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Old 10-23-2018, 06:45 PM   #1
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Default House’s Alumi-Fighter Bounty Hunter

Not sure if anybody but a select few visits RCC or the Berg forum,
but if you do then you can follow along and get a break from Facebook
as I play around machining some parts trying to make something cool.
I don’t consider anything crawler to be ‘vintage‘ RC, but if you don’t know
what a Ti-Fighter is I am not going to explain... and I am sure everybody
knows of Dlux knuckles and 7mm shafts with 8mm Ofna stubs. Tuff.
So here I go, trying to MRCCGA.
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Last edited by House; 11-02-2018 at 04:22 PM.
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Old 10-23-2018, 07:05 PM   #2
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Default Re: House’s TiDe Fighter

This will be good. Those axles had a lot of thought and engineering in them from the start.
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Old 10-23-2018, 07:28 PM   #3
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Default Re: House’s TiDe Fighter

Looking forward to following this thread glad to see someone still posting on RCC.
I know what Ti-fighters are but who and what's a Deluxe?
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Old 10-23-2018, 09:00 PM   #4
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Default Re: House’s TiDe Fighter

Thanks guys, I know that this isn't all that exciting since I have already
made these parts fit together on my other car and have been driving it...
With that being said I really like my car the way it is and don't want to change
it and not like it, so I figured what the heck, I will just build another one.
Besides, one can always be an emergency parts rig for the other at a comp.
Those who know me have seen that I have had some "interesting" failures
over the last few years. I think I have fixed most bugs, but since I am doing it again
I figured I would share...
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Old 10-23-2018, 10:28 PM   #5
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Default Re: House’s TiDe Fighter

No need to build a second car when you know some schmuk to steal an axle from if you break in a comp.




The axles are pretty groovy, how thin are the tubes at the case with them #BAMFA shafts?
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Old 10-23-2018, 11:11 PM   #6
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Default Re: House’s TiDe Fighter

Yeah, right!?!
I have yet to make this set, but they should be right around .047 Wall which doesn’t
seem to be too thin if you are using good material... Hopfully they hold up.
The shafts are .275 dia and the tube thrubore is .281 with a .375 OD.
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Old 10-24-2018, 05:45 AM   #7
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Default Re: House’s TiDe Fighter

Gawdammit I'd break them right at the case for sure, but I am a ham fisted moron. I tend to jump things with my pro so yea.


Erik was complaining about my motor not making any power compared to his. Then I reminded him I run 4s, kinda different ways to go about the same thing. I'll upgrade this winter and still run 4s so it'll be even dumber.
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Old 10-24-2018, 07:10 AM   #8
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Default Re: House’s TiDe Fighter

Machined aluminum and carbon fiber...that's a sexy start to a build!
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Old 10-24-2018, 01:55 PM   #9
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Default Re: House’s TiDe Fighter

Quote:
Originally Posted by JatoTheRipper View Post
Machined aluminum and carbon fiber...
Here is a little more...
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Old 10-24-2018, 06:06 PM   #10
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Default Re: House’s TiDe Fighter

If it’s anything like the other one I’m sure it will be awesome, Let me know if you need my address

Last edited by Nabil; 10-24-2018 at 06:09 PM.
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Old 10-24-2018, 09:01 PM   #11
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Default Re: House’s TiDe Fighter

Thanks man, I have always been a fan of your rigs. Always top notch.
I do need your address so I know where to send this thing for you to tune it once it's built!
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Old 10-25-2018, 11:16 AM   #12
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Default Re: House’s TiDe Fighter

I think they should all come this way, what do you think?
I know, I know, function before fashion, right?
Well maybe it will slide on the rocks better now...
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Old 10-25-2018, 04:49 PM   #13
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Default Re: House’s TiDe Fighter

Just a friendly reminder, if you want tapered rod ends just go to Dlux Fab and order the sliders for $12.
Don't take the time to machine them. I did this over 6 years ago and forgot how miserable those little ******* are...
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Last edited by House; 10-25-2018 at 04:52 PM.
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Old 10-25-2018, 05:25 PM   #14
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Default Re: House’s TiDe Fighter

I couldn't keep revo ends alive so I switched to jato length from rpm. A quick trim with a dremel and a little drilling with a 3/16" bit so there is a shoulder over the link keeping the transition to threads strong and they're solid.

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Old 10-25-2018, 05:48 PM   #15
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Default Re: House’s TiDe Fighter

Nice, I will check them out, thanks.
As far as standard Jato ends I will never use them on a lower link after watching two fail back to back last month...
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Old 10-25-2018, 05:56 PM   #16
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Default Re: House’s TiDe Fighter

Just my 2cent I've had good luck when using jato rod ends.
Out of curiosity who broke 2 jato rod ends back to back at BOTW?

Last edited by tapped-out; 10-25-2018 at 06:00 PM.
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Old 10-25-2018, 05:58 PM   #17
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Default Re: House’s TiDe Fighter

Why aluminum skid instead of brass skid?
bTW skid looks good polished.
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Old 10-25-2018, 06:03 PM   #18
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Default Re: House’s TiDe Fighter

Quote:
Originally Posted by tapped-out View Post
Just my 2cent I've had good luck when using jato rod ends.
Out of curiosity who broke 2 jato rod ends back to back at BOTW?
Dooley did. His new car was a bit short so he used two Jato's to get it out to spec.
Broke one on course, thought it was a fluke, swapped it out, broke the new one,
went back to Revo ends and finished the day! Maybe a fluke? Who knows. My kinda luck!
Maybe my curse is finally broken and he contracted it!
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Old 10-25-2018, 07:33 PM   #19
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Default Re: House’s TiDe Fighter

I've had to source as strong as parts as possible and the rpm jato trick has proven itself on my bomber so I call it good. just need to set the drill depth correct so you don't drill too deep and pull the few threads left. I did exactly that and pulled an end off the tie rod. Shoved it back together and finished the course but I got lucky it held.


As for Dooley breaking them I'm betting the links were bent so the jato ends saw an angular load and not the typical push pull along their length. Go ahead, ask ke how I fingered that one out...
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Old 10-25-2018, 09:16 PM   #20
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Default Re: House’s TiDe Fighter

Yep, single bend lowers. Blew the thread right out the side...
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