I am thinking they should be fine
with the aluminum bodies...?
A spacer between the spring cup and the rod end
would solve that problem, but would remove the
“negative spring preload” or “spring slop” that I
usually like to have in my shocks...
Thoughts?
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