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Old 09-11-2011, 05:28 PM   #101
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Yeah I have run 3s on the AE-2 ESC but it's perfect with 2s LiPo. Either way I have 8 2s LiPos , 2 5000mah 40c and 6 4000mah 25c. That's plenty for the day since I'm good with 2 of my 3s 2200's and plenty of 2s's. Either way I'm down for lettin a fellow crawler use anything I have.
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Old 09-11-2011, 08:54 PM   #102
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It's nice but behind ucf is a killer spot to bash.... It got everything but rocks....

I live by the university and I go there a lot....
where behind, I worked on campus so i "kinda" now the area?

I actually went out there after the drift meet I went over to the rocks and had some fun rolling the honcho several times down some piles. It didnt do bad at all. I also saw the little trail thats to the left? is there more around there?

question **off topic**

The stock esc has a lipo cut off?
and Is the motor waterproof? I did replace the servo already with the traxxas high torque digi waterproof i had laying around, and balloned the esc and light box am I good to hit some puddels?
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Old 09-11-2011, 09:12 PM   #103
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The stock esc has a lipo cut off?
and Is the motor waterproof? I did replace the servo already with the traxxas high torque digi waterproof i had laying around, and balloned the esc and light box am I good to hit some puddels?
yeah the ESC that comes with the RTR kits have a cut off built in and is rated to handle 2s lipos. like I mentioned, some run 3s on them, but it's only a matter of time before that will send the ESC up in smoke I don't really plan on going to Lipos though until I go brushless with a system that can handle 3s though

sounds like you've got the electronics waterproofed. if you're still running the stock brushed Axial motor, it's fine in the water. but what about the axles and transmission? if water gets into those, it'll rust up the bearings and everything if you don't tare them apart and clean them pretty soon after the water run. the best and easiest way to waterproof those is to just open them up and pack some marine grease in them. just don't put so much in around the actual gears to that it causes drag
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Old 09-12-2011, 02:57 PM   #104
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the best and easiest way to waterproof those is to just open them up and pack some marine grease in them. just don't put so much in around the actual gears to that it causes drag
sweet whats the best one to use? the stuff from wal mart ok? I guess Ill be trying it out later today and tearning it apart this week too.
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Old 09-12-2011, 06:38 PM   #105
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sweet whats the best one to use? the stuff from wal mart ok? I guess Ill be trying it out later today and tearning it apart this week too.
as long as it says it's marine grade and water proof it should work fine. it doesn't cost much; a couple bucks for a whole tube. but you wont use a whole lot

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Old 09-12-2011, 09:44 PM   #106
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I should be good to go this weekend with the new batteries I bought. I ordered a Traxxas EZ-Peak charger designed for these batteries last night and it says it should get here Wed or Thur. Regardless of when it comes in though, I don't have to solder a Deans on it. I used one of the Traxxas ends I removed when putting Deans on the batteries and made an adapter all I have to do is plug it in!








I'll water proof the batteries tomorrow. I need to pick up some supplies for that.


I'm kinda excited about this weekend. I need to get the 'ol girl on the rocks already!
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Old 09-13-2011, 03:41 PM   #107
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I'll water proof the batteries tomorrow. I need to pick up some supplies for that.
!
never though about that. Are lipos water safe? im running traxxas ends on everything i own dont know if that matters
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Old 09-13-2011, 06:25 PM   #108
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the ends you don't have to worry about so much. it's not like the batteries are carrying a high enough voltage to short out across water (unless it's salt water, but then you've got other things to worry about if you're in salt water ). but you do want to try to seal up the casing around the battery cells. use some silicone and get enough around the base of the wires going into the battery, and put a bead around the seam of the two halves if it's the plastic contained battery type, or just around the ends if it's the plastic shrink wrap type battery. I like to encase mine in some good electrical tape too after the silicone cures to act as kind of a "first defense". it also keeps things from snagging on the silicone just right and ripping it off.


oh and by the way, it's really hard to type, much less use a mouse, with a splint on your right wrist, lol. I'm hoping I'll be able to go a hole day without this stupid thing this weekend...
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Old 09-13-2011, 08:50 PM   #109
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So i took the truck out in the mud and it didnt go so well. I hit a good puddle and it stopped so I got it out and tried moving and nothing. I could here that it was sounding like it was going to move, but wouldnt (i pulled the body and could see that the esc woudl light when reversing but nothing when going forward,) pushed the truck and started going. So hit throttle drove around it and did well, so now i was wondering was it a one time thing just didnt like me abusing her, and it happened again, same thing bumped and its going. buddy says "water is getting between the brushes" and its not working until you push it and then it goes fine.

What do i need to do to fix this? do i need a new motor now?
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Old 09-13-2011, 08:59 PM   #110
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sounds more like sand got in the motor... try to keep the open brushed motors out of the sand or you'll have issues like that. just water shouldn't cause any problems though

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Old 09-14-2011, 10:10 AM   #111
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well holy crap that was fast. I just came home from lunch and found my charger on my doorstep I'm charging one of them now to run this afternoon and see how well the new batteries work out
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Old 09-14-2011, 01:44 PM   #112
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Well I hope we can get some more people out there this Sunday. it would be nice to get a few trucks out there runnin. Its always more fun when there are more trucks climbing the rocks. Cant wait, should be fun. Im just fiinishing up repairing the Dingo's driveline and the Rubiconcho is all set to go. Replaced the STRC High Clearence links with some homebrew 8-32 rods and Im good to go.
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Old 09-14-2011, 02:58 PM   #113
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I'm such a slacker... I haven't even cleaned my rigs yet

I know I keep saying i'm tryin to save money, but I'm gonna have to build a scaler some time soon. Gotta have something to go fast and play in the mud

I'll still be back out on sunday with the berg and probably the ax10 too.
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Old 09-14-2011, 04:38 PM   #114
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I plan to be there... Rig fixed or not.... Worst case, I swap motors and deal with the difs and tranny when I have more time to break it down and fix...
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Old 09-14-2011, 05:47 PM   #115
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Well the 2 rigs are now ready for some work! Cant wait til Sunday!









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Old 09-14-2011, 06:16 PM   #116
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hey you wouldn't happen to have a spare drive shaft would you?

just took mine out for a test drive and noticed two things... 1) I THINK I need a new ESC already... reverse is almost nonexistent; no power at all (and I verified that with a multimeter too; only gets about 4 volts under full throttle, and it fluctuates still between 3.5 and 5...) while forward is fine, although it seems like the power is delayed if the throttle is put wide open right away. and 2) the stock plastic drive shafts are crap... not sure what I'm going to do about this before Sunday, but I'm kinda glad it happen today 5 minutes into a test drive rather than when I got out there all ready to crawl...







that was the front; the rear looks like it's about to give out as well...
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Old 09-14-2011, 06:27 PM   #117
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Which end is it, the female shaft or the male shaft. I have 2 spare male ones but the females were cut to make a longer shaft for the extended wheel base. Let me know. I think some others use a Traxxas shaft but Im not sure which one it is... try and do a search and figure out which part it is.
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Old 09-14-2011, 06:37 PM   #118
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it's the female end

but the other end is pretty messed up at the yoke too... so even if I replace just this side, the other side wouldn't last long...

are there any local shops around there that stock SCX10 parts? or possibly even option parts like metal ones?
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Old 09-14-2011, 07:23 PM   #119
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There's a hobbytown just a couple minutes away. They dont stock a lot of axial parts, but stampede shafts work almost perfectly on a ax10/scx10. Superior is out in casselberry and is probably a better bet.

I have 2-3 spare complete drive shafts in my toolbox.

Honestly I dunno how y'all keep tearing them up though, I ran my stockers for almost a year before going MIP, and I really don't take it easy on my rigs
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Old 09-14-2011, 07:27 PM   #120
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There's a hobbytown just a couple minutes away. They dont stock a lot of axial parts, but stampede shafts work almost perfectly on a ax10/scx10. Superior is out in casselberry and is probably a better bet.

I have 2-3 spare complete drive shafts in my toolbox.

Honestly I dunno how y'all keep tearing them up though, I ran my stockers for almost a year before going MIP, and I really don't take it easy on my rigs
stampede 4x4? or regular 2wd? I have mips on the rear of my electric 4x4 pede but its broken if I could "barrow" them that would be nice....
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