RCCrawler Forums

House · 12-01-2018, 08:40 PM

I don’t have enough of the XR10’s to weigh unfortunately,
but I am not plannng on using them anyway. I know this
probably doesn’t make a damn but of difference, but here
are the results:

House · 12-01-2018, 09:34 PM

I must say, I am starting to feel good about this car.
I know I am slower than molasses but hopefully the
time I spend on the details show... I worked on the steering
a bit more and I was able to get enough angle to make me
happy without completely redesigning it. I measured and
measured, cut, sanded, bent, adjusted, adjusted, and adjusted
some more. This is the first car I have ever had that the
steering is actually “perfect”. By that, I mean the wheels are
both straight with all of the steering trims set at 0, and both
left and right endpoints are at 137/140 hitting the steering
stops with no servo whine. I know this doesn’t really mean
anything and most people don’t give a shït, but I like it.

House · 12-01-2018, 09:38 PM

Here she is at fighting weight...
(With steel balls in 6/8 shock ends)

stubs179 · 12-02-2018, 09:24 AM

Damn, that light!

I had the same links and was very happy to go back to a single bend link. They transition the chassis to tires much better.

House · 12-02-2018, 09:46 AM

Yep, 4lbs 10.4oz with the loaded dice, loaded
knuckles, brass skid, and battery. Just about
perfect I think. I can keep it like this for slick
stuff and throw on the other weights for the
sticky stuff...
And just to verify my scale, 1.7oz as advertised.

stubs179 · 12-02-2018, 01:03 PM

I think I’m about 4lb 5oz rtr. I don’t have a brass skid though.

House · 12-02-2018, 05:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by stubs179

I don’t have a brass skid though.

Yet.

Aluminum balls and Axial ends are on.
Looks like my scale works.
This thing is ready to get scratched up!

House · 12-02-2018, 06:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by stubs179

I had the same links and was very happy to go back to a single bend link.

On order.

The drag link and tie rod reminded me how much I hate threading titanium rod.

House · 12-02-2018, 08:30 PM

Man it would sure be a lot easier if Santa’s Elves would have built it...
How many of us would like to see one of these under the tree?!

tapped-out · 12-02-2018, 08:41 PM

I'll have to settle for new Holmes Hobbies Puller team motors.

Sent from my SM-J737V using Tapatalk

Erik D_lux · 12-03-2018, 01:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by House

On order.

The drag link and tie rod reminded me how much I hate threading titanium rod.

Sorry mang, I would have done the single bends if I knew. Usually its one of those things I try to tell people about and they look at me cross eyed because they dont understand why they would want less clearance....

Do you want them 1/4 longer than standard too? Maybe 1/8" longer just to be safe and not go over?

House · 12-03-2018, 01:43 PM

All good, as you know, I have had this chassis for quite a while!
Nobody even noticed there is no star on the side since I didn't want it too flashy!

Yeah let's go 1/8", that should leave me plenty of adjustment and not too many threads showing. Thanks Erik!

WHITE-TRASH · 12-03-2018, 01:50 PM

No threads showing if you use jato length ends and drill them out for the link to fit into. Keeps the whole end stronger too.

House · 12-03-2018, 02:16 PM

That is a good idea Trashy, but for as much time as I have into these tapered
ends (stupid I know), I am going to use them come hell or high water!
Besides, I just saw two Jato ends die in Wendover!

WHITE-TRASH · 12-03-2018, 02:31 PM

Jato ends break in the solid plastic area between the end of the link and the ball. Drilling them deeper eliminates that area and adds shoulder strength. I don't get as fancy as you, I use a dremel to taper the rod ends.

I only taper modified jatos since i break revo either around the threads or around the ball.

I hope I'm wrong for your sake but I don't have high Hope's for the tapered revo ends.

House · 12-03-2018, 02:32 PM

I am sure Nabil is reading this laughing.
All this rod end swap bs to go to aluminum balls and you are using Stainless screws?!
Aluminum hardware and stripped heads scare the crap out of me still, sorry man.

House · 12-03-2018, 02:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by WHITE-TRASH

I hope I'm wrong for your sake but I don't have high hopes for the tapered revo ends.

I made a couple extra just in case, but I hope they live.
If not I will go down a different road...

WHITE-TRASH · 12-03-2018, 02:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by House

I am sure Nabil is reading this laughing.
All this rod end swap bs to go to aluminum balls and you are using Stainless screws?!
Aluminum hardware and stripped heads scare the crap out of me still, sorry man.

Black oxide is lighter and stronger than stainless. Call it a non bling middle ground.

House · 12-03-2018, 02:50 PM

I don't like it when they get rusty! LOL

WHITE-TRASH · 12-03-2018, 03:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by House

I don't like it when they get rusty! LOL

Stop putting a doll in it and driving through the streams.

12-01-2018, 08:40 PM	#141
House RCC Addict Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: The REAL Nor-Cal Posts: 1,049	Re: House’s TiDe Fighter I don’t have enough of the XR10’s to weigh unfortunately, but I am not plannng on using them anyway. I know this probably doesn’t make a damn but of difference, but here are the results: Attached Images

12-01-2018, 09:34 PM	#142
House RCC Addict Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: The REAL Nor-Cal Posts: 1,049	Re: House’s TiDe Fighter I must say, I am starting to feel good about this car. I know I am slower than molasses but hopefully the time I spend on the details show... I worked on the steering a bit more and I was able to get enough angle to make me happy without completely redesigning it. I measured and measured, cut, sanded, bent, adjusted, adjusted, and adjusted some more. This is the first car I have ever had that the steering is actually “perfect”. By that, I mean the wheels are both straight with all of the steering trims set at 0, and both left and right endpoints are at 137/140 hitting the steering stops with no servo whine. I know this doesn’t really mean anything and most people don’t give a shït, but I like it. Attached Images

12-01-2018, 09:38 PM	#143
House RCC Addict Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: The REAL Nor-Cal Posts: 1,049	Re: House’s TiDe Fighter Here she is at fighting weight... (With steel balls in 6/8 shock ends) Attached Images

12-02-2018, 09:24 AM	#144
stubs179 RCC Addict Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: Reno, Nv Posts: 1,964	Re: House’s TiDe Fighter Damn, that light! I had the same links and was very happy to go back to a single bend link. They transition the chassis to tires much better.

12-02-2018, 09:46 AM	#145
House RCC Addict Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: The REAL Nor-Cal Posts: 1,049	Re: House’s TiDe Fighter Yep, 4lbs 10.4oz with the loaded dice, loaded knuckles, brass skid, and battery. Just about perfect I think. I can keep it like this for slick stuff and throw on the other weights for the sticky stuff... And just to verify my scale, 1.7oz as advertised. Attached Images

12-02-2018, 01:03 PM	#146
stubs179 RCC Addict Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: Reno, Nv Posts: 1,964	Re: House’s TiDe Fighter I think I’m about 4lb 5oz rtr. I don’t have a brass skid though.

12-02-2018, 08:30 PM	#149
House RCC Addict Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: The REAL Nor-Cal Posts: 1,049	Re: House’s TiDe Fighter Man it would sure be a lot easier if Santa’s Elves would have built it... How many of us would like to see one of these under the tree?! Attached Images

12-02-2018, 08:41 PM	#150
tapped-out I wanna be Dave Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: here Posts: 3,042	Re: House’s Alumi-Fighter Bounty Hunter I'll have to settle for new Holmes Hobbies Puller team motors. Sent from my SM-J737V using Tapatalk

12-03-2018, 01:43 PM	#152
House RCC Addict Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: The REAL Nor-Cal Posts: 1,049	Re: House’s TiDe Fighter All good, as you know, I have had this chassis for quite a while! Nobody even noticed there is no star on the side since I didn't want it too flashy! Yeah let's go 1/8", that should leave me plenty of adjustment and not too many threads showing. Thanks Erik!

12-03-2018, 01:50 PM	#153
WHITE-TRASH I wanna be Dave Join Date: Aug 2004 Location: Tri-cities, WA Posts: 4,831	Re: House’s TiDe Fighter No threads showing if you use jato length ends and drill them out for the link to fit into. Keeps the whole end stronger too.

12-03-2018, 02:16 PM	#154
House RCC Addict Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: The REAL Nor-Cal Posts: 1,049	Re: House’s TiDe Fighter That is a good idea Trashy, but for as much time as I have into these tapered ends (stupid I know), I am going to use them come hell or high water! Besides, I just saw two Jato ends die in Wendover!

12-03-2018, 02:31 PM	#155
WHITE-TRASH I wanna be Dave Join Date: Aug 2004 Location: Tri-cities, WA Posts: 4,831	Re: House’s TiDe Fighter Jato ends break in the solid plastic area between the end of the link and the ball. Drilling them deeper eliminates that area and adds shoulder strength. I don't get as fancy as you, I use a dremel to taper the rod ends. I only taper modified jatos since i break revo either around the threads or around the ball. I hope I'm wrong for your sake but I don't have high Hope's for the tapered revo ends. Last edited by WHITE-TRASH; 12-03-2018 at 02:40 PM.

12-03-2018, 02:32 PM	#156
House RCC Addict Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: The REAL Nor-Cal Posts: 1,049	Re: House’s TiDe Fighter I am sure Nabil is reading this laughing. All this rod end swap bs to go to aluminum balls and you are using Stainless screws?! Aluminum hardware and stripped heads scare the crap out of me still, sorry man.

12-03-2018, 02:50 PM	#159
House RCC Addict Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: The REAL Nor-Cal Posts: 1,049	Re: House’s TiDe Fighter I don't like it when they get rusty! LOL

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