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Thread: Szczerba's JK (Minus some doors)

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Old 06-13-2011, 09:18 PM   #1
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Default Szczerba's JK (Minus some doors)

I bought an R1 when they first came out and really liked the axles. So, a year or so later I worked my way back to some.
I wanted a long wheelbase, low ridin', 2.2, 4WD steer,high clearance beast.

Here is the start of something along those lines.
Thanks to the guys that helped with some questions I had. Eric113, Generis and probably some more I forgot.

I am going to set it up with a 540 motor and 11.1v lipo, we'll see if that will be enough power. Can't go with a bigger motor with this chassis setup.

JK body, no doors, full cage, interior (more to come on that)
G-Made R1 axles: TLT CVD's are ready to drop in the front end, just waiting on bearings. TLT's will be going in the rear later.
GCM Cross Canyon Chassis with transfer case
Kyosho Dog bone (you can flip the motor to the front or rear) run a 113mm dog bone or a ~78mm dog bone.
2.2 RC4WD Boggers
Motoworx wheels (might get replaced)
13.5" Wheelbase
11" Trackwidth
Good servo, probably a Futaba S9157, HiTec 7950TH or the like.
Holmes Hobbies BR-XL (Won at ECC, Thanks!)
BEC for the rear steer servo.

....

Got the chassis together and liked what I saw. Nice quality. I used 145mm links on the lowers using the longer revo push rods and Jato ends. Right at 13.5" wheelbase.
I like the trans mount. You remove the stock Axial trans plate and then bolt the transmission/motor to the GCM setup.
I had to modifiy the skid, drill through it to make sure the transfer case would stay.
Last picture is proposed steering setup but for Axial axles and not 13.5" wb. See next post for my redo.

Do to the extra width of the GCM chassis, I'll have to run a droop setup for now. I tried making now lower shock mounts but the width jacks with the shock placement.

Tips, comments, suggestions?
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Last edited by Szczerba; 06-13-2011 at 09:36 PM.
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Old 06-13-2011, 09:33 PM   #2
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In the picture above, the steering geometry will not work for this setup. And the servo gets into the motor quick!

My steering fix.
I am going to try a 4-link setup. I have gotten my XJ to steer great with a 4-link and no panhard bar/3 link. Little to no bump steer.

I turned the GCM mount 90 degrees and started drilling. Worked good. Nothing hits or binds. I will make a cross brace that will tie from the servo mount to the other side of the chassis. All the electronics will be up front, under the hood.
I had to trim the stock output on the trans to get some clearance. No biggie, a beef ouput is on the transfer case side.

Like I said, CVD's ready to drop in. Waiting on bearings.
Driveshafts will get upgraded too.

Rough stance below. Body will be a touch higher.

Everything is still in semi-mock up. Go easy!
Tips, comments, suggestions?
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Last edited by Szczerba; 06-13-2011 at 09:38 PM.
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Old 06-13-2011, 09:41 PM   #3
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Wow this turning out too cool!

The last pics are badass looking.

I get bumpsteer with my FJ 4 link front no pan hand bar. How did you dial it out ?
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Old 06-13-2011, 09:49 PM   #4
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Quote:
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Wow this turning out too cool!

The last pics are badass looking.

I get bumpsteer with my FJ 4 link front no pan hand bar. How did you dial it out ?
Thanks. Still deciding on body ride height. Low but not too low. Rear is dove tailed in about 1.5" too. Setup for 4WS later. Gotta clear those 5.7" boggers!

Bump steer is very slight, at full droop out. Not enough for me to care.
I just tried to get the drag link as close to parallel with the steering rod. Vertically parallel, that is.
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Old 06-14-2011, 01:44 PM   #5
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I had good luck laying the servo down across the front of my chassis's.( if you have enough room on the front of the frame rails, depending were body is gonna set also.) That motor setup toward front is gonna make things tight!!!
If it has half the detail of you last rig I bet this is gonna turn out great. I like them JK's!!
I have been building a real one.
Gonna build me another one to match my real on sometime soon.

Last edited by rottenbelly; 06-14-2011 at 01:48 PM.
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Old 06-14-2011, 01:56 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Szczerba View Post
Tips, comments, suggestions?
it looks kinda wide..?


On the droop... I don't think that I have seen a 1.9 or 2.2 JK with 80-90mm scaler shocks that was fully sprung that looked right to me. Most have been droop.
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Old 06-14-2011, 02:10 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rottenbelly View Post
I had good luck laying the servo down across the front of my chassis's.( if you have enough room on the front of the frame rails, depending were body is gonna set also.) That motor setup toward front is gonna make things tight!!!.
Dern smart right there. See pictures below.
Might work out. Just quickly mounted it up to see. Just enough clearances with the motor facing rear. Man, why didn't I think of that.


Quote:
Originally Posted by helhedded View Post
it looks kinda wide..?

On the droop... I don't think that I have seen a 1.9 or 2.2 JK with 80-90mm scaler shocks that was fully sprung that looked right to me. Most have been droop.
I am running Axial offset right now, so there is room to narrow up. just going wide for now to see how much the rear will need to be pulled in for 4WS in the future. I thought wider was better? It's at 11" now. I think it scales out somewhat. Squint your eyes a bit.

I am not opposed to a droop setup, just wanted to try to get full length sprung setup under it but it won't happen without some clever fabricating. I tried making some lower shock/link mounts without luck.
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Last edited by Szczerba; 06-14-2011 at 02:12 PM.
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Old 06-14-2011, 03:11 PM   #8
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Looking good Shane. I'm glad to see this. I can't wait to get mine done.
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Old 06-14-2011, 03:13 PM   #9
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Looks like your on to something now!! Mounted the servo in my last 3 rigs I built and sold across like that and the steering throw was way better than vertical mount.
It was hard to get it maxed out both ways in the other spot.

Maybe a 80 mm shock with a 50/50 setup??
I ran my old jk like that for awhile and if it high centered it was nice to have that droop to help pull over something.
I have a extra interior if you flub something up and need a spare!
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Old 06-17-2011, 09:28 PM   #10
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Sanded down the massive internal rib on these boggers. Really helped soften the tread area up. Small lugs will be cut sometime.
Mounted them on berg offset wheels. went from 11" wide to 10.5" wide.
Hood Mount done up front.
Cut and shut in the rear seats. No leg room!
Interior floor will be dropped and side of seats will be boxed in.
Pulled the rear in. Will have a drop bed/box area behind rear seats.
Roof and doors will be further cut, rough cut for now to keep some of the strength/form while working on interior.
This is the final stance I am going for.
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Old 06-17-2011, 10:30 PM   #11
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Coming along nice Shane.
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Old 06-20-2011, 09:08 PM   #12
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worked on the rear bed area. Futaba servo box.
started boxing in the hole where the console was.
still pretty rough looking now but it will clean up.
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Old 06-21-2011, 12:22 AM   #13
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Veeerrr niceee!
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Old 06-21-2011, 08:38 PM   #14
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Boxed in seats and finished up console.
Floor will be dropped to be even with bottom of doors.
Still lots of fine sanding to do.

Ordered steel driveshafts, aluminum knuckles, aluminum 7 Deg C's, aluminum shock mounts
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Old 06-23-2011, 09:35 PM   #15
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Default Steering

Call a few guys for some TLT knuckle dimensions. Thanks Eric113 and rubiredunlmtd. and Chino63 Chino63's R1 for the CVD mod.

Bought some RCP TLT Knuckles. http://www.rcpcrawlers.com/product.p...&cat=17&page=1 $14
Bought some RCP TLT CVD's. Pieced them together from the RCP website ~$45
Aluminum 7 deg G-Made C's, the extra caster is nice.
Aluminum shock/link mounts.

Mega steering now. Havn't tested it yet. The RCP knuckles are just shorter than the G-Made C's but not by much. Used some shims to get closer. And i had to some some larger inner diameter bearings.

The RCP knuckles are shorter on one side (in the C) so we'll have to see how that works with the CVD shaft not completely true with the knuckle (ie the screw hole area height). See second picture, the lower shank is just shorter than the upper shank. Not binding right now, everything moves freely.

First picture is stock steering. So weak.............

Last picture is after modifications. Will steer further but need to play with the drag link/servo horn setup..It gets into the shocks before the CVD's limit
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Last edited by Szczerba; 06-24-2011 at 06:00 AM.
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Old 06-24-2011, 04:17 AM   #16
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looking good shane!

glad i could help.
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Old 06-24-2011, 04:32 AM   #17
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I love re-engineering. Great job.

Wes
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Old 06-24-2011, 06:52 AM   #18
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Looks good Shane. Glad those RCP knuckles work.
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Old 06-24-2011, 01:04 PM   #19
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Good job on the steering jabroskihammer!

so now that you have the front worked out, are you still going to do the rear?
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Old 06-27-2011, 09:08 AM   #20
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Quote:
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Good job on the steering jabroskihammer!

so now that you have the front worked out, are you still going to do the rear?
Yes, in due time.
Shipped the JK off for tube work this morning.
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